Don’t know about neo specific things, but anytime you’re doing a dual (or more) mod all boards need to have power. The stick will go bonkers on you otherwise.
More progress. I cut the case away beneath the terminal strip, snipped the connectors from the Wii PCB’s ribbon cables, and soldered each wire to the correct contact on the bottom of the strip.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/IMAG003_edit_1398374936088.jpg
treat the Neo geo cable as another PCB for the purpose for dual-moding
Make sure the Wii PCB, Cthlhu and NEO Geo cable all together have power connected to power, and ground connected to ground.
i wanted so bad one of those during the sales
i saw it in one day, my credit card didn’t work, i transfered money to my other card… and it was sold out
i almost cried =/
What’s the best place to put a Neutrik USB Feed-through?
Inside the cable door? Or is there a good replacement USB cable to replace the Wii/U cable?
I’m going to make it a 360 stick.
Forgot
You have a few options since you’re not keeping the Wii support. Personally, I’d consider the cable door in that scenario, keep it looking neat.
Well, I think I fried the Wii-U board by accidentally connecting the Neo’s power to ground - oops. Guess this stick will be Neo/PS3/PC 
Have two more $49.99 sticks on the way. Let’s see if I learned my lesson…
So you left the Wii PCB connected and spliced all the wires from the JLF wires and the buttons from the terminal strip between the Wii PCB and the PS360+?
How did you ground everything for the PS360+? Did you just daisy chain the buttons from the terminal strip to the PS360+?
It doesn’t look like a very difficult mod. The hardest part for me will be soldering the power wire to the Wii PCB just because I don’t know how to solder really. lol
And how’s that Hayabusa? I’ve looked to see if anyone has done a comparison between the Sanwa, Seimitsu or Crown but I’ve come up empty. So do you notice a real difference with the Hayabusa? It looks very interesting.
Right after posting this I did another search for a Hayabusa comparison and came across a few like this
Also a review of the stick from Justin Wong and Alex Valle both giving it a 10/10 (they are reviewing the Fighting Edge but they talk about the Hayabusa in it)
http://www.hori.jp/us/press/f_edge_review_j_w/
http://www.hori.jp/us/press/f_edge_review/
I’m definitely going to consider swapping out one of my sticks.
Don’t forget about our threads here that go way farther in depth.
The first ten pages or so before a bunch of BS drama began will tell you a great deal of what you would want to know.
O wow. Thanks, I like doing alot (maybe too much lol) research before I buy something like that. Took me forever before I bought the stuff I used to mod my other sticks. I like to read threads like that when I’m looking.
If you look at my sketch in the first post, you’ll see that I ran a ground line from the terminal strip to the new pcb.
As for the Hayabusa, I like it. It’s a bit over hyped right now, but a good stick nonetheless. Since taking that picture, I put an LS40 in it, also digging that one. All that said, the JLF is still an excellent lever that works great for me with a kowal actuator and an octo gate- don’t feel like you need to swap it out in order to have something good.
its good you did your own research. It leads you to form your own opinions and be come a smart consumer.
[quote=“PresidentCamacho, post:32, topic:166460”]
If you look at my sketch in the first post, you’ll see that I ran a ground line from the terminal strip to the new pcb.
O ok. I noticed that but I wasn’t sure if you had a single wire coming from the terminal or a daisy chain setup. Thank for clearing that up for me.
If you look closely at the picture of my terminal strip, you’ll see a single black wire among the cluster of green wires, it’s paired into the leftmost quick disconnect (with the black button wires) on the ground side of the strip. One wire will do the trick with this setup.