hey guys, was wondering how it is to put sanwa parts onto a pelican. is it much harder than a happ setup?
Well, once you gut the pelican, and depending on if you want the feathers to be on it or not, it can be pretty easy. But why shove good parts into a otherwise fine, healthy, living bird?
cause the healthy bird doesnt have japanese parts haha
Compared to american parts, putting japanese parts into one of those wooden pelicans would be a ton more work. With american parts, its just swapping them out. Japanese parts are made to work on sheet metal control panels, very thin compared to the wood in most american arcade cabinets and the wood used on the pelicans. With japanese parts, you would need to moify the box somehow, such as routing out the wood or cutting big holes in the wood and mounting plexi over it.
Hi Spiffy, Armad, or anyone who knows the answer!
I have a Hori PS stick (the older one) where the buttons directly make contact to the PCB, similar to a regular controller. I want to add Sanwa buttons in the future. How do I add buttons if the PCB contacts are facing the buttons? My Hori Neo stick had the contacts on the oposite side and I was able to remove the old solder and resolder the Sanwa buttons.
Have either of you or anyone else in these threads acomplished this type of mod? Thanks
Hey dudes.
No real modding involved in this question, but it relates to Sanwa sticks. Anyone ever tried the JLF-TM series of Sanwa sticks?
http://www.sanwa-d.co.jp/p_joy-stick3.htm
The only difference I can see is that there’s no PCB, and different microswitches. If anyone has tried it, how does it compare to the JLF-TP sticks (the ones most of you guys are using)?
Thanks.
Edit: According to the site, the JLF-TM sticks are being discontinued and won’t be sold after August of next year, so I guess my post was pretty pointless. I don’t think that message was there when I wrote this post though.
Sorry to bring up such an old post, but how did you change to colors on the L1/L2 buttons? I’d imagine you simply repainted them, but they look too clean to be simply painted, like they were meant to be that color.
I changed the green buttons on my HRAP today to real Sanwas.
It looks like this now http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload8/arc004x.JPG
It look a little like a toy doesn’t it? Hehe 
And once again, the clean, well-organised inside is just great:
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload8/arc001x.JPG
I made some changes to my custom sanwa. Home built box based on blueprint from Darkside. Before, I had the sides slightly raised, but it cramped my hands. Now the top is flat. It’s a Sanwa Flash, Octagonal Gate and Sanwa Screw pushbuttons
Main thing was I had alot of trouble playing with a balltop. I switched it out for a bat top and now I can finally play as well as I can on US sticks.
Quick question. I’m top mounting my sanwa joystick like in arm’s pics on his site and I heard the hole for the stick has to be a bit smaller or the dust cover will expose the hole when you move the stick. Which size do I use to drill the lexan?
Thanks
I just drilled mine with a 1 1/8 inch bit. You can never see the hole if the dust cover is on.
I ended up just painting them with some special spray paint for plastics I picked up at Auto Zone. I originaly was just going to swap out the buttons in the red stick with some red buttons from a NES pad but I didn’t like the way they felt so I decided to try painting the original Namco buttons. It worked so well that I did it agian for the white buttons on my second stick. You can’t hardly tell the buttons weren’t supposed to be that color.
7/8" is usually good or you could go even smaller if you wanted. I know some one who drilled their hole 1-1/8" and you could see the hole under the dust washer when you moved the joystick.
Thanks spiff. I’ll have to go get a 7/8 bit. Not one in my box.
Does anyone know if the sanwa joystick and buttons fit exactly into a dreamcast agetec joystick? I mean do they fit inside the agetec exactly? Like you don’t have to do any extra drilling or anything? I just turned it into a ps2 joystick and its awesome. My once dreamcast agetec joystick is now a PS2 first party joystick! Yay!
Nope they don’t fit. The buttons in the Agitec are slightly smaller than the sanwa ones so you would have to enlarge the holes in order to get sanwa buttons to fit. It’s not that hard to do just takes a few minuets using a file. The Sanwa stick doesn’t fit perfectly in the agitec either so you’d have to drill some new holes for mounting the stick but you could counter sink them under the metal plate so they aren’t visible.
Hey, I’ve been browsing this forum for a couple of months now, finally decided to make my own joystick considering that I found a Series A PS1 Dual Shock controller. Since I suck at soldering period, I’m going to use SpiffyShoes tutorial for the solderless hack, which seems to be really simple. My main concern is making the box, which I have a couple of questions about.
What is the difference between top and bottom mounting the joystick?
What is the difference between screw and clip type of buttons?
Which would be easiest to work with?
What size and type of wood would work well?
I’m really sorry if these questions have been answered, but my mind is very hazy right now after reading this entire thread along with a good portion of the official custom stick thread.
Totally noob at sticks, I want to learn how to ‘not’ top mount a Sanwa stick, as in the other way, uh…bottom mounting or something? I want it to be like this guy’s stick, as in the bolts/plate doesn’t show, or is that just artwork covering it? Help or tutorial would be definetely appreciated, thanks.
:pleased:
Edit: Also, I want to know about the solderless hack if it HAS to have the ribbon circuit board to work, because mines just has the film strip connecting into the terminal.
Is it safe to bottom mount a Sanwa onto 1/2" MDF + 1/8" Lexan or should I top mount instead? Or can I mount it onto the Lexan itself (the Lexan is supported by the MDF)?
If your going to mount on the lexan you still need to cut the giant hole to bottom mount it. if you specifically wanted to do that I guess you could, But I would just top mount it. I used 1/2 particle board so 1/2 is cool, but the shaft is going to be alot shorter than it would be if you top mounted. I don’t mind the short shaft really but it’s up to you.