Then there’s a problem with the USB connections between Kitty and PC. First thing to do is to verify everything where the outgoing USB cable connects to the Kitty at the screw terminals. Make sure everything looks as it should and compare closely with the photos in the installation guide.
If nothing stands out, undo the outgoing USB wire from the screw terminals, and double them up in the outgoing ‘360’ half of the screw terminals. So the top ‘OUT’ half of screw terminals will be empty, and the lower ‘360’ will have two white wires in the D- section (one from outgoing USB cable, other to original TE board), and two green wires in the D+ section, etc for all four wires. Plug it in and check the game controller’s applet to see if it comes up as the 360 stick.
Toodles, does the RJ-45 connection NOT work for PS3/PC/360? On my kitty it does, I’m just wondering if things have changed in new releases. Also can one flash firmware with USB -> RJ-45 cable?
All of the USB stuff still works through RJ45, that hasnt and wont change. Yes, this includes flashing the firmware; flashing the firmware is very doable through a correctly setup RJ45-USB cable.
Well Toodles I used a USB cable lying around, and still no change. The board seems to be getting power as I can hold the guide button down on bootup and 1+4 are lit up. But alas nothing gets recognized from RJ-45 nor USB OUT.
So how’d that troubleshooting I described go?
Well I tried the “double up” method and now have the “MadCatz Fightstick TE” in Game Controllers. But now what do I do? I tried flashing again and once again I see the “dos box” pop up and disappear. I took a print screen and got it to say “V2IO Flash erasing failed. Device not found, operation aborted”
Toodles, good sir: any input for me on this particular problem I’m having? Tried flashing firmware to no avail.
Sorry for the delay, busy day.
EDIT: I just got notice that the wire harnesses have been shipped out; I’ll have the TE-S harnesses back up on the site as soon as it arrives, around 1 week.
That’s good news, of a sort. Now put the USB cable back in the ‘OUT’ section and try the stick as normal. If that bombs, try to update the firmware again. If those fail, the next step is a little wonky, so I’d like do one last try on the ‘OUT’ section before I type it all up.
It’s always the PSX it seems 
It’d be helpful for you to try the troubleshooting firmware. It helps display what activity the Kitty sees on the RJ45 cable, and what it concludes the connected console to be. When you do this, please also let me know the specifics about which TE model you’re using; the lights are made for the standard Rnd1 layout, and if your LED board is from a different model, I need to know. This firmware is for troubleshooting only! After we’re done, you’ll want to flash a real firmware onto it.
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/TEKittyTroubleshooting2.zip
Flash the firmware as normal. Put away the USB cord, plug in the RJ45 PSX cord, move sliders to RS and Unlock, hold down Start, and plug it into a PS2/PSX that is on and at the game’s main menu or training mode.
Wait a deep breath (with Start still held), tap ‘A’, take a pic, release Start, take a pic, and that should help us out. Sort of a ‘mid stream’ check of the lines, and displays the info on the turbo panel.
That’d be the biggest help to getting the problem solved. If you’d like to try it on your stick that works properly so you can see what it should look like, go right ahead.
Ok put the USB cables back into the “OUT” terminals. Now I get nothing recognized in Windows whether I force 360 mode or not. Using the RJ-45 cable and holding BACK down with slider set to “RS” I get an unrecognized USB device. Using it otherwise still gives me nothing. Using both USB and RJ-45 while holding “GUIDE” gives me players 1 + 4 lighting up as before. I tried flashing, and still get the DOS box quick flash. BTW there’s a bat file in the zip file that when it’s viewed in editor it points to the VLX hex. Don’t know if that means anything, but it’s something I noticed.
i wonder if you’re flashing the vlxkitty firmware onto a te kitty like i did… lol
Thanks! I’ll give it a go this weekend and see what I find.
What I’d like for you to do is remove the green and white wires for the outgoing USB cable from the screw terminals, but leave the red and black in. Hold down the Guide button (slide switch on Unlocked) and plug it into a PC. You should see the one and four player LEDs light up around the guide button to show its in bootloader mode.
Once there, you need to take a multimeter and read the resistance between two pairs of pins on the small 4066 chip next to the screw terminals. Specifically, pins 1 and 2, and pins 8 and 10.
(end of chip with notch or dimple)
1 14
2 13
3 12
4 11
5 10
6 9
7 8
If you can let me know what resistances you see there, I can figure out how best to fix it up for you.
Hey toodles, first Kitty install (thank you for leaving solder points for the usb lines!) quick question though.
It was installed into a Mvc2 TE, and but I swapped around the quick disconnects to be standard SFIV layout (from LB and LT for 3P and 4P to 4K and 4P, RB, LT from 3K and 4K to 3P and 3K), but the turbo panel still lights up as if it was in the original button arrangement. Is this something that can be corrected in firmware, or is that hardware driven?
That’s hardware.
Thats what I thought, figured it was worth asking though. Not a real issue, so whatever. Thanks though
you can rewire either under the kitty or in the turbo panel
Toodles, any plans for making Kitty boards for the new V.S. edition fightstick?
Absolutely; Im hoping that little enough has changed that I can use a TE Kitty on it, but I’ll have to wait and see. You can bet I’ll be getting one asap.
I really need to know how to convince MadCatz to send me sticks before launch so I can try to have a Kitty solution laid out by the time they release.
Awesome! I’ll definitely be picking one up then. Hit up MarkMan, he said he is sending out some demo units. And we know how much he loves the community and these things will sell all the better if people know there is a simple, yet full multi-mod package for them.