So how do people make custom art anyways?

Tech Talk
21

I think most people use spray adhesive.

i also know a friend of mine who just let the screws on the hori hold down the artwork

22

Oh ok, thanks. Where do you think they would sell the spray adhesive? Does it have a strong odor?

23

I found some adhesive glue at the staples website, it says they’re permanent, if I want to change the artwork later, can I just peel it off with a knife or something, or will it not come off at all?

Which one of these will do the job?

http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/StaplesSearch?searchkey=3m+glue&storeId=10001&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&fromUrl=home

24

$15 for spray adhesive?! That’s kinda steep.

http://www.dickblick.com/adhesive/sprays/repositionableadhesives/details/

Try any of these. All you’ll need is a small can. If you want it to be permanent, you spray both surfaces… otherwise, just spray the paper and you’ll be able to peel it off later. I do this all the time with my artwork and to mount stuff for work.

25

Thanks for the link, it looks like I’m going with the 3M one, I heard good things about it.

26

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&N=4294961544&Ne=4294967294&Ntk=i_products&Ntt=spray+adhesive

would you recommend peeling off the original art, or just putting your art over it?

27

I would peel it off. There’s no point in having unnecessary layers.

Also… don’t use Loctite. It’s a pain to get the artwork off if you want to reposition it. I would go with 3M (I’ve found that it’s the best as far as keeping stuff in place but you can reposition stuff if you want/need to)

28

would it be ok to remove the extra two right buttons and just cover the holes with the artwork? i don’t really like how plugs look.

29

I suppose it’d be ok if it really bothers you that much. Although common sense would dictate putting something else in the hole, just in case a pencil or something pokes through it. I would use Kneadatite Epoxy Modeling Putty (also known as ‘green stuff’) and then sand it smooth after it hardens.

30

just went to lowes today and got “DURO” all purpose spray adhesive for $4. it says for permanent bond: spray both surfaces. repositionalbe bond: spray once surface. hopefully this will work ok.

another question: should i laminate both sides of the artwork or just the top side?

31

at office depot it is 3 bucks to print and 2 bucks to laminate.

32

A few tips:

  1. If you want to go inexpensive, use lami-labels as opposed to spray mount. Even though the ID laminators that kinkos uses can be bubbly, its better than uneven spray mounts and how they, in my experience, are prone to self-destruct. I loathe that stuff personally, but I’m spoiled by having access to a 60" laminator and duramount:smokin:. The only problem is that not too many places carry those labels in 11x17, which HRAPs and most other sticks will need. Use spray as a last resort IMO. Also, some sprays will ruin the print of sprayed on the printed side, so be sure to test it first.

  2. DPI, for the art work, is in-and-of-itself irrelevant. Its the resolution at size that matters. An image could be 72 DPI, but scaled to something stupid huge like 30"x42". That will work fine when scaled down for print in most cases. Conversely, you could have a 300 DPI image thats only set to 1"x3". That will look like crap. If you’re working with a pure raster file like a tiff or jpg, be sure to check not only the resolution but also the size of the image. Half the time people will grab images from web pages that look great on screen, but when scaled and printed look like dogshit.

  3. If you’re looking for a high-end print, and don’t mind paying $20+ for it, have a shop like kinko’s run it on an HP Designjet. You should just have them laminate it if you go that route, as its a 6-8 color inkjet and if it gets any moisture you can and will get smudges.

I work in the print industry, so if anyone has a art printing related question, feel free to PM me. I may even put together a faq if there’s enough interest.

33

Conebone:

Sry for posting here. My SRK account is really new and I have yet to have enough posts to PM. Idiot mistake on my part :confused:

Anyway, in response:

Lamilabels are around $4 per for 11x17, depending on where you go. just be sure to cut the holes and such before laminating, or you could have some longevity issues since exposed paper stock with laminate on both sides tends to peel apart.

Print, cut, lam, trim. Thats the rule. Leave an extra 1/8" of laminated border when trimming to ensure a solid seal. this is not so much of an issue when dealing with vinyl media or pressure sensitive lam, but I know the brand that shops like Kinkos use for their lamilabels and thats how it behaves.

34

after you cut out the holes, when you laminate, does it cover the holes back up? then you are suppose to cut out the holes again? sorry if this is a stupid question, I’ve never done anything like this before.

35

i was about to ask the same question…:rofl:

How much does it cost to laminate the ($4)lami-label or does that come with it?

36

i think the lami label is laminated and has a sticky on the back.

37

So what would we need to order at Fedkinkos for the TE stick? I haven’t read anywhere how to change the artwork on it (dont like it).

38

Does anyonw know any decent online printers where you could get this done?

39

Id like to know if there is any chain of stores in the UK which do the lami-labels? I asked at a local (small) printers and they didn’t have a clue. Tried explaining to them, but they said the only thing they do like that is adhesive vinyl, and can only do minimum prints of 12 copies lol