Thanks for the kind words, that’s actually a Six Axis Adapter for a PS3 1st Party PCB. Makes it bluetooth, B/C and works with Brook super converters wirelessly as well.
Ah for weights, now I get it. Yeah I figured expanding foam might be a messy job, always looking for that next idea you know…
Tried the copper tape. No go. Going to try to solder to a trace down the line. But not to sure how. This is my last chance and don’t want to fu@k it up again lol. Would really appreciate some info and pics or vids on how to do so.
sand down the trace a bit to expose the copper line then when exposed use the copper tape and then do you soldering, you still have that hole trace to work with if you mess it up, worse case scenario tap into the actual pin from the chip, you can do this!
PS: You maybe able to do it without the copper tape but you’d be soldering to a very fine trace, the copper tape will give you more room to work with. Also set your solder to 350 at the most, if using a plug in solder gun with no adjustments, make sure is under 30watts, anything higher is going to keep giving you problems.
Installed a MC cthuhul instead. Forgive my spelling. By soldering the ps2 cable directly to the pcb with alot of help from the internet . It works a treat. Still ugly as f#ck under the hood but plays great. Proud of myself as I knew absolutely nothing before I started. Many thanks guy for all your help. Will upload photos of them soon. Might start a self build project from scratch in the near future. The Area 51 empty case looks sick.
All new sanwa buttons with silencers, kept original hori joystick in with new 2 lb spring with sanwa shaft cover and dust cover. Had to file down the joystick opening to give the shaft cover room to move to stop it grinding against the sides. Kept the look of the stick original too. Oh and cherry 44x micro switches for up,down,left,right. Might put in a good quality hori joystick as I’ve already gone way over budget anyways. What the hey!
Is this the joy stick you in your stick.
Thinking of putting them into both my sticks as I’ve growing to not nice the original ones anymore due to noise when the actuator hits the square gate. Sounds hollow . Hard to explain.
If it the same . What are they like?
They are very light compared to JLFs, the square feels bigger too, however they are very precise and perform well under pressure. Still prefer the JLF but it’s nice to have alternatives. There’s also a octagonal gate made by Kowal that makes it really nice. 2LB spring couldn’t hurt either.
Going to try a cheap fix 1st before I order the new hori joy stick. IT’S CRUDE!! I’m going to push on some rubber “U channel” around the edge of the gate where the actuator is hitting. If it works and I’m happy with it and doesn’t affect the motion of the joy stick I’ll glue it on. It should make my dead zone smaller too but needs
Crude is a understatement. Going ahead with the new hori joy stick. I know how to wire it to the t5 stock pcb but my problem is that a don’t know how to go about wiring it to the replacement MC cthulhu “forgive my spelling” in my other t5 stick with all the daisy chains. Need help.
Got rubber washers and put them on the screws between the hori stock joy stick and the mounting plate to stop the noise travelling up the mounting plate and though the top panel. It works a treat. Saved myself £ 30 per stick. # cheapfix .Now my 2 Hori t5 are as quiet if not quieter than my te2+ and my Dragon