Switch-less USB selector for PS3+360 "Imp": Re-Design Underway, Input appreciated

Aha, great to hear that we’ll be able to set up either system as the default, I only want to add ps3 support to my stick in case I end up anywhere that it’s my only option, but I don’t own one. I’ve always been a fan of white pcb’s, but I think anything other than your traditional green would be fine.

YESH!!! I LOVE YOU TOODLES! I don’t have to buy a dpdt switch!
Let me on the deal whenever you have them in stock.
Rep Added!

Add me to the list as well! I WANT AN IMP TOO! Thanks Toodles and zombie cpt!

The Cthulhu doesn’t have a tournament mode. However, installed in a TE or SE stick it will also benefit from the tournament lock. If you do the mod so tournament lock blocks Select and Start, those too will still have the benefit of the lock with a Cthulhu installed.
Doing a tournament mode type situation like the UPCB has isn’t really feasible from a technical standpoint without expanding the imp way past it’s purpose. It is a good idea, but can’t be easily done without making the wiring and setup a ton harder.

There are a couple of reasons why, none of them technical.

  1. If I made a board like that specifically for dual pcb situations, then I’d really have to support dual pcb stuff with damn near everything. That’s a whole lot of headache I don’t need. Despite the fact I try to make things as easy as possible, dual pcb mods are advanced mods, and people (somewhat rightly) would feel I would be responsible if I made a board specifically for that purpose. As it is, the Cthulhu is for PS3, and it does it’s job very well, and although it CAN be used in a dual pcb setup, it isn’t meant for a dual pcb setup, and the responsibility of getting it working that way falls on the end user, not me. I’m busy as all hell has it is.
  2. It’d dilute things. Folks are confused enough with just the DISABLE_HOME option on the Cthulhu, and adding a third board to the mix would just make things worse.
  3. Money. The larger the order of boards and parts, the cheaper everything is. If I add another rev of the Cthulhu board, I’d either have to discontinue the existing line, or up the price to cover the costs of the exact same board that is being ordered in smaller quantities.

So, no. The Cthulhu remains unchanged with no plans to change anything. I prefer to think of them like Legos. The Imp and the Cthulhu do very separate, very distinct things, and can be plugged together easy.

There will definitely be mounting holes, so I have every faith that that solution will continue to work.

Now, where inside a madcatz stick should this go? I seriously have no idea, especially when the Cthulhu fits so damn well under the Guide/Turbo/LED board.

A couple of other notes.
-I’ve think I’ve got the idea of how I want this to work all fleshed out. There will be spots for Select and Start on the board, and a solder jumper like the USB Only jumper on the Cthulhu. If you want Select and Start to control the Guide button, no problem; solder the jumper. Otherwise, just ignore the Start and Select points. The Select+Start=Guide functionality can be done standalone; you can add this to a stick with just one common ground xbox360 pcb in it and get the Start+Select=Guide working and just ignore the USB stuff.
-I found an even smaller and cheaper PIC to do the job, the 12F508.
-Since we’re talking uber simple stuff from the PIC, I can use the 32kHz speed. Total power draw; about 10uA. Thats 1/100th of a single milliAmp. A PUNY amount of power compared to the USB boards, about 1/1,000th of the power used by either one of the board. 1/2,000th of the current used by a normal LED.
-Pseudocode is written, so getting the code should be easy. Reading up on config bits will probably take longer. Here’s the pseudo code I’ll be working off of for those interested in the boring details



# need to determine if FalseG is connected to Guide.
	if !Guide goto Guide_low_no_AND
:guide_high:
	#guide is high. Determine if we need to be using the AND gate functionality
       #since FalseG and Guide are connected if and only if we need the AND gate 
      #stuff, drop FalseG low and see if Guide reads as low
	set FalseG low
	delay
	if !Guide, goto AND_gate_needed
:guide_high_no_AND:
	turn on 4066 outputs for secondary mode
	sit and spin.

:guide_low_no_AND:
#easy. Guide button is pressed, so therefore we don't have to worry about the AND gate
#shenanigans. Turn on the 4066 outputs and sit and spin
	Turn on 4066 outputs for Secondary mode.
	sit and spin

:AND_gate_needed:
	Set FalseG back to high impedence
	delay
	if !Start and !Select goto AND_secondary
:AND_primary
	set 4066n outputs for primary mode
	goto AND_loop

:AND_secondary:
	set 4066n outputs for secondary mode. 
:AND_loop:
	if Start goto No_FalseGuide
	if Select goto No_FalseGuide
	set Guide as low output
	delay
	goto AND_loop

:No_FalseGuide:
	set Guide as input
	delay
	goto AND_loop
 


Need feedback on:

  1. Where on the TE or SE should this screw down? I’d like to use existing screws and posts, and at least two of them. The Turbo/Guide/LED board is out because the Cthulhu fits there pretty nice.
  2. Should I put out points for possible LED connections, showing which system was selected?

Since you’ve received your TE Stick would it be possible to do an instructable on installing a cthulu with the imp board on the 360 ver. of the stick? I really like how you do your mods since they’re very clean and practical.

what’s the advantage of this versus a USB hub? I’m planning on doing the dual 360/ps3 mod on my old HRAP1, and trying to figure out different multiconsole strategies.

No preferrence on color, but black would fit my color scheme for this new stick.

As for mounting, I don’t own a TE stick or a norris stick, but so far it seems that the most common place I’ve seen pcb’s is the bottom right of the control panel under the buttons.

I kinda like having the dedicated guide button, but that’s just me.

I haven’t even made the thing yet, and as slow as the cthulhu-in-madcatz ones are going, I’m not comfortable promising anything. It’ll be stupid simple though.

I still haven’t seen a hub used after all of this time, so I don’t really have an answer for that. The only thing I can say for sure is that using a DPDT switch or an Imp would be better for the MC Cthulhu; theres a good chance PSX support wont work if its plugged into a hub.

A dedicated Guide/Home button is better all around, but I had pins to spare, so it seemed like a good use of the addition pins; a little added possibile functionality without affecting the core function.

has anyone done a ps3 > ps3/360 mod on the madcatz sticks yet? I just did one last night, im glad i only got one order on that job, it took forever!

This looks super rad. Can I preorder one? :wink: How much you think it will run for one anyway?

Color doesn’t matter to me really, how often do you show the insides?
I prefer a dedicated guide/home button as well.

Weird question: how do you program these boards? I’ve been writing a lot of assembly level stuff for x86 so I’m kinda curious.

I’ve been planning to dual PCB mod a couple of sticks this month. I’m glad you’ve come up with this now so that I can use it. :smiley:

Here’s the layout I’m currently thinking about.
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9129/implayout.png

The outgoing USB cable gets soldered to the very top, or a USB jack is put there so a cable can be plugged in. The 1’s are the primary default sub wires, the 2’s are the one selected if the Guide button is held down. There’s a solder jumper on the bottom of the board if the Start+Select=Guide functionality is needed. The tab with the hole on the left is for mounting on the end of the distribution block in a MadCatz stick.

If anyone has feedback, now’s the time to speak up.

Looks good to me, can’t wait!

:woot:

Can’t wait for this to come out! Keep up the good work and I want one asap! jk take your time.

what kind of art would you be screen printing on there? i may be able to help with the art aspect if it is in my range.

contact me if i can help: hardkorie@hotmail.com

I’d prefer another mounting hole in the other corner. I’m sure the board is small enough to be mounted as it is, but I’d feel better if there was some support on that corner too.

Same here, the space is there, might as well use it. How does it interact with the Cthulu?

You’re absolutely right. How’s this look?
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/6048/implayout2.png

:tup: