You see the sides are not flush and when you press down it snaps back up. The latch looks good and it looks but it’s not completely closed due to those sides
I think it’s just the design. It’s just than in videos it looks flush on top
Cleaning the adhesive on the back of the stock art and the metal panel below it was a major pain in the ass! It seems like double-sided tape with very sticky/stubborn adhesive was used: one strip above and one below the buttons, one on each side of the lever hole, and one for each of the four borders. If you want to do it yourself, you’ll need a putty knife and some Goo Gone. The artwork is laminated with glossy plastic, so you shouldn’t have to worry about the art getting ripped when you pull it off (you can crease it if you bend it too far though).
At least everything is all done and clean. That will make changing the layout panel and related tasks easier to do later. I did scratch/cut away a couple of small spots of the art/plexi plastic guide (the plastic part around the metal plate), but it’s really minor. I can buff it down and it won’t be noticeable. Just watch out for that yourself.
I don’t understand why the art is glued/taped on; you have the plexi, bezel, and guides to keep it in place already. It just seems unnecessary.
A throwback from MadCatz’s TE-S days.
For those curious about changing the layout panel I made some measurements. The metal panel is 12" x 7 1/16" and it laid flat with a piece of 22ga steel. I bought an 11x14x.093 sheet of plexiglass from Home Depot and it’s thickness matches up smoothly with the TE2’s metal plate + art and clear top. My clear top was a bit loose, it had wiggle room, so I’m betting that replacing the metal panel with the plexi will still leave sufficient room for a new clear panel on top. I’ll let y’all know my results tonight.
In other news I wanted to share that in removing the buttons I also had a few tabs break. It’s really awkward but they do feel like a poorer plastic, they feel a bit cheap and I’m happy I’m replacing them. Also the screws to remove the bezel were on tight enough to spin the screwdriver’s shaft in the handle. Other than those two issues though it’s a gorgeous stick, with everything being very tidy and well compartmentalized inside. Something I particularly like was that they included a label inside for which colored wires go to which buttons. I’m very happy with my purchase, even if it’s because I already had replacement buttons.
Why did you remove the art though? If you’re changing the layout panel, you’ll get a new metal plate with new art when Mad Catz releases it or if you’re going custom then the new layout won’t fit the current art because the button holes won’t match so either way you could of just removed the metal panel with the art to put on a new layout panel.
The art covers the screws that you need to remove to replace the layout. You have to peel back the art to remove the layout panel. The glue/tape used to secure the art is also attached to both the layout panel and the rest of the lid, so even if you were able to magic the screws out from under the art it would still be glued to the rest of the stick.
True I forgot about that, thinking about the screw less plexi made me forget about the screws needed for the metal panel lol
Haven’t got a reply for weeks now, would really like to know if I can get a replacement plexi/artwork/top panel etc.
There is always Tek Innovations
http://tek-innovations.mediathree.net/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=21
Anyone from Ontario order the Persona stick and still haven’t got theirs or am I the only one still waiting on mine?
Did you not get a tracking number? I got one when I ordered my Xrd stick and it was shipped Purolator Express and took about 5 days to get to Ontario
Looking at the art panel closely, it looks like there are a couple of small air bubbles in the laminate. I don’t know if it was there to begin with or if I caused it when I took off the art panel, but it looks like making and keeping a backup of the art is out of the question, as I’m no good at retouching graphics to fix the blemishes. I did notice that the art was most likely printed through an offset printing press (I took a graphic arts class in high school that had one).
I’m just going to pop it in an envelope and put it in storage. I’ll print out a blank white template as a substitute until I can make something better.
Yes, the shipping label was created a week ago and nothing has changed since.
Can somebody with both a TE2 and an MLG Pro Circuit controller test if the USB cords are interchangable, or if I missed it earlier in the thead confirm?
Edit: I used search. It looks like they are.
I’m in the same boat but I live in Alberta and looking at tracking information right now it says purolator haven’t even picked it up yet.
Is the cable available to buy seperately should the need arise?
So I got my P4U TE2 and finished modding it.
http://i.imgur.com/yLGTGDz.jpg
The important thing to note is that I used Seimitsu PS-14-GN’s
http://i.imgur.com/resCSb5.jpg
I know that d3v posted a review of the GG XRD TE2 earlier this month and stated "it’s still nearly impossible (at least without some modification) to use a screw-in X button due to the spacing of the stick putting the edge of the button right by the mounting bracket."
There was no need for me to modify anything in order to fit in the screw-in X button. All you need to do is put the screw up to the bottom of the hole first, then you just feed the button through the screw from the top.
I did the same thing to my TE2. Yeah there is no problem if you use the semitsu rings, it’s the sawna rings that give you trouble. The PCB case also makes it a bit tricker to get a Semitsu stick in there.
Anyone put a Hayabusa stick in? wonder if the PCB case gets in the way