Project AmpStick: Jumping in balls first

Too late.

Looked at the diagram in the uPCB thread and I got them all correct anyway, but thanks, I’m gonna get to the 1M and 22 here in a minute.


It DOES serve as a nice stand when I want to take pictures, though. :sweat:

This is how you wrote it in the Instructable, right? That’s what I’ve been going by so far.

Don’t want to step on some toes here, but you might want to consider re-writing that for the 2.1 board. I -still- can’t find the place on the new board for the 220 Ohm resistor, and looking at the Instructable, I may not even need it since it’s for an LED option I don’t plan on using. Am I right in assuming this?

New post for new update:

All resistors and jumpers, as well as the 40-pin IC socket have been soldered.

Something came up and will delay testing with multimeter, I will get to that shortly, however.

Don’t sweat it, I dont mind sensible criticism. You’re right, the Instructable covers a previous version, but if I had time to work on it, I’d rather work on making the next rev even easier to use first. The main differences from the Instructable, that board are that the resistors for the eight play buttons option are already there ready to go, and the jumper needed for the power isn’t needed any longer, and the six pin OPT_CON isn’t present on the first rev. If there’s ever any confusion about the components, there’s a labelled image of the rev 2 board in the first post of the UPCB thread with the component ratings.

Okay, testing revealed something that is a little concerning, but I’m not sure it’s a problem.

The two points that are supposed to go to the crystal and 1M Ohm resistor, when tested, were the only ones that provided a resistance below the expected resistance.

Pins 13 and 14 gave me a .984 M Ohm resistance. The instructable didn’t give me hard numbers on what it’s supposed to be above or below. Will this cause problems?

The only resistance between the two clock lines should be the 1 mega ohm resistor, so having it be 0.984 mega ohm is just fine. :slight_smile:

Oh God another question:

I’m going to guess that in the diagram that “C2” is where my other 0.1uF capacitor goes?

EDIT: That’s certainly what it looks like after taking a peek at the 2.0 schematic, but I don’t want to solder until I’m ABSOLUTELY sure.

Crap I missed that when I labelled it. Yes, C2 is where the second 0.1uF cap goes.

Capacitors, crystal, and PTC Fuse soldered in.

Work and testing will resume after I get a bite to eat.

Testing came back positive. Will install ICSP as soon as I have a new question answered:

In the Instructable, it’s says to install the Molex KK header with the wall facing the silk screened letters. However, the rev2 board and the rev2 diagram show a big ol’ thick white line that makes me want to think THAT’s where the wall goes. Am I right?

Correct. The big ole’ white should go on top of the big white line. Also make sure the notch in the IDC connectors matches the notch in the silkscreen. You should see a little triangle on the IDC connectors as well that also matches the triangles on the board.

Here’s something unexpected

3 of the pins on the output IDC for some reason almost fell through the thing…

The pins still stick out of the other end of the PCB, all good to solder. So I tried to connect the corresponding male IDC, and it didn’t give me any trouble.

I went ahead and finished up the soldering on the output, I don’t -think- this should cause a big problem, since as mentioned the pins were still sticking out of the other end and the male connector went into the female just fine.

All sixteen pins need to be there. They may move around in the conector until they’re soldered in, you do need all of the to be there. You can adjust the height they’re soldered at, but definitely find the missing pin and try to get them all in and level.

You misread, I think…

None of the pins actually went missing or completely fell through. It’s just that now three of them are slightly “taller” than the rest in the IDC.

I’m gonna hit the sack, I’ll finish the uPCB soldering, and try to get the output IDC pins all level tomorrow, too tired to try and devise a way to do this though.

Yo, Toodles, BIG props and thanks for the help today. Hope I wasn’t too big a pain in the ass.

ah, cool. It looked like a pin was missing in the photo. Getting them all level should just be a matter of using the iron on the solder and using a pair of needle nose pliers to move it down. (Don’t use your fingers, they get hot. Been burned way too much doing that. :))

Don’t sweat the help, I just didn’t realize who you were on AIM. :slight_smile: Always happy to help to get one of these up and going.

The uPCB itself is complete

The needlenose pliers thing worked perfectly, Toodles, thanks man.
I didn’t get them -perfectly- level, but certainly close to it.

And a little shot of my soldering job.
Wasn’t that tough for my first time. :pleased:

man, you picked a hell of ah thing to be your first project. good job so far though

Looks like I really fucked up, as in it’s gonna cost me some money, now.

In my enthused curiosity, three of my four IDC male connectors straight up broke. The legs that attach the top to the bottom snapped off after trying to take the connector apart.

Yes, I broke three of them.

Note to self: Handle with fucking care, and do not put male IDC’s together unless you’re completely ready and have cable in the thing.

Off to digi-key to order replacements.

EDIT: @Sex Instructor:

Yeah, it’s as much a learning project as it is just getting it done though. Killing 2 birds with one stone, etc. And I love to learn about shit.

My box just came in, and there’s two problems I noticed when fiddling with it.

  1. There seems to be only room enough for a single PCB. I dunno if the PCB from my 360 piggyback will fit on the control panel. I think I can make it work if I mount one of the PCB’s to the bottom panel instead of the top, though, so we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it.

  2. …Well, the picture should speak for itself.

My LS-32-01 is not gonna fit in its current state. Can anyone say if the Seimitsu RE flat plate has smaller dimensions than the SS plate?

I’m debating if the better idea is either to get a flat mounting plate, or take a wood file to the case’s control panel and widen the hole a bit.

EDIT: Shot better demonstrating the oddity:

The top is made from MDF. You can use a sharp knife (exacto or razor) to enlarge the recess to accept the plate. If you take off the trigger pots and thumbsticks of the 360 pad you will get a bit more vertical room. Make sure you solder some 4.7k resistors in their place. More detailed information over in the pad hack thread.

Keep posting your progress, I’ll be following from here on.


the flat mounting plate is about the same width at it’s widest point. if you notice on the s plate it gets wider at the top part and narrower where it curves down, the flat plate is as wide as the wider part of the s plate all around. check with the case manufacturer to see what he routes out for stick-wise. worse case scenario you might have to file it wider a little to fit your ls-32-01, or if the hole isn’t routed deep enough buy yourself a flat plate.

good job on the soldering. looks great for a first time soldering project.

edit: kaytrim beat me to it.