Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

hyp36rmax · 2017-01-31T19:48:41.000Z

Jasen_Hicks:

hyp36rmax:

What’s the advantage of the kaimana Kameleon LED with USB switching? Help me understand.

Its easier to install on the Brook UFB or PS360+

It can be hard mounted so it wont jiggle around or get loose.

You dont have to open the case to get to the USB jack on the KK to reprogram it.

Thanks! I own the kaimana mini and it mounted on the brook ufb 20 pin with a solid connection. So basically not having to open up my stick to access the mini USB to reprogram is the difference and a great convenience.

jjsparx · 2017-01-31T22:29:36.000Z

Jasen_Hicks:

You dont have to open the case to get to the USB jack on the KK to reprogram it.

Maybe a stupid question, but how do you get to the USB jack without opening the fightstick case? I have the Khameleon and plug my mini USB directly into the Kaimana board to program or update it (which involves opening my fightstick).

Can you just plug the USB from the back of the fightstick into the PC to program etc? I normally have it connected to my PS4 all the time (then opne it up and connect the Kaimana to my PC when needed), but it might be useful if I can just connect direct to my PC.

Thanks.

therobin · 2017-02-01T09:54:04.000Z

@armi0024 What’s the lightest shaft for the JLF/Hayabusa? Is the hollow titanium lighter than the stock?

Murphy0X · 2017-02-02T00:36:24.000Z

therobin:

@armi0024 What’s the lightest shaft for the JLF/Hayabusa? Is the hollow titanium lighter than the stock?

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=11005

That’s a pretty good article to explain the difference between metals. Assuming you’re comparing to an aluminum shaft, titanium is about twice as dense as aluminum so it should be twice as heavy as a shaft of the same size made of aluminum. Obviously a hollow shaft is a lot less material so it may still end up being lighter. A hollow aluminum shaft will definitely be lighter though. The advantage of titanium is the strength; aluminum is soft and bends easier. Unless you’re exerting enough force on your shaft to bend it (unlikely without two hands and a lot of pressure) the titanium shaft isn’t really neccessary.

Darksakul · 2017-02-02T03:44:51.000Z

Murphy0X:

therobin:

@armi0024 What’s the lightest shaft for the JLF/Hayabusa? Is the hollow titanium lighter than the stock?

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=11005

That’s a pretty good article to explain the difference between metals. Assuming you’re comparing to an aluminum shaft, titanium is about twice as dense as aluminum so it should be twice as heavy as a shaft of the same size made of aluminum. Obviously a hollow shaft is a lot less material so it may still end up being lighter. A hollow aluminum shaft will definitely be lighter though. The advantage of titanium is the strength; aluminum is soft and bends easier. Unless you’re exerting enough force on your shaft to bend it (unlikely without two hands and a lot of pressure) the titanium shaft isn’t really neccessary.

No one makes an Aluminum Shaft. Most are Steel.
The Hallow titanium shaft is lighter than the normal JLF/Hayabusa shaft.

darian117 · 2017-02-02T18:36:41.000Z

First off, major props to ParadiseArcade. I love that you guys are a local business for me. Everything I’ve gotten for my first stick as worked extremely well. I do have an issue I’m running into and hoping someone can help. I have all the Kaimana Mini LED and board setup correctly, but I can’t seem to upload the Arduino code back to the board. One of the steps involves selecting the port for Arduino but it is grayed out for me and I don’t see Ports in Device Manager. I’m on Windows 8.1 and it sounds like it is an issue with that operating system. Anyone figure out a workaround for this?

therobin · 2017-02-03T07:09:12.000Z

Just realized I asked the wrong question. I meant to ask if the hollow titanium is lighter than the hollow stainless.

TAUNT · 2017-02-04T17:59:07.000Z

I ordered these switches https://paradisearcadeshop.com/omron-microswitches/1489-omron-drrvg-reed-microswitch.html?search_query=omron+microswitch&results=7

They were advertised as the exact same switches used in the silent Sanwa JLF, problem is that they’re not because of the metal tab. Is there a way to remove the tab or should I get a refund?

hyp36rmax · 2017-02-06T20:20:44.000Z

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

TAUNT · 2017-02-07T06:52:37.000Z

TAUNT:

I ordered these switches https://paradisearcadeshop.com/omron-microswitches/1489-omron-drrvg-reed-microswitch.html?search_query=omron+microswitch&results=7

They were advertised as the exact same switches used in the silent Sanwa JLF, problem is that they’re not because of the metal tab. Is there a way to remove the tab or should I get a refund?

https://i.imgur.com/ZXtCLzI.jpg

Got a quick response from Susan, honest mistake and they’re taking care of it and some

hyp36rmax · 2017-02-07T20:37:29.000Z

Just ordered the MX Cherry conversions. Planning on mounting a set of GMK QMX-Clip Sound Dampeners on them to silence the clicks since these are compatible with PCB mounted switches. This should be a perfect solution.

Currently for sale through Massdrop for about $22 USD. Also available directly through Uniqey

Here’s a review for those that are interested at keychatter.com

hyp36rmax · 2017-02-07T20:46:03.000Z

Another topic is how about a Topre style elctrostatic capacitive key switch conversion with MX Cherry stems (sliders) that work with the current mx plungers to save on tooling? These actually have a faster actuation than MX Cherry. I’m a mechanical keyboard enthusiast as well, and would love to see this implemented on a fight stick.

StrtFghtrMstr · 2017-02-08T00:47:31.000Z

hyp36rmax:

https://paradisearcadeshop.com/5179-thickbox_default/obs-mx-brown-switch.jpg

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

hyp36rmax · 2017-02-08T01:27:39.000Z

StrtFghtrMstr:

hyp36rmax:

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

Ok cool! Thanks for clarifying. I had ordered the MX browns with PCB and red OBS-MX plungers with the intent of mounting them on the clear rims along with the Kaimana LED’s.

I have rubber o-rings available to mount to silence it. The only problem is it doesn’t mute the up travel. I’ll play around with it as soon as they arrive. Another option is the Zealenico Silencing Clips, that are great for plate mounted switches and possibly a better fit inside a Sanwa housing.

Another link: Zeals

StrtFghtrMstr · 2017-02-08T07:10:49.000Z

hyp36rmax:

StrtFghtrMstr:

hyp36rmax:

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

Ok cool! Thanks for clarifying. I had ordered the MX browns with PCB and red OBS-MX plungers with the intent of mounting them on the clear rims along with the Kaimana LED’s.

I have rubber o-rings available to mount to silence it. The only problem is it doesn’t mute the up travel. I’ll play around with it as soon as they arrive. Another option is the Zealenico Silencing Clips, that are great for plate mounted switches and possibly a better fit inside a Sanwa housing.

Another link: Zeals

Nice find, report results please, always good to have options!

LordGlyph · 2017-02-08T07:11:33.000Z

Happy to report as of 2/7/17, LVT3 software is fully functional and operating as normal. Thanx for the help @SusanInParadise and @armi0024 and give my thanx to the developer as well

crnaruka · 2017-02-08T10:02:42.000Z

hyp36rmax:

StrtFghtrMstr:

hyp36rmax:

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

Ok cool! Thanks for clarifying. I had ordered the MX browns with PCB and red OBS-MX plungers with the intent of mounting them on the clear rims along with the Kaimana LED’s.

I have rubber o-rings available to mount to silence it. The only problem is it doesn’t mute the up travel. I’ll play around with it as soon as they arrive. Another option is the Zealenico Silencing Clips, that are great for plate mounted switches and possibly a better fit inside a Sanwa housing.

Another link: Zeals

I have Zealencio clips. When I put them to my OBS-MX switches, the plungers stick and don’t move.
Also they don’t fit to Gamerfinger HBFSs, too.

StrtFghtrMstr · 2017-02-08T17:30:48.000Z

crnaruka:

hyp36rmax:

StrtFghtrMstr:

hyp36rmax:

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

Ok cool! Thanks for clarifying. I had ordered the MX browns with PCB and red OBS-MX plungers with the intent of mounting them on the clear rims along with the Kaimana LED’s.

I have rubber o-rings available to mount to silence it. The only problem is it doesn’t mute the up travel. I’ll play around with it as soon as they arrive. Another option is the Zealenico Silencing Clips, that are great for plate mounted switches and possibly a better fit inside a Sanwa housing.

Another link: Zeals

I have Zealencio clips. When I put them to my OBS-MX switches, the plungers stick and don’t move.
Also they don’t fit to Gamerfinger HBFSs, too.

OK thanks, I’ll stick with the o-rings then.

hyp36rmax · 2017-02-08T20:22:59.000Z

crnaruka:

hyp36rmax:

StrtFghtrMstr:

hyp36rmax:

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

Ok cool! Thanks for clarifying. I had ordered the MX browns with PCB and red OBS-MX plungers with the intent of mounting them on the clear rims along with the Kaimana LED’s.

I have rubber o-rings available to mount to silence it. The only problem is it doesn’t mute the up travel. I’ll play around with it as soon as they arrive. Another option is the Zealenico Silencing Clips, that are great for plate mounted switches and possibly a better fit inside a Sanwa housing.

Another link: Zeals

I have Zealencio clips. When I put them to my OBS-MX switches, the plungers stick and don’t move.
Also they don’t fit to Gamerfinger HBFSs, too.

Thanks for the input! Do you know where the interference is coming from? Is the Zealencio rubbing the plunger causing it to stick? If you have any extra’s i’d like to look into it.

crnaruka · 2017-02-09T04:02:54.000Z

hyp36rmax:

crnaruka:

hyp36rmax:

StrtFghtrMstr:

hyp36rmax:

Link: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-switches/1623-obs-mx-brown-switch.html

Does the MX Cherry Switch conversion have the PCB already soldered with the adapter cable? Or is it just the physical switch?

So basically all i’ll need is the plunger if I already have the rim correct?

•You’ll need to buy their OBS-MX plungers ( I have the smoked and clears, wish they came in more options)
•The switch is presoldered to the pcb.
•The QD adapter cable is plug and play, no soldering required.

If you already have switched you could get away with just buying OBS-MX plungers with OBFS-30mm rims you already have. You’ld have to solder your button leads directly to the Switch or make your own QD adapters and solder directly that to the switch yourself though.

I’ve also effectively silenced mine with rubber o-rings, they decrease the actuation time as well.

Ok cool! Thanks for clarifying. I had ordered the MX browns with PCB and red OBS-MX plungers with the intent of mounting them on the clear rims along with the Kaimana LED’s.

I have rubber o-rings available to mount to silence it. The only problem is it doesn’t mute the up travel. I’ll play around with it as soon as they arrive. Another option is the Zealenico Silencing Clips, that are great for plate mounted switches and possibly a better fit inside a Sanwa housing.

Another link: Zeals

I have Zealencio clips. When I put them to my OBS-MX switches, the plungers stick and don’t move.
Also they don’t fit to Gamerfinger HBFSs, too.

Thanks for the input! Do you know where the interference is coming from? Is the Zealencio rubbing the plunger causing it to stick? If you have any extra’s i’d like to look into it.

For OBS-MX,

Yes, corners of the clips contact the insides of the plungers.
Even without this sticking, the clips may not reduce the sound of the upward travel, since the plungers have their own stoppers.

For HBFS, the clips interfere with the entire rim of switch housing.