i just got one of these sticks and the feeling is pretty terrible concerning the stick and buttons; i have competition sticks and buttons with cherry microswitches ready to go from happ.
the problem is with the buttons, the quick connectors from the don’t fit with the cherry ones, has anyone been able to remedy this issue, by either cutting the width of the connectors, or any other way. or can i purchase a cherry switch with the proper sized connectors.
as far as taking apart the clear plastic top, and the rubber molding, it seems easy enough, the rubber can come off with little effort because its not glued in. i am not keen on removing all the buttons though, but luckily it seems that the artwork can also be changed.
there are lots of things you can do. You can just solder it on or just strip the wires and even just wrap it around the connectors if you want to be ghetto, hahah. But if you want to be professional you will need a Wire Stripper, a Crimping Tool, and QuickDisconects that fit the swtichs.
bah, looks to be far more trouble than its worth. I’ll just keep my sfa stick stock and in the box and sell it on ebay in 2 years.
Besides, building your own box is much more fun.
It’s REALLY alot easier than it looks from that forum. If you go with Sanwa buttons, all you have to do is unplug the SF buttons and plug in the Sanwas…the QD’s fit perfectly onto the Sanwa buttons.
But if you go with a Sanwa stick though, you’re in for some lameness as you’ll have to drill new holes and flatten out an area for the plate. BUT if you go with a Happ stick, “I think” you can use the same QD’s that are on there already and it should fit into the screw holes from the stock stick…but I’m not 100% sure as I’ve never used a Happ before, but it should be real easy regardless.
So if you’re a complete newbie to sticks and want to mod this thing easily…Go with Sanwa buttons and a Happ stick. The hardest part would be remembering which wire goes to which button/direction…but that’s easy if you just do 1 button at a time (which is what I did) :tup:
(yes I went with pink. I’m going to change the SF art as soon as I draw something up nice.)
I used the snap in Sanwa buttons and they went in PERFECTLY and don’t move/shift at all…and the SF’s stock QD’s just fit onto them like a glove. It’s like if this stick was built for Sanwa buttons. :tup:
I used the Sanwa stick that Rod is selling at himuragames.com (the JLF-TP-8Y with a mounting plate). But like I said, it was a pain in the ass getting it in compared to the buttons. The mounting plate didn’t fit into the area of the stock stick, and there was no way of getting the stock QD’s onto the Sanwa hookup. I actually rip’d off a cord from an old Computer Powersuply (Floppy Drive cord) and it fit nicely for 4 of the 5 prongs…then I just squished a QD with a wrench so it would hold onto the last prong.
It was a messy job…but it works like a charm. I’ll open it up tomorrow and get some pictures of the inside for your viewing pleasure.
And on a side note, I never once touched the PCB. This would really be the most easiest mod in the world with Sanwa buttons and a Happ stick. All you would need is a screw driver to open the box up. (that is if the stock QD’s fit onto the Happ stick)
Yeah, I also don’t understand how clip-type Sanwa buttons could fit in a wooden top panel so easily. Not only would I think that the holes would be too small, but even if they were the right size, how on earth could such short-bodied buttons fit in wood to begin with?
Well, I reckon that it’s gripping the “lexan.” I s’pose I could test it out, for I have my SF:AC and a partially dissasembled Green Goblin before me… Nah.
For that method, wouldn’t the diameter of the holes in the lexan have to be smaller than the wood holes, so that there would be a lexan rim for the buttons to clip onto?
Sorry, you’ll have to excuse me if I’m not making any sense. I’ve actually never seen the details of how a Sanwa clip-type button works. :wonder:
Dammit, now I’m too curious. Gimme five minutes and I’ll put a goblin button in there. Hey, that’s be hella easy! I left those two holes with only plugs!
If these buttons didn’t have tabs on the sides to force an orientation, they would totally go right in.
Now, again, I don’t have any Sanwa on hand, and these are just Sanwa-ish clip buttons that are in the Agetec Dreamcast stick. But the size is just right, I’m confused, need to re-read the Sanwa sticky.
Hey, Purrin. You got the Sanwa stick with the plate. Do you NEED the plate? Cause I’m cheap and without the plate I can save myself five bucks. Also, was it easy enough to measure everything right so you don’t end up have left and right directions slightly off?
Does this mean that swapping out the artwork might be more of a chore? It looks like once you get the joystick and buttons out, it’s just a matter of taking off the black edge molding and removing the clear acrylic.
Purrin, you said you got your stuff at HimuraGames.com and had to do some tedious adjustments for the mounting plate, right? What about this http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html (scroll down to the J-stik), that mounting plate should work, right? I ask you since you were the one who tinkered with it. It’s only 16 bucks, which is cheaper than HimuraGames has listed with and without a mounting plate. Not only that, it’s still Sanwa.
EDIT: Also, I haven’t looked deep into it, but it seems the plexi-glass is attatched to the artwork. Did you happen to notice any way that the artwork would come seperated from the piece in some fashion as so one could very easily slip their own artwork in, like you and me plan to do.
