The Flat-Pack Fightstick - An affordable pre-cut kit to serve the Australian scene (56k warning!)

The detail obviously won’t be as fine when laser-cutting ply compared to that hand-cut cork art, but over the surface of a stick it’ll look pretty schweet. It ain’t cheap though, a four layer relief in 400x300 costs about $90 in materials and laser time! It could cost even more with acrylic support sheets if you wanted to have large voids (where a clear sheet is cut to fill the hole to prevent flexing of the top surface).

Conversely, printing a couple of art sheets, cutting them, and sandwiching them between a couple of stacked acrylic layers to create a foreground/background effect costs half that.

I’m really no artist, i’m a builder, but if you’ve got creativity and the wherewithal to create the right vector files, i could put together stuff like this:

That’s clearly quite an expensive piece, combining cutting of different materials and etching, and many layers of it. You’d probably want to keep it to four or so layers for an arcade stick, or the thickness of the piece will start to intrude on the stick shaft length.

I’ll have some simple stuff to show off when the next cutting run is done, but it takes me a while to art. :stuck_out_tongue:

@JoyBoyDesu If you want to discuss a commission, flick me a PM. The plain small case, with raw aluminium edging, acrylic, and mounting hardware is $110 + up to $20 shipping within Aus.

The cost of the art is variable based on the design as stated above, but I’ll be able to cover some costs since I’m still setting up the production side.

Incidentally, here’s a t-shirt art layer:

http://i.imgur.com/mg6xPBI.jpg

I didn’t have any sacrificial FGC-appropriate shirts, but you get the idea. Fabric, leather, wallpaper… a carpet offcut; anything can be used to generate a bit of visual texture.

Remove the clear layer and harder wearing materials can be used directly. You could have a leather-topped stick to go with that writing desk.

Hey, I don’t know if you remember me, but I asked you on reddit some question about your design back in the days ! I ended up using your tutorials to build my stick, so thanks again for your great work !
(I wanted a swappable hitbox/standard layout and it worked great with your ikea frame idea)

Yeah yeah, i remember that! That conversation is what led to this current design.

If you build this case with two bottom plates instead of a top and bottom, then add a top plate on, it self-centres and can be clipped down by the frames. This can be hot-swappable.

You stick(s) look great btw, love that Dudley!

Just got my second run of stuff done, with a few new bits thrown in!

First up are these etched plywood button inserts:

http://i.imgur.com/ttdhS6e.jpg

They’re cut from the same material as the case itself which makes the grain line up perfectly, and it keeps their cost down to $5 per set. The 4.5mm thickness is way too much for the clear Sanwa OBSC but is actually perfect for Seimitsu PS-14-K once you discard the stock white insert:

http://i.imgur.com/6b0fb7c.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fdIEZ6s.jpg

I don’t have any clear PS-14’s on hand, but the inserts look pretty great under the smoke buttons:

http://i.imgur.com/0z5GTRo.jpg

cubits, I messaged you and got no reply. I would like to order one of the small cases.

@Cubits are you ready for OHN15?

Do you need a reseller?

@WoobiE Sorry bout that, had to check some stuff out.

Now, the next thing addresses the problem of getting a mirror-like paint finish on plywood. Typically this involves several layers of several products, lots of sanding and polishing, and an inordinate amount of time.

Or you could just clad the whole job in high-gloss acrylic and have a durable, perfect finish in minutes!

http://i.imgur.com/TcFH1N0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fs3xH0R.jpg

And it’s easily popped onto the case during construction.

http://i.imgur.com/iOiZOjQ.jpg

It can be used to hide the Neutrik adapter screw-heads, for an even more minimal look. You could also still mount the Neutrik externally if that’s your bag.

http://i.imgur.com/m3LETBL.jpg

I have a whole slew of colour options available, with everything from basic solid colours, to two-tone, mirror, frosted, or translucents. i’ll put up samples of what i’ve got in a bit. Here’s smoke grey, which lets the wood grain show, adding a little visual texture. This can also be combined with painting the case to give it a little more pop.

The full cladding kit (four walls and bottom panel) costs $45 for the Bigly, or $35 for the Pika. Etching can also be added to any surface if you want to throw some graphics on there, for a nominal extra charge (varies with complexity and size).

Here’s a little Tekken case, built for @JoyBoyDesu a couple of weeks ago:

http://i.imgur.com/b1tx3AU.jpg

Simple printed designs front and back, to match the Sanwa light blue. Glossy Kodak prints in this size are $5 a pop and look great.

http://i.imgur.com/V074p5P.jpg

A cheeky bit of etching underneath, like labelling your undies. It’s an interesting alternative to a print, and can be creatively mixed/matched with prints, transparencies, or acrylic etching. $20

http://i.imgur.com/NQsk1uq.jpg

Clean interior is pretty tight in this size. The Sanwa screw-in rings are super wide, and juuuust clear each other for the sega/noir layouts. For Vewlix you actually have to go with either Seimitsus or snap-ins.

This case also uses the more economical “pass under” USB cable routing, instead of a Neutrik passthrough.

http://i.imgur.com/fptRhn6.jpg

It’s simple, accessible, and the cable still stows cleanly in the frame recess.

Got my stick from @Cubits yesterday. It’s awesome. Well made, looks beautiful, was plug and play and came in a good amount of bubble rap to make sure it survived transit intact.

That’s some good stuff right there @Cubits