If you go back to Lowe’s, they have thread sizing blocks for metric and standard. You basically take a good screw and either them or yourself can try threading it in all the holes until you find a perfect match. The good news is that the screw has to be some sort of common machined size. Knowing Madcatz, they definitely wouldn’t have spent more money to machine batches of proprietary screws… at least… I hope not…
right on !!!
FINAL SE STICK UPDATE:
after a week of use, the stick is getting way too loose feeling and my HK button is just getting stuck repeatedly.
i seriously entertained the idea to mod it but i couldn’t even get into the casing because all the screws got stripped by my attempt to open it.
SO ITS STILL UNDER WARRANTY FOLKS.
i’m just gonna return it to gamestop and buy a hori online
Doing that later today.
My stick had a sort of dead space where it would stick to the left and now doesn’t work on the left side what so ever. I have two friends both with the SE stick, unhappy with them due to repetitive sticking.
Sorry I should have noted, that screw info I provided will be a little tall, the 4mm screw measurement is definitely right though. Try getting something shorter.
I didn’t get to test quickly enough for the replacement sizes, but for sure 4mm will fit.
after 5 hardware stores i found the screws, they are little shorter than the normal screws but shorter is better i thought cuz i didnt want them too long to hit the metal plate… u want metric 4 screws and length is either regular or shorter id say.
Just got my stick today…and it doesnt register anything on the right side
This [SE] thread is so much win.
And by win, I mean Winnebago.
And by Winnebago, I imply white trash.
And by suggesting white trash, I bring us back 'round full circle, to the SE.
Dodgy logic?
Perhaps.
Apt?
Most assuredly.
No problems so far but the sticks are def not created equal. The Stick I deemed to be the lesser of the 2 I spent the most time with and so far it’s still working.
But I’m gonna mod these when the Warranty is up.
How did your “up” broke? Im really curious about the main board cause if I plan to mod the stick and buttons , the next problem would be the main board failing on me because you know… its made by madcatz.
Well my stick is officially broken, 4 days after the launch of SF4.
The down (and back-down, forward-down) command no longer works at all, my guess is that the washer has completely worn away the PCB ‘wires’ for the stick. I ordered a bunch of sanwa parts for lizard lick and they wont be here for at least another week because they have been back-ordered. Im through with madcatz entirely, i’ve already opened my stick (voided my warrenty) because i attempted to glue the washer down, but the screws on my mounting plate are too tight and to easily stripped to take out, so i couldnt even get access to the washer.
I’m trying to learn to play on a stick, but now i cant play with it and have to use my ps3 pad, stopping my progress entirely.
Basically, im fucking pissed. :arazz:
PCB = Printed Circuit Board.
Every stick and all electronics come with some sort of circuit board. Printed means that the conductive wires are printed onto a board.
So yes, there are multiple PCBs in your stick actually. There is the main PCB which is connected to the wire that goes to your xbox/ps3, there is a smaller PCB connected to the stick itself and separate from the other ones.
The PCB that is under question of having problems is the one connected to the stick. When you remove the stick component and put in a sanwa stick, the defective madcatz PCB will go with it. Any damage to the madcatz’s sticks PCB will not effect the performance of your sanwa.
– What pisses me off, is that my stick doesn’t work at all now, and my sanwa replacement wont be here for another week (or more) and i either have to play with a pad (which i dont want to do because im trying to learn with a stick) or just not play SF4 at all… (which i REALLY dont want to do…) –
p.s.: fuck madcatz. and sorry for the double post.
I feel bad for everyone having the issues with the SE fightstick. My friend got a TE stick and it is amazing. I still plan on getting the SE stick though just because I want to mod it. If any of you have a fight stick you don’t want I would gladly buy it from you 
I planned on modding mine too, but the parts i ordered last friday wont be here until next week or later…
so, if you want to mod your stick, you’d better order your parts soon because you might get stuck without a working stick like i am…
my sf se stick is broken also. right, down right, and upright doesn’t work on the joystick at all. every other direction does.
tried fixing it but yeah two screws broke on the joystick and i can’t get the plate off. can’t believe they superglued the screws. what kinda crap is that.
oh wells. i guess i can wait for my parts from lizardlick. hopefully i get it in 1-2 weeks…
do we have a count of how many have problems with the joystick?
So your saying if the madcatz’s PCB is grinded up, once you put the Sanwa stick in the joystick should be working flawlessly? Cause I don’t know if I should buy an extra joystick PCB.
I have both the 360 and PS3 SE sticks. The 360 one is still working great after 10+ hours of use. The PS3 one is bad out of the box, you can feel the joystick sticking in the up up/right directions and hear a very not-normal noise. /sadface
Well Keits, the stick is moddable so I mean thats cool!
Yes. There is more than one circuit board in your stick, so saying PCB isn’t very detailed or clear.
So ill list the 2 important ones im talking about. These aren’t official names but they are sort of codenames to illustrate the difference between the two PCBs:
“PCB-M” = The main circuit board that all the buttons and the stick have wires going to. This is the main control interface of the stick and everytime you hit a button or move the stick the signal is routed through this main board and out, via usb, to your console. [http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1800/dsc0388111111111111111df1.jpg] – In this picture you can see that there are multiple green circuit boards. PCB-M is the main board located below where the stick goes.
“PCB-S” = The smaller circuit board component attached only to the directional-stick. This circuit board is a part of the joystick (that you use to control directional movements) and is sandwiched between the various plastic parts of the joystick. [http://lizardlick.com/images/for_sale/joysticks/jlf_tp_8t.jpg] – In this picture the PCB-S is the small green board in the middle of the stick.
With that out of the way: The “PCB-S” that is attached to the madcatz stick (only on the actual stick part, not the main board that the stick and all the buttons are connected to) is getting scratched constantly by the lose washer in the stick component…
“PCB-M” and all the other PCBs are fine and are in no way being altered or effected by the lose washer in the stick.
All new joysticks will come with a PCB-S, including sanwa sticks.
When you replace your stick with a sanwa stick. You will be completely replacing your PCB-S with the one attached to the sanwa stick. Any problem that may have damaged your original madcatz PCB-S will not effect your new one.
Thats about as clear as i can make it. PCB can mean multiple things in a joystick, but…
*
The PCB-S that is being damaged by the stick will be replaced when you take out your madcatz stick and put in your sanwa one. // The other PCBs (like the PCB-M and the one controlling your turbo system) will not be replaced, but that shouldnt matter because they have not been getting damaged by the issue with the loose washer. *
I haven’t had a chance to run through the whole thread but the buttons sometimes go unresponsive on my FS. Mainly it’s my RH button sometimes it just stops working but if I unplug and plug my controller it starts working fine again. I did reeplace the buttons with sanwas but i’m pretty sure it’s not an issue with the PCB or the quick disconnects… anyone else experiencing this?