So as TRNG says for example, if you lexan/plexi is 2mm thick, then 6mm top route for Sanwa JLF. For Seitmitsu, just the depth of the mounting plate. Basically for Sanwa you want a total of 8mm to be hidden from the bottom of the plate.
~Paik
Ok, now, when I mount this LS-32, I just rout out the depth of the mounting plate to top mount it, what size wood do I get? these screw ins don’t look that long.
For Sanwa I always have 9mm in total. So if I am using 3mm lexan (1/8") then I would rout out 6mm of the wood. Shaftlength left is 25mm.
http://arkadesticks.com/joregn.jpg
This is with mountingplate, don`t forget that.
Also, for the LS-32, You should mount it as high as possible so rout out 2mm of the top and countersink the holes in the plate a little bit and screw it down. Or maybe you do it in another way.
maybe I could just counter sink the HELL out of it and hammer it in…
Just kidding. I’m getting the parts now, thanks for all the help.
Could someone explain countersinking to me fully? I know there are special counter sinking pieces for drills but is it possible to counter sink without them?
As far as I remember (from school mind you) counter sunk screws “counter sink” them selves when you screw them in. I’m sure there’s a method to actually counter sink the wood though, but it escapes me right now, sorry.
Well if you want to countersink in wood, you can just drill hole the size of the head of the screw your using and drill it as deep (or maybe a little less since tightening the screw will make it go lower and become flush) as the head of the screw. Also if you don’t already, you should drill pilot holes for your screws that are just under the size of the threads. It’s much easier than trying to screw them in by hand.
I’ve had problem countersinking is the metal plates I used since they are 2mm plates. Other than that, countersinking is easy.
~Paik
The best bits for countersinking are these:
countersink set
There are really expensive ones but these are good for the money. They work in pretty much anything. There are also some other bits called single flute countersinks that are particularly good in plastic but they’re around $40 a set.
Oooh, those would be so nice to have, especially for the metal plates, I’m working with…althought I wouldn’t need all three of those…but the price is pretty cheap. I’ll have to see what the price is like at local hardware stores for just one. Thanks Nite!
~Paik
No prob. Make sure you get either the tin coated or the HSS types. High carbon steel won’t last drilling metal.
Thanks ALOT for the info. Does drilling a pilot hole prevent splitting? Because i’ve been practising to drill and the woods been splitting =/
Definitely prevents splitting. I work mostly in MDF and without pilot holes splits a plenty. Use a drill bit that’s about the same size as the screw’s thickness without the threads. Also don’t overtighten. If you have a drill with clutch settings set it very low. This way if you keep the button pressed the clutch engages and won’t turn the screw further.
hello
i am currently building my first stick which happens to be a sanwa stick, from byrdo’s design on his site. I was looking on himuragames.com and i was wondering which sanwa stick to buy? Do i need a mounting plate? And lastly should top mount or bottom mount the stick? Which one is easier?
Thank you and sorry for all the questions.
kprime, hopefully your questions were answered by now but if now here goes:
You’ll want a JLF-TP-8YT. That is JLF with flat mounting plate (although any mounting plate is fine as long as you know how to mount it correctly). You’ll most likely need a mounting plate especially for top mounting which is what most people do and honestly is easier.
Now that that is done, I wanted to post a question of my own. I’m trying to build an Xbox stick that supports the headset. I’ve honestly never even tried to hack an XB because well 1) I don’t own one…and 2) I prefer to do my usual PS stick and just use one of the adapters that I have. However, I’m trying to build one for a customer and he requires headset support. I don’t mind learning how to do it, I just couldn’t find any answers while doing a search of the joystick threads and never recall seeing a tutorial on it when I had originally read this thread and the Offical Custom Stick I and II threads. Any information on how tough this is and so forth would be appreciated. Thanks.
~Paik
If you use a PCB that is hack friendly adding the live headset port is simply a matter of placing the PCB correctly and making the correct hole in the wood. The simpler method is to desolder the port from the PCB and resolder it with longer wires (5 I think). This way you have a bit more flexability in mounting it.
The street fighter xbox pad PCB and the SFAC joystick (the big one) come to mind. Also the Gamestar reflex.
Can someone point me into the direction of tutorial of the Namco mod w/ the sanwa joystick with no interchanged namco parts(IE namco stick w/ all sanwa joystick)
So what is the best way to countersink the metal? Using a countersinking drill bit? Has anyone tried any other methods to countersinking the metal plate?
starboy
I used regular countersink drill-bit (although I must admit I could have done a better job on the Seimitsu-mod).
Seimitsu-mod (LS-32-01):
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam1.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam2.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam3.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam4.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam5.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam6.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Seinam7.JPG
Sanwa (JLF-TP-8Y) mod:
http://arkadesticks.com/namcomoden.htm
http://arkadesticks.com/Namcosanwafinished.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/namcoback1.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/namcoback2.JPG
http://arkadesticks.com/Namcosanwapcbc.JPG
Nice pics TheRealNeoGeo :tup:. I always thought the other namco guide seemed a bit off as far as fitting the shaft inside the case- but when I googled it a while back I came across this guide you posted on another forum- great stuff:wgrin:
So the Seimitsu would require more clearance than a sanwa? I keep hearing mixed opinions about people who use them. Are they stiffer/ more responsive than sanwa? They also come with both a square and octagonal gate right with a longer shaft? I guess thats one advantage, but what is the defining difference between them? I hear the Seimitsu sticks are used in 2d fighter arcade cabinets and that Sanwa is used in the 3d ones. But the overall opinion that see is that the Sanwa JLF+octogonal gate= pwnage over the Seimitsu
Sanwa does require a tiny bit more clearance, but nothing major. People get confused about the adjustable restrictor that the Seimitsus have. They can be switched from 2-way, 4-way, or 8-way action. That does NOT mean they have an octogon restrictor. That that means is the 2-way you can only move the joystick and hit the up and down levered switches. 4-way means you can hit up, down, left, and right but NO diagonals (e.g. df or ub), and 8-way is a standard square gate.
Seimtisus have shorter throws. Again many people don’t understand what this means. This just means the joystick doesn’t move as far in any direction and thus activates the microswitches with less movement in any direction. Some people like this, some people don’t. They are a bit stiffer. As far as responsiveness/performance, I don’t know exactly since I’m not sure if the microswitches they use are different aside from Seimitsu’s being levered microswitches. The shaft is shorter than a Sanwa.
The 2D and 3D thing is something I hear a lot about but can’t say for sure. I think it’s more a rumor that started from one person saying so and just grew into a “fact.” But it could also be true. I’ve never been to Japan so I couldn’t say.
~Paik