Street Fighter 1 on 30th Aninversary collection: a separate joystick is needed? which version? remixed?

About Jamma, why did American game making companies not embrace it? I’ve seen to many games with non-standard layouts in my youth. Even all the SFII cabinets I’ve seen had a rectangular arrangement, and one side was right handed, the other was left, and the btons were flipped for the right, making quick attacks by the index finger. Jamma never took off in the arcades I’ve seen until Namco bought Aladdin’s Castle from Bally.

Maybe Jamma was only regional in America, maybe bi-coastal. Most of my arcades I visited were in Norttheast Ohio, By the way, most of the arcades I’ve seen was an Aladdin’s Castle, 2 Fun N Games and Chuck E Cheese. Atari always had exotic layouts, even up until T-Mek. Atari was the innovator in terms of gameplay, some succeeded, some bombed, but the Jamma-affiliated companies made new titles more attractive by recycling cabinets. And Neo Geo was its own standard with a row of 4 buttons, and a few companies were third party Neo Geo makers. I think Taito was, Universal was, and Data East was.

An remember this conversation started about Street Fighter I’s analog buttons. I’m talking about Fighting Street which Is NOT a HuCcard. If it were a HuCard, I could play it. SInce Turbo CD players are expensive, I sold my copy of Fighting Street, which was a CD, and the only TG16CD I have, to pay for the Wii VC version fo Fighting Street ad make a little profit.

That isn’t Jamma. Also Arcade owners and Operators of US cabs are known to make their own panels as US cab used Wood.
Jamma is a wiring standard, nothing to do with control panels.

If Jamma is wiring standard and not a cabinet control arrangement, then I WAS right about cabinet LAYOUTS not being standard in the US until AFTER SFIINC, You’re saying Japanese cabinets are metal with no side labels, hence why the Jamma standardized it for their layouts, which I’ve seen more once I went to a downtown arcade called Power Play in 1997. They had SFIII, SF Alpha, SF Alpha 2 (why wasn’t it called Street Fighter Beta?) Power Stone, and a bunch of other stuff in fairly standardized cabinets that ca be recycled.

To answer the question of the thread being made, no I don’t think a separate stick is necessary, if you want a special stick for you to do ambidextrous then you should probably research and design one. I’m pretty sure they aren’t going to do the analog button thing and will go with the Standardized layout of 6 buttons.

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Panels were pretty much standardized the same time, with the conversion kits comes new overlays for the control panels and templates for drilling new holes. But its up to each and every arcade operator to choose how they implement their changes. There been some badly done janky conversions in the past. I seen some small arcade cabs that aren’t intended for 2 player Street Fighter 2 converted to Street Fighter 2 (and they were a hot mess).

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I never played Stret Fighter 1 in the arcades, nor have I ever played it until I bought it on Nintnedo Wii VC as the TG16VD version of Fighting Street. I have played Many different versions of Capcom and other comapny fighting games since, but this is not trying to be a smarta$$ question.

Is it just me, or is the executiion percentage of special moves harder on the Wii VC veriosn of the TG16CD version of Street Fighter 1? I don’t know what it is. I tried a joypad and couldn’t do fireballs right. I get a Fighting Stick Wii and I couldn’t do fireballs right, let alone dragon punches. In thisd time I played WII VC Fighting street I may have pulled off one move accidentally, and every time I tried doing a special, it failed.

I can think of 4 things. 1 is the timing and other physical factors are different in execution that a SFII and beyond special move? I understand in the Wii VC version is supposedly an exact recreation of the TG16CD version, and I had seen the instructions for the TG16CD verision, becuase I had the disc, so I sold the disc for $20 on Ebay and bought the VC version with $8. The instruction book told me, if I remember right, up to 1/4 second of pressing and releasing is light, above 1/4 and up to 1/2 is medium, and over 1/2 second is heavy. I think it even says it on the VC virtual instruction book. So I know there are even more timing issues than in the arcade because of that fact, whihc early had analog buttons, and because everyone thought harder was better and people thought it was a true analog button used in skill games (and not an 8-bit analog trigger, but pure analog, like a hammer swing at a carnival) they whacked the button like it was test your strength button. So they moved to a 6-button system. And the TG16 didn’t have a 6 button controller yet, so they did the best they could do by having length of hold determine strength.

I read the instructions, and Ryu’s and Ken’s moves (who were just 2 different representations of basically the only human character when playing 2 players. It just looked better than a Mario/Luigi Palate Swap, but served the same function) are exactly like in Street Fighter 2 (vanilla). And I was able to pull off fireballs, dragon punches and hurricane kicks in SFII and used the same joystick maneuvers later on in future Capcom games, yet Fighting street didn’t click right.

First of all is there a difference between the WII VC version and the TG16CD version? Or is that a perfect copy of the TG16CD game? (minus emulator and OS add ons) If it isn’t does the TG16CD control better.

I know they made the compromise dealing with the analog butons/6 button layout. If you played Street Fighter 1 in the arcades and then played it on either TG16CD or Wii VC, is the arcade of SFI just like SF II in terms of pulling off specials, and it’s the broken TG16CD version, or did SFI have different execution points than SF II?

If the analog buttons were working perfectly, and a game demo explained there are 3 different levels of attacks, and if it gave you a training screen when you first start, giving you a feel of the 3 levels, I got two questions.

  1. is there a reason why you’d like to pull off different strengths at different times? I know in SFII and beyond there are strategic reasons, like reach, quickness, and recovery time to block as well as a possible combo setup. I know the newbies, once they saw harder was harder, thought harder was always better. Do SFI experts know better?

  2. Assuming harder isn’t always better, Is it a harder physical skill to press a light, medium, and heavy punch or kick with a certain strength that is consistent and controllable compared to using a different finger for a different strength. If it is, then The Xbox One version (as well as the PS4 if the analog buttons of the PS2 days are maintained) should have analog SF verision where the LT and RT are punch and kick. You can’t do that on switch, (unless you do a WiiMote swing, but that wouldn’t be true to the arcade. Or you can use game cube controllers and the Game Cube controller adapter for Wii U on Switch) If the verision of SFI were a SF I Deluxe with the other 10 characters human-controllable and Eryu and Ken CPU-controllable, and you sort the balances issues of the CPU guys facing each toher, , then people might want to invest in a 2 analog button/joystick combo.

Also, if there were a 2 analog button stick that a person INDIVIDUALLY owned, the individual will take care of it better than a COMMUNAL controller, where if you break it in normal gameplay in the arcade, the arcade owner pays to fix it, but if you own your own stick, you make sure only smash hard enough to register a heavy attack and try not to slam it in a way that can break it, because you don’t want to buy another one.

I have faith that most people who would buy it would appreciate the skill in manipulating the analog buttons, and should have an all-analog buttons league. But that would only be attractive if SF1 was SFI Deluxe with any character against any other character. No one will buy an analog button stick just to beat the CPU better than the other guy or master the mirror match of Ryu vs Ken.

Here is the cab in question

And the panel up close

Here are the analog buttons

We are never going to see a home version of this.
Capcom doesn’t have the clout they used to commission a new SKU and recreate this as a home version.
And Nintendo and Sony isn’t going to feel compelled to develop this ether.

If you want, you can look for used or NOS (New Old Stock) and make your own.

More info on the Cab here
https://www.fightersgeneration.com/games/sf.html

According to the site, the old SF1 is notoriously hard to pull moves compared to it’s sequel.

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I didn’t say the nature of the technology has to be the same, just the effect of a 2-bit analog button needs to be intact. I would say use LT and RT or L2 and R2 (or on Switch with Game Cube Controllers) L and R could be the type of physical technology to run a 2 bit joystick. You just need to read the 2 “gorssest”, or “heaviest” bits, (in terms of binary numbers the 2 buttons on an 8 bit chain, if the right most number is the 1 bit, and the the one to its left is the 2 bit then the 4 bit, etc… use just the 128 value bit and the 64 value bit it will divide it into 4 regions, unpressed, light, middle, and heavy.

If you can duplicate analog buttons with a modern sense of technology, like the joypad buttons/triggers, but on a table top with a lone joystick it might be worth it to experience Street Fighter 1 the way it was originally intended. But that depends on 2 factors:

  1. Is pressing the analog button to the degree you want on command a harder or different physical skill than pressing diferent buttons, it changes the experience. I understand that fighters since Mortal Kombat and Eterenal Champions use multiple buttons simultaneously pressed, (unless Zangief’s 3-punch and 3-Kick moves were in Vanilla Street Fighter 2, then it goes back to that.)

But Street Fighter 1 just used the 6-button cabinet as a “bastard compromise” to a weird, unconventional set of 2-bit analog buttons. It’s just when they got to SFII, they didn’t expect arcade owners to invest in analog buttons (rightly so), being too high maintenance. they embraced the 6 button layout, and gradually added multi-presses, the first being Zangief.

But to play SFI the way the makers intended, you need analog controls.

But chances are no one would buy a SF1 joystick, unless the 30th anniversary collection has SFI Deluxe, where the 10 CPU-controlled characters can be played by humans, and Ryu and Ken controlled by CPUs.

And also only the 2 intended buttons to be Analog Punch and Analog Kick. So all you need is 2 buttons to be 2bit. They don’t have to be accurate to 8 bits (256 posiitons) so it’s probalby easier to make a 2 bit button than an 8 bit one.

But if you’re going to design something new, do it right. A lot of people consider the 7th and 8th buttons so much of a nuisance, that unless they play SNK games, enough people take off the 3P and 3K, because they are illegal in some tournaments, and it just ruins you finger stance. And enough people will insit on speciific buttons enough that the inside 6 have to be a true digital button. But the outside 2 can be 2 bit buttons.

There is another advantage to that. If it were like the SF15 Anniversary stick, with a rectangular arrangement of the buttons, then it could be easily designed to be ambidextrous. Just reverse the joystick directions, swap corresponding punches and kick, and your outside 2 buttons always have the lower button as analog kick/three , and the top button as analog punch. Start and select have to be moved to not be in the way of some righties, (even though I never had a problem with it, and I righthanded my SF15AS.) and have enough table real estate on both sides, but the first authorized by Nintendo, Microsoft, and Sony ambidextrous joystick will get some people buying it who before had to go custom.

And Nintendo, Sony and Microsoft can be (Let’s keep this conversation rated E) stubborn idiots when you tell them, you’d LIKE to buy factory authorized, but they make you feel like a criminal for having as custom stick, just because you put the joystick in the right hand. If anything goes wrong with the joyports, they say you have to pay the full cost of replacement or repair, even if it’s under warrantee. No one has really tried a System-authorized right handed/ambidextrous joystick. The only 2 I know of are the Sega Master system Joystick, and they screwed that up because most games make sense mapping index-to-index, not left-to-left, (example Sidearms, Tuthankam) and you might need to do left-to-left too occasionally, and Beeshu Joysticks, which were Authroized for the Turbo Grafx 16, but were unauthorized for Nintendo, and Sega didn’t have a Master System accessory licensing policy in the US. I don’t know whether they were unauthorized, because Nintendo didn’t allow a right handed stick, or whether Beeshu didn’t want to pay licensing fees. Sega was like that on the Saturn until units were left in stores languishing, and Sega on the 1800-USA-SEGA phone line, to sell through their Saturns, ENCOURAGED people to buy Foreign adapters and Ram Carts.

But the point is people are paying big bucks for a joystick, so why not make a Joystick for the PS4, One, and Switch, where it has the analog buttons as the 3 punch and 3 kick, and is ambidextrous. I think beginner to moderate players would prefer an ambidextrous stick that has slight compromises in button contour to accommodate both hands.

All you have to do is lay you hand out out to the side and have your index on the analog kick (3K) and either your middle on the analog punch (3P), or better, use one finger to press both, because as far as I know, there is no need, and in the arcade, physically impossibl,e to press punch and kick at the same time in SFI.

This will work if these 3 conditions are fulfilled: 1. Pressing buttons with variable pressure is a harder skill than pressing different buttons 2, there is a strategic reason why you’d want to throw lights and mediums in SFI and get past the noob strereotype of harder is always better, and 3. If they make it worth picking up this stick for SFI, by making it SFI Deluxe, with all characters controllable by either Human OR Computer.

And you missed the point.

  1. Those are not 2 bit analog buttons. The software for the game recognizes 4 states , No Pressed, lightly pressed, medium press and hard press. And when it found those buttons break too quickly they went with a 6 button system, each kick and punch having a low, medium and heavy.

The hell you got this lie from. Zangeif was not even seen till SF2.

These games didn’t came til way after SF II. SF1 was quickly forgotten, SF2 which opened the arcade scene and the video game industry to Fighting games.

Still got no idea where you getting this from where the only playable characters was Ryu and Ken, and Ken was only playable as Player 2.

Still where are you getting this from. No one seen a 7th or 8th button used until the PS3/ Xbox 360 era.
Yeah the Saturn sticks had 8 buttons but they aren’t used or did short cuts to menu functions.

Never was the case. Also irrelevant to the topic. Nintendo/Sony.Microsoft never authorized an ambidextrous stick any where from the 90s going forwards. You saw some 2 button console sticks being ambidextrous, but they fade out of use in the miod to late 80s.

Never was the case.

Oh The Nintendo did have plenty of ambidextrous joysticks for the NES and Famicom. They were all two button controllers, with the joystick int he middle and the two buttons are repeated on both sides.

Thats how a niche scene is, don’t like it find a different hobby.

Except only two characters were ever playable, and Ryu was player 1 and Ken was player two.
Moves were not an advertised feature and was hidden features/Easter eggs.

Speaking of which, Has anyone played more than one of these verision of SFI and a later Capcom game (from SFII Vanilla onward). I can’t make an educated opinion on this, but the WI VC verison of Fighting street has special moves, that, even though I know the formula of how to do it in SFII, and can do it left handed enough times, and at my peak, can do it right handed any time I willed it, assuming the programming would let me pull it off, it did. Meaning no misfires against my friends and the CPU when I was right handed back when SFIINC was on Genesis. Any errors I had were strategic and mis-reaction errors, no physical human error when pulling off dragon punches. And in SFIINC pulling those off at will and as a surprise won you almost every game. Later games added more elements and made it less about special execution. So I know wha I’m doing on the sticks.

But back to my point the Wii VC Figting Street, has anyone else who can beat one level 4 computer run on any of the games in any character one one credit (in other words have enough ability to pull off those moves on SFII or newer) have a tough time with the Wii VC version fo Fighting Street? How about the TG16CD veriosn of Fighting street? Both of those, I assume most issues deal with button timing, because you held punch and kick down longer for harder attacks. How about 6 button SFI? And finally, how about 2-bit button SFI? Is the timing or some other finer point in execution significantly different on WII VC Fighting Street compared to SFI arcade and compared to SFII and later? Because even with a Hori Fight Stick for Wii, I literally executed one special once, and that was a misfire. Is anyone else good enough at SFII and beyond where they have a good chance of pulling off specials having trouble with WII VC Fighting Street specials, (other than using the cheat of the high score entry which enables select + either down, forward, or back to equal a special move.)?