1481

How do you tell the difference between the old lock switch and the new lock switch?

1482

Original Lock Switch locks Home/Guide.
New Lock Switch (introduced in TE “S”) locks Home/Guide along with Select/Back and Start.

1483

@toodles

Hey toodles, not sure if you remember me. I was the one that posted the tutorial at SRK for the FG widget and the KNserts for LED. The one with the custom female white artwork. I also dual modded a PS3 stick for Xbox360 with the toodles IMP selector and a Xbox PCB. Here is the link.

I think I have the skillset to do mods, and stuff, but I really like the term, “The Simpler The Better”. In other words, I had no idea it was so much easier to go from Xbox 360 to PS3, then vice versa. I like to have the least amount of wires, and boards in their, so easier to diagnose when it goes bad. I still have my stick, and it is working quite well. But I wanted to pick up more sticks. I actually have the Street Fighter X Tekken TE Pro Stick. Reading on the forums, the TE Kitty board is actually a GREAT PRODUCT! I am really interested in purchasing a couple of these for my SFXT Stick. Do these TE Kitty boards work on these with the TE-S wire harness? If so, you have sold me and purchasing soon.

From what I am understanding…
TE Kitty - Madcats TE Version 1, and Version 2. Lock Button Does Not Lock Start and Select.
TE - S Kitty - Madcats TE Version 3. TE-S Models, Super Street Fighter IV and ChunLi. Has slim sides. Lock Button Locks Start and Select.
TE - S Kitty? - Madcats TE Version 4. New Mold. SFXT TE Stick. Has Curve In Front Of Wrists. Lock Button Locks Start and Select. Is the xbox360 pcb still compatible with the TE Kitty with TE-S Harness?

Thanks Toodles. Hopefully I can get more active!

Going to need more artwork, anybody can help me.

P.S. Anybody know where I can get premade cables for the TE Kitty through RJ45 for the different consoles? I am going to be doing 4 TE sticks soon.

1484

Just got to the testing stage for installing a TE Kitty with TE-S harness in a Soul Calibur TE stick. Almost all good, but the LT and RB buttons won’t register in Kitty mode. Both of them work fine in 360 mode. Checked connections on the ribbon marked ‘6’, and tried both six pin slots on the Kitty. USB connection between the TE PCB and the Kitty screwdowns was slightly sketchy, but it doesn’t seem like that could have anything to do with this, could it?

Any diagnostics I could run or pictures I could send to try to figure out the problem?

1485

I think the first posts regarding the TE Kitty should answer your questions about what it is and isn’t supported with.
As for premade RJ45 cables, any of the usual modders usually sell them. I know Gummowned and Nitewalker frequently sell them, and I think J&J have done it on occasion as well.

1486

It would be best to see how it behaves on a PC in the game controller’s applet first.
Do the LEDs for those light up in the turbo panel? If so, then its a button mapping issue. Go through teh steps to map the buttons on PS3 how you like them. If they dont, its almost certainly a wiring problem, likely with those TE-S ribbon cables send some clear pictures of those so I can peep them if you would.

1487

They don’t light up, and don’t register as pressed buttons at all in the Windows Game Controller panel. Not sure whether it’s odd or not, but the RT causes the bottom right LED in the turbo panel to light (should be the second from the right according to the button location on the controller). I’ll take a couple pictures and get them up in a few minutes.

1488

You should pull out both of the button ribbons (‘5’ and ‘6’) and recheck how they’re supposed to connect with the installation guide.

1489

Hey toodles. Thanks for your reply. I know the first page says its not supported as of now. I seen it done on 2 members here on pages 28 and 27 i think. Just wondering if the SFXT PCB is the same as the TE-S sticks. Assuming it could be done with TE Kitty and Harness. Just wondering if the compatiblity is just the finding fitment in the case? becuase the turbo guide buttons are on the left, or is their hardware compatibility. Those guys that had it done 1 dremmeled a slot out, and the other didn’t. If you can kindly point me in the right direction. If not, I might be returning these Pro Sticks, and getting V.S sticks as it seems its going to have good compatibility later. Thanks Toodles.!

1490

Took them off, and it seemed like I had them on the right way. Was putting them back on when I realized that the ‘6’ wasn’t quite snapping in the whole way. Some of that damn yellow glue got in there. I’m goin to clear it out, and I’m hoping that fixes the problem.

EDIT: Nope, no dice. Just to confirm, I have 6 running from CN2 on the distribution board to CN2 on the TE PCB, then it loses one wire (marked KO on the distrobution board) and attaches to one of the Kitty’s six pin slots. 5 runs from CN1 on the distribution board to CN1 on the TE PCB, where it loses the ground wire and continues to one of the five pin slots on the Kitty.

1491

I was misinterpreting what ribbon 6 was doing. RB and LT seem to be going to a single spot on the TE PCB (BE5 on CN2). Those wires aren’t carried on to the Kitty PCB. I’m a bit confused about that.

EDIT: I suspect the contents of CN2 might be different for this stick than usual. Starting from the red wire, I have: BA, ST, KO, RT, LT, RB. Is that the same as most TE-S sticks?

1492

Could you take a clear picture of those ribbons? One might have been miscrimped, but with a clear picture it should be easy to spot.

1493

Gotta say, the Kitty is the new hotness. It took all of 20 minutes compared to the 4ish hours of work. Loving it.

Good stuff, Toodles

1494

Glad ya like it, please tell your friends.

1495

Here are a couple pictures of ribbon 6.

The first is a picture of the middle connector, with the long ribbon (the one that goes to the distribution board) in the foreground.

The second is the connector for the Kitty. I didn’t take a picture of the other connector, as it’s entirely standard.

Also, since my last post, I tried hooking the distribution board’s CN2 directly to one of the Kitty’s six pin slots with one of the original stick’s ribbons. Then I connected the other six pin slot to the TE PCB’s CN2. It fixed the problem for both Kitty and TE Stick mode, but I’m guessing there’s a reason why I shouldn’t do that. Could I damage one of the boards like that?

If there isn’t a problem with it, I’ll just leave it like that. Otherwise I’ll get you pictures of ribbon 5.

1496

Can you get a clear shot down in the middle of that middle connector? It kinda looks like two of the wires on the long ribbon are going to the same pin, but I cant be. Part it and take a photo straight down.

1497

Can you get a clear shot down in the middle of that middle connector? It kinda looks like two of the wires on the long ribbon are going to the same pin, but I cant be. Part it and take a photo straight down.
The reason you shouldnt do that is because it breaks your Lock switch.

1498

Yep, two wires on the long ribbon are going to the same pin, and two wires on the short ribbon are going to the same pin.

Long ribbon is on the bottom, short ribbon is on the top.

1499

Yup, that’s a bum cable. Sorry about that. If you’ll post up or pm me with your zip code so I can find your order, I’ll get a new TE-S harness kit out to you in tomorrow’s mail.

1500

Yup, that’s a bum cable. Sorry about that. If you’ll post up or pm me with your zip code so I can find your order, I’ll get a new TE-S harness kit out to you in tomorrow’s mail.