actually there are three bodies of Sanwas that I’ve seen. The RAP stick had a normal plated JLF. I don’t have the serial number for the older one but it looks like a Seimitsu.
The two newer ones are the JLF and the JLW based sticks. From there there are different variants of these main bodies and different smaller options aside from those main ones. Mounting plates, handles, shafts, PCB styles etc…
So if I was to purchase the regular JLF-TP-8Y from himura games…how would I mount it without the plate?
If it had a plate, i’d have to route out an edged hole through the top of my stick and use mount the plate on top recessed and then cover it with the art and plexi…But thats a pain in the ass
I haven’t done much stick building, but I think I could build a happ with my eyes closed, so I wanna give Sanwas a try.
doesn’t anyone have any information on what’d it be like if I made a custom stick with the top being one sheet of metal? would it be flimsy at all? would I be able to use screw on buttons? any comments on how it would look - I plan on adding artwork, but which paper would “hide” the metal the best? the rest of the box owuld be wood, but since I’m going sanwa, I figured the sheet metal top would be easier than top mounting onto would cuz Id need tools that I don’t have.
If you want to mount the stick without any bolt heads showing, you’ll have to weld a mounting bracket underneath, and thread some holes for a bolt to screw into. Here’s a pic of the bracket on a Tekken 5 stick, look around for a pic of the one on a real HRAP; its much nicer. http://pages.sbcglobal.net/clockworkorange/hori/hori5.jpg
I modded my Namco stick on Friday, and it look and feels awesome. I did find out though that instead of using the original short shaft from the Namco, that you can use a shaft from another Hori stick (in this case a Tekken 5 stick) instead, which has the bottom half the exact same length as a Namco stick, and the top half the exact same length as a Sanwa stick. True sanwa length handle but still in the compact Namco case.
However, I’m running into a very annoying problem with the actuator and switches. With the original Namco actuator, everything felt nice, except the stick would have a tedency to get caught pressing ‘up’ when in neutral. Opened it back up and took a look at everything. It seems that when the stick returns to the neutral, the actuator is barely touching the red part of the microswitch. The red part ‘pops’ out like it should, but needs to move a bare fraction of a millimeter more before the internal spring clicks back to normal. I compared the Namco actuator with the Sanwa actuator, saw the wide portion of the Namco was a bit wider than the Sanwa. So I trimmed down the thin part of the Sanwa actuator so it was exactly the same hight as the Namco actuator, and swapped them.
The sticky ‘up’ problem was fixed. Now I’m running into a new problem with corners. In order to register a corner, it has to be EXACT. Im think the space for it to be a diagonal feels like about 15 degrees. Most noticable with jumping, when diagonal jumping turns into a straight up jump about 1/4 of the time. Also a problem for dragon punches and supers; some qcfx2 moves end up showing d, d/f, f, d, f in training mode.
If anyone whos dealt with sanwa modded namcos has any recommendations to relieve either of these problems, please let know.
couple questions do i need a certain size quick disconnect to fit on the sanwa buttons, and which ps2 pcb has the biggest soldering areas, sorry if these have been asked but quick disconnect came up with no matches on the search and 24 pages is to much to read for one question
You really don’t want a PS2 PCB, I don’t think those can be hacked, your looking for a PS1 dual shock or a 3rd party maker of PS1 pads, the 3rd party pads almost always have huge points to solder to, but on alot of the PS1 dual shocks, the points aren’t THAT small. Some are easier then others.
In the Custom Stick thread, rotendo has a dead link that says what quick disconnects fit american joysticks, but I don’t know if it’s the same for the Sanwas.
EDIT: If you go out buying a Dual Shock, try for an A series, you don’t even have to solder those boys, if their the right A series, look for a see thru one, and see if you can see a white strip in the upper right corner. All you do is plug in wire to the ribbon terminal thats already on the PCB, and then run the wires to the stick and buttons. Easyville. Check out “SpiffyShoes Solderless hack” or something like that, in this forum.
What are some recommendations on mounting a sanwa stick?
I’m currently mounting into plexiglass, but it seems I’m going to need to mount carriage bolts to hold it in. I would like a mount where I have a completely smooth area around the stick.
It seems 1/4 inch pleixglass actually a little thick if I am correct in assuming the mounting plate is the correct thickness for a proper mount.
A note for those thinking of modding a Tekken 5 stick: Do NOT get screw in Sanwa buttons, at least for the 30mm buttons. The button holes are just too close together to work, unless you want to shave down the outside of almost all of the orange rings.
Any advice on my Namco problem above would be appreciated.
Actually, on one of my T5 stick mods, (the first one) I used screw-in buttons. Although they all fit, it was a pain in the ass to screw in the last two. I didnt shave the orange ring nuts.
Yes, its possible. My thumbs are killing me right now. The four farthest from the stick are easy, then the last four get progressively harder, until I had to shake a bit off of two rings toget the last button in flat.
Jesus Tap-Dancing Christ, I wish I had gotten snap-ins though. If the snap in 24mm’s I got are any indication, they are in NO risk of moving around once installed.
yo does the sanwa with the mounting plate come with the screws and all that shit or do i gotta pull out the draw o’ crap i get paid on friday so i wanna know everything before i order
You can overlap the screwin buttons in order for them to work. They’re like gears almost, with a ring on one end. So some of them will have to be kinda floating, not touching the surface of the control panel.
Truetech: sanwa with mounting plate doesn’t come with screws. The only screws it has are the ones that mount the stick to the mounting plate. To mount the palte to your box you’ll need to get your own screws. Ace hardwares sell screws individually.
k another question do i have to solder the directions to the stick or can i use the 5 pin connecter i’m looking at my stick and i notice he soldered it to directly to the stick i’m hoping i can just use the 5 pin connecter to save me some soldering, and if i can how would i do it?
