Is that Guardian bag exactly the same as the Qanba Defender?
Thanks for the feedback! We may come out with the alternate design in the future. 
I would like to know this, also.
Just found out they don’t ship to Australia 
And shipping for the Splitframe Transporter 2 (normal version, not Ryu version) is just about the same price as the bag itself!
I just want a backpack to fit either the TE2 or the VS
Here are some differences between the Guardian and the Defender:
[list]
[] Guardian does not have the felt lining found in the Defender to create more room in the main, large pocket.
[] Guardian has double zippers on the top pocket and front pocket.
[] Guardian does not have the interior top pocket found in the Defender.
[] Guardian has additional 2 small, zippered pockets located above the water bottle pockets.
[] Guardian’s front pocket is larger horizontally and has more space.
[] Guardian has rubber bumpers located at the bottom of the backpack for placing it on the ground.
[] Guardian has padded straps for shoulders for additional comfort when carrying heavy items inside main compartment.
[] Guardian has padded back for comfort.
[*] Guardian is a slightly darker color than the Defender backpack.
[/list]
Please let us know if you need any pictures to help show the differences between the 2 items.
The backpack is not waterproof.
How hard would it be to replace the qanba stick with sanwa parts?I read on iplaywinner that modding the joystick was kinda difficult
Since the stick just came out I don’t think anyone can answer that, but you can’t just put in a JLF. Apparently you have to do a mod to get the harness connected to the PCB or use different microswitches instead of the TP-MA. You’re on your own there.
It looks like a JLF can drop into there, but the issue is that you’re gonna need a bit of soldering. So what I can advise doing is actually grab a JLF’s TP-MA assembly and solder the wires to the solder points on the TP-MA PCB, convert the wires into a 5-pin wiring harness or what @Falkentyne says grab new microswitches and throw them in. I’ll edit this post with the exact model of them in a bit.
EDIT: Microswitches inside of the JLF is the D3V-16-3C25, you can also get the short hinged variation for decreased deadzone if you want which is D3V-161-3C25. The hinges are easily removable if you do get the latter and you end up not liking it. If you can’t find those versions, then change the “3C25” on them to “1C25”, only difference is that the 1C25 comes with a NC terminal which is unneeded for this.
But here’s the interior of the joystick mounting:
Might be because I’m on mobile but the image isn’t loading. I’m not really experienced with soldering so how tough a job do you figure that would be?
Umm, it honestly shouldn’t be too hard, just watch some tutorials. Make sure the solder joint isn’t cold either as well, this is crucial, no bridging solder. Here’s a pic of good and bad solder joints:
Give it time, the stick just came out.
If you ask me unless you want a bottom of the barrel budget stick, you should look elsewhere.
Yeeeeaaaah I was looking to save a couple bucks but by the sound of things it might be more worthwhile to just spring for a t.e+ like I had originally planned.
I was thinking of getting this stick and installing a Crown joystick inside, but it seems it’s not possible
Why is it not possible to install a crown joystick in one of these?
You used the wrong share code for this forum.
Use the Direct Link and not the Embed Code, Embedded code does not run on vanilla forums.
The link you want is this.
https://youtu.be/tiHKd5qaXd8
Also this video is 2 years old. If they wanted that stick released, they would of done so by now.
You can easily install a Sanwa JLF into one of these by using this wiring harness.
https://focusattack.com/spare-5-pin-female-harness-for-zero-delay-usb-encoder-pcb/