So ive had this mas stick for about two years with no problems…all of sudden it just doesnt want to work anymore…when i try to play with it i am able to move the stick up,down,left,right when its on its side and all the buttons work as well when its on its side…the miniute i lay it down flat NOTHING works…i was told to swap out the microswitches but i find that kinda weird…maybe the board itself is going bad?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10349216_10154795639705311_3056098767353507259_n.jpg?oh=40e9389a76c189b9b32a72c8453183fe&oe=54D3C0CD&gda=1425061339_443cff58acbe40ccf90088daa39dd3f5
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10702003_10154795653745311_4675194218506559766_n.jpg?oh=4e99d35c1ecf4926d1088e33042ea7f4&oe=54DA43AF
I would check that controller cable before I go replace the PCB.
That common ground conductor is atrocious. It’s an exposed copper wire, and it’s hanging over the board.
Make sure it’s only contacting the board at one point. It should also connect to one terminal of each microswitch (either directly or indirectly).
Once you confirm that is the case, put some scotch tape in between the exposed conductor and the board. Make sure it cannot touch elsewhere.
You could also check the connections on the cable coming out of the controller, as Darksakul suggested.
The wires should be firmly connected at the PCB, there should be a strain relief (there is not one), and the cable should not have any kinks or breaks. Be especially careful to check the length of cable protruding from the stick for signs of damage; we can’t see the whole cable in the (otherwise excellent) images you posted.
Those kinds of buttons and switches won’t wear out after two years, considering that your stick is likely for personal use (not being used in an arcade environment). The symptoms would be different as well; they would individually fail, and fail to register button presses now and then. All of your buttons failing at once is improbable.
What system(s) is that even for?
I’d venture to guess it’s a PS1 board with that overlay and 7 conductors (assuming he doesn’t have VCC2/7-9V wired, which is for rumble and other accessories). USB could use no more than 5 conductors (with the fifth being S.GND), and I don’t know anyone with a dedicated custom Saturn stick.
The board seems to be modular in that the manufacturer would simply drop microcontrollers or logic chips in the open DIP slots as needed, each of which seems to be labeled for its respective console.
Top to bottom:
“Nintendo (obscured)”
“DR(obscured) -eamcast”
“Playstation” (I would assume; the only one currently populated)
“PC (obscured)” (I would assume PC engine, based on the spacing)
“PC(obscured)” (Ostensibly a USB encoder)
Note that if they’re using a 6B PC-Engine layout, it uses similar logic chips to a Saturn controller and could be adapted with some tricky signal routing by a microcontroller. By extension, the same set of logic chips could control a Genesis, and with much less troublesome routing.
The unpopulated slot at the very bottom is marked for an external controller (lit. “EXT CONTROLLER”), probably digital un-encoded inputs (as you would have for a Neo-Geo).
d3v
6
Might as well take the time to rework and refurbish that stick.
Drop the PCB and replace with an MC Cthulhu.
Fix that atrocious wiring and do proper wiring with good cabling and .187 QDs.
Seconded. Gut that thing.
New PCB, new wiring.
When you put a new lead in, different routing, or a least some cable relief wouldn’t go amiss either. Plastic cable guides and either a rubber grommet, a Neutrik connector or simply some additional slack to help it around that sharp bend out of the stick will save you potential future hassle.
right now i have the Chimp SMD could that work? Its already modded to my TE that i do not use anymore
If you only wanted it working on PS3 / PC then that would be just about perfect.
Alternatively you could get a PS2/3 ZD Encoder with American style wiring for a budget price. The upside to that is that it will work on PS2, PS3, and PC and come with all wiring. You’ll need to clean up the solder on the button & joystick microswitches though. That MAS wiring is bloody horrible.
d3v
10
You know, you could just gut the TE and transfer the Chimp and the TE PCB onto the MAS, this would give you 360 functionality as well. Though you’ll still have to re-crimp the .187 QDs.
