So that’s verification that the main TE board works, which is very good. Put the outgoing USB cable back into the proper screw terminals, and try it on a 360 using the force 360 combination (remember that the stick wont work on the desktop until you slide it back to DP)
I tried it on the the 360 and no go. When plugged into the PC, the PS3 and PC modes are both recognized as Kitty TE Edition and 360 is still showing USB device not recognized.
Do you have a multimeter on hand? There’s a test I’d like to have you run. What I’d like is for you to remove the four wires out of the XBOX half of the screw terminals, so only the outgoing USB wires are connected to the kitty (make sure the exposed ends dont touch anything). Plug it into your PC with the force xbox360 combination (Slider on RS, Turbo held down).
Then while it’s still plugged in, remove the white and green wire from the screw terminals, so only the black and red wires remain plugged in. Use your multimeter, and test the resistance between the D+ (green) spot on the OUT section and the D+ (green) spot on the XBOX section. Do the same for D- (white) pair, and pot up what you see. They should be low values, like 7 ohms or so, so use the lowest resistance setting on your meter.
Okay, the D- is not showing any resistance at all on my multimeter, the D+ fluctuates from 6-7. Tested on both the screw terminals and the solder points below them.
Yeah, it’s interesting. The joint that is still connect has some play to it as well, considering soldering it down a bit more when I touch up the other side tomorrow morning. I’ll report back at some point tomorrow with my progress and any issues. Thanks again for all of your help.
Button not pressed - ~4V (fluctuated around 3.9), Button pressed - ~1.5V (fluctuated around 1.5-1.6)
This worked, thanks!
This problem fixed itself when I re-modded it just now (after the diode issue)
So far so good other than the LED issue. I’m going to hold off the mod here for now considering I may need to poke around here a little bit more if you want me to research the LED thing a bit more.
Hey, I’m at part 12: Testing, and the player button LED doesn’t light up when I set it to RS and press turbo. But the player button LED lights up when I plug it into the computer while pressing the guide button. I flashed the firmware too but it took maybe 20 seconds not even close to 30-45. Should I retry the firmware?
Oh and I have the TE-S ssf4 version if that matters.
edit: And when I plugged in the joystick and switched to RS, none of the joystick movements show up in the properties tab.
Okay so I started the testing part and I plugged in the stick to the computer while holding down the guide button. I saw the upper left/bottom right of the guide button light up. I also have the LED button lights light up whenever I hit a button. Then, I installed the firmware successfully.
Now on the next part, I am supposed to switch it to RS and hold the turbo button and connect the stick to the computer. I held the turbo button and tested the buttons and they all lit up. However, I’m not getting the upper left LED of the guide button like I’m supposed to. I checked all the ribbon cables and they’re all connected. What should I do at this point?
yes your right.
They both have the same Pcb so yes its possible but its not kitty cat easy
It all has to sort of be gerry-rigged as it was not designed for this installation in mind
Oh, I just ordered a TE Kitty, Neutrik RJ-45 and 1 ft ethernet cable, but I did not see this until now. Any way I can modify my order to include a JLF-TE cable too?
Does anyone have suggestions on seating the outgoing usb cable into the screw terminals? I keep fighting with mine and a couple of them don’t want to stay in. Do you guys normally seat all 4 then tighten them down? I’ve been trying to do one at a time, but to do so i have each wire exposed about 1" out of the black cable (not stripped that far, just out of the black insulator) and it’s a pain in the ass to do that way because one always comes out of the screw terminal when I’m trying to seat another one. I’m worried about trimming the cable much further but I wwant to get this seated nice and securely.
You’re jumping around again. The plugging in with the slider on RS and the turbo button held is the beginning of the paragraph. Looking at the LED around the Guide button is towards the end of the paragraph, and there’s no info about what you see in between. What shows up in the game controllers applet when you do this?
I think the outer insulation on mine goes back about an inch, so that should be plenty. Twist the copper wires together in each wire, and screw each terminal down TIGHT, as tight as you can. If you need to, screw down the red wire, and use small pliers to get the next wire above it into the next screw terminal and screw it down, and repeat one by one until all four are in and done. If you have it screwed down well, chances of a wire coming out during this process is pretty much nil.
Or solder the wires to the through holes to the side of the screw terminals, if you’re up for it.
Thanks for the suggestions. I got it down using pliers which I hadn’t thought of before for some reason. At this point I’d almost rather just solder them down but I have the board mounted and I really don’t want to pull it out again.
Hey Toodles, I’m looking at picking one of these up for the upcoming SC5 stick coming out, partly because I want it to look super clean, partly because I want to toy around with a new pcb. I have two questions though, that don’t seem to be outlined in the guide, well its more like one and a half questions.
as far as the light up turbo panel/guide ring on button/stick input- is that able to be turned off? The less this thing lights up the better for me.