Well I purchased a PS2 scart cable for 10 dollars on ebay (including shipping), I guess I’ll see how that works out when I get it.
the Xbox supports it via autodetect as well.
Ok, in the middle of making my supergun, for the console converter. I’ve got 2 empty jamma edge connectors, one AT PSU, and a shit load of reading material.
So what I need (from what I can tell)
Supergun
10a fuse
2a fuse
2x fuse holders
stripboard
shitload of color wire
was thinking of dismantling my old PSX for its rgb to ntsc chip but I’ll just get one from JROK, that way I still have the RGB passthrough should I get an RGB monitor in the future.
solder
buttons (both happ and sanwa)
joystick (both happ competition, p360, and sanwa 4 and 8 gates)
cable ties
heat shrink wire covers
and possibly speakers
cps2 kickharness
for the PS2 to jamma converter
AV Scart cable (in the mail)
jamma fingerboard
controller PCBs (probably from a dismantled multitap will work, if not then some PS1 dualshock controlelrs)
and some sort of auxilery harness for the extra buttons for the PSX pads.
Does that sound to be about it?
Though is there anyway to get those sound wires from the jamma harness to regular RCA audio jacks? I read that they’re already amped so that might pose a problem unless I put them through more fuses perhaps…
You really aughtta stick to one project at a time or youll never finish either.
But, to answer the questions asked:
Does that sound to be about it? Yup. Superguns are stupid simple pieces of equipment. Depending on the PSU, those fuses may be unneeded.
Though is there anyway to get those sound wires from the jamma harness to regular RCA audio jacks? As you already mentioned, the audio to a jamma harness is amplified, which could be bad if you plugged it into your stereo’s amp. In most cases, this is a moot point: You can get unamplified (Ok to plug into your home stereo) stereo audio from elsewhere on the arcade PCB, such as the headphone jack of a NeoGeo MVS board, or the QSound RCA jacks on a CPS2 PCB. If you want to stick to jamma standard, wire up a speaker in your supergun. More fuses will not make it magically un-amplified!
For the PS2->Jamma adapter:
Scart cable is good, but you’ll still need to get the composite sync. Build the circuit on this page:
http://www.mameworld.net/pc2jamma/arc_sat2.html
Under where it says: 1x Circuit for getting Composite Sync
Multitap will NOT work as sacrificial controllers. Since you won’t be worried about converter compatibility, a regular, old fashioned, all digital PSX controller will be the cheapest ($1-$2 each at any game store) and easiest to work with.
There’s also a LOT of minor parts you’ll want to get that werent mentioned, and a lot of planning involved for both to get exactly what you want. Do you want the supergun to support standard Jamma only? Neogeo? CPS2? THere are details to each that you need to know the differences if you want to properly support them in your supergun.
planning for a majority of zn1 and zn2, but possibly cps2 (fortunately both use the same kick harness). but zn1 and 2 don’t have those RCA jacks. Which I wanted to wire up to a VCR or something similar.
But for the projects, they’re both tied together for the end project, they’re just 2 steps on accomplish said goal.
But thats for your input.
hey, has anyone bought their sanwa parts before? Are they a good seller? Their low prices worry me.
My brother bought some sanwa parts and he enjoys them greatly.
bump, I got most of the parts (except the fuse holders, and a good piece of stripe board [have one thats like it but not sure if its exactly what I needed)
Following this guide to a supergun
http://www.jabba.demon.co.uk/retroranch/building_a_jamma_test_rig.doc
For the RGB encoder, I’m following the PSX conversion guide. I just hope I do it correctly (got the same 1001 board that person used). Though you probably wouldn’t know the details on doing it would you Elvis?
Takes a bit, but they are legit, best prices on the net.
I’ve bought heaps from them. Very reliable.
Note that they require a $200 minimum when ordering (or at least they did last time I checked). So if you do an order, get together with some mates and make it a good one. You’ll save on postage that way too.
As for prices, welcome to dealing with the east. Everything costs 1/2 as much, but by the time you pay postage (and import duties if it’s a big order like the stuff I get in), you understand why stuff costs so much locally. 
I haven’t tried it myself (all my conversions are getting things to RGB to use inside a real cab, not the other way around). In the past when I’ve opened consoles, most conversion chips are clearly labelled either on the unit’s motherboard, or there’s a chip number you can look up online to get the correct pinouts.
After that, it’s a simple matter of connecting the right inputs and outputs and you’re done. About the worst thing you can do is get your R/G/B mixed up and end up with some funky colours.
elvis you got a PM related to console to jamma
Well I got a basic start on the supergun for now. I get video and audio (haven’t wired up any buttons). However the screen is rolling, and the colors are off. Guessing a problem with the comp sync, and how I wired the rgb for the PSX hack. Will record a clip of it in a couple days.
fried my psx lol
… looks like my gameboard is fried too fuck
if your screen is rolling, you may have forgotten to link all the grounds involved. that’s what happened to me in the past. lol
and btw, i’m now sure that the Super that excellentcom sells just converts composite into RGB, which makes the video quality suck balls. i think it’s possible to cut the traces and hack into the PS2 mobo to get the RGB signals from there though. i’m trying that out with my Dreamcast soon. :B
Well before I fried my PSX and gameboard (the motherboard at least is gone, hopefully the gameboard itself survived but I’m not optimistic about it).
I was playing with the video sync wire and placed it in a couple places while it was running. and I found the correct pin to put it on (was shown on the picture but was stated to be a different pin which I followed) and that gave me a stable picture but it was hell trying to solder it there, which lead to the sequence of events of frying my board…
lesson learned? When in doubt go for JROK lol.