Ps2 Fightsticks

Hey guys relatively new here and forgive me if this has already been beaten to death.
I was wondering the general opinion of the suggoi arcana heart 2 fightstick.
I’m looking to buy it or another stick to use solely for my ps2/ps1 fighting games.
I’m already aware of modding your current gen system fightsticks to fill this need but i much rather have a seperate stick for the systems. So i was just wondering if anyone who has it thought it was good out of the box also if it will play well with psx games and the like? Again sorry if this topic has been brought up in a previous thread, I tried searching through the archives and it brought up nothing that seemed to be relevant. If there is such a thread please kindly point me in that direction and I will head that way.
Thanks in advance

Is this the stick you’re talking about?

If so, I’m quite sure that it’s very similar to the Tekken 5 Hori Stick, meaning it will have stock parts and the buttons will be soldered directly onto the PCB. Out of the box, these will work fine for your PS1/PS2, but after long usage, the buttons will begin to go out.

I own a Tekken 5 Hori and once its buttons started to not work anymore, I just decided to scrap everything in the stick and replace all the parts for Sanwa buttons and Seimitsu stick, as well as put in a PS1 Dualshock controller as the PCB to be used on my PS3 and Wii, using respective converters for each console.

Hope this helped.

Thanks Royal,
Just a quick follow up question so I take it that it’s extremely hard to mod this stick since you scrapped the insides? I’ve never modded a stick before and i wanted to get ones that were fairly simple to mod in case things malfunctioned.
Also just about how long do you think the buttons and stick will last with standard amount of play?
I can’t seem to find out anything about the stick unfortunately the place I am buying this stick from doesn’t seem to know much about sticks themselves they just carry the product so I can’t really ask them anything to technical, do you know of any place where I can get info on sticks? google is not really helping.

Basically, there’s a giant board on the inside on all of the buttons connecting them. You have to remove this by desoldering or just plain breaking it off if you replace the buttons, too, then you have to do a DIY rewiring. It’s decent stock, but it’ll be a project if you want to up it to top quality.

The Arcana Heart 2 stick has a Sanwa JLF already in it so you’re all set with the stick unless you want to change it with a Seimitsu.

The buttons are stock Hori and they’re fine unless you go crazy while playing. Like Nerrage says…it is some work to replace the buttons and if I remember correctly someone else on the forum mentioned that PCB board is a little fragile…so be careful when desoldering.

Other than that…the stick is probably the best PS2 stick out of the box that you can easily buy from stores nowadays.

I think that if you wanted to change the buttons, rather than widening the holes on the top panel, you could get a replacement top panel. If it is basically a reskinned Tekken 5 stick this should work. I’m not sure if that stick does have a Sanwa JLF, but if you get a replacement panel it requires a JLF with a mounting plate. Some of the Hori’s with JLFs have no mounting plate.

Welcome to Art’s Hobbies

HRAP Suggoi! Arcana Heart 2 can open from the top, same style as HRAP 2 SA, HRAP 3 SA/SE, HRAP EX SA/SE.
Same open from top like Mad Catz TE.

The AH2 stick is okay stock, but not a simple swap-friendly stick. The joystick is a Sanwa JLF, but the buttons require a bit of work: desoldering buttons from PCB & grinding two metal tabs for each button from the control panel.

If you can get it cheap or just plain prefer the button layout then great, although a used HRAP/HRAP2 would be more mod-friendly.

*The above isn’t all that hard, but it’ll take up about 30 minutes of time before it’s even ready to pop new buttons into it.

To mod the Tekken 5 Hori wasn’t difficult, but everything required a bit of work to replace. Up until the Madcatz Fightsticks came around, I don’t think arcade sticks were made to be easy to mod, but modding the Hori sticks based on the Real Arcade Pro series aren’t too bad to mod if you don’t mind putting entirely new parts in the arcade stick case.

For the stick, you have to drill out several holes to remove the built-in mounting plate, then install whatever stick you have (I have installed two different sticks into two different T5 Hori cases: Seimitsu LS-32-01 and Sanwa JLF w/flat mounting plate).

As for replacing the main buttons, I would suggest installing 30mm screw-in buttons (pictured here, on the right). Start and select buttons are 24mm and also come in screw-in/snap-in forms. For all buttons, you will have to sand down the tabs that kept the stock buttons in place.

My T5 Hori buttons lasted about 3 years (2004-2007) before the buttons started to go out and I had to mod it… And I didn’t really learn how to mod up until the beginning of this year. The first stick I ever successfully modded was a Mayflash stick (PS2/PS3/USB version of the stick). Mayflash sticks come with weirder stock buttons, but is more mod-friendly, in my opinion, because much of it is made of plastic.

Also I want to add that if you use the screw in crowns buttons from etokki, you might not have to widen the holes.

Okay…I just opened my own AH2 stick to verify things and make sure I’m not going crazy.

So, the AH2 stick has a mounting bracket similar to the HRAP3. This post by jdm714 shows the mounting bracket of the HRAP3:

No modifications needed for the JLF since it comes with one. If you want try it out, the most recommended Seimitsu joystick that will fit this type of bracket is the LS-56-01.

Regarding the stock buttons - if you don’t mind the colors, after desoldering the buttons from the PCB you can swap out the hori microswitches with sanwa switches used in the OBSF-30s. That way you don’t have to grind the tabs off the top plate.

That is right, the AH2 HRAP has non-Universal Mounting Bracket.
Same as in HRAP 3.

I’m just going to Quote my Post.

I also have list for which HRAP have Quick Disconnect and not.
The HRAP FAQ has wrong information, and outdated.
I have the real stuff.

Sorry for a semi-necro bump but could someone confirm whether or not the items in the quoted link fits on the AH2 HRAP? I’m trying to avoid dremeling.

It most definitely will. All the HRAP plastic bases are exactly the same measurements, so this plexi will fit for sure.

I have the Arcana Heart 2 PS2 HRAP and its a pretty nice stick out of the box. However, it does require a “LOT” of work if one wants to modify it. As it has the dreaded Buttons-soldered-to-PCB set up.

I’d built several sticks in the past, but this was THE ONE that forced me to finally learn how to desolder a connection, re-solder, and operate a dremel! Crazy work haha. It was not to bad considering i was a NEWBIE at these things, and i was kinda proud of myself after it was done and my stick was functioning nicely.

Basically i replaced: white ball top with yellow bubble top, Sanwa buttons in prefered colorscheme in place of the Hori, 6 button config, and added custom artwork & plexi purchased from art’s hobbies. Which nicely cover-up the first row of unused button holes btw, no plugs here.

My artwork is now that of the MVC2 TE stick, and i use an adapter for X-Box 360 gameplay.

Edit: And with a little creativity, i was able to keep the original yellow Hori Start/Select buttons, as they worked perfectly fine for their intended purpose.

Thats a good idea. Getting a replacement top panel saves one from having to bother with a dremel to get rid of those pesky tabs for replacement buttons.

Though one still has to be able to desolder the PCB from the original buttons, cut & strip a new set of wires, and then resolder to PCB after. So still a decent bit of work involved. Also there is no mounting plate, everything is wielded onto the stock face panel.

Dremeling is not that hard at all, just annoying. Eh grab a cheap one from wal-mart along with some saftety glasses and get to it.

The “hardest” parts were just making sure i had it set up properly before operation. The rest was a snap.