Ok I give up…can you 32teeth, or someone please update this FA sparky with 3.0? I am just very frustrated at the fact that Ive tried every different possible solution and i still get the same results.
Flipped the cable around, nope, reconnected everything, nope, tried different firmwares and no bueno…
ill pay 10 bucks for anyone that can upload the latest code and make it work right before I throw this thing!
thanks!
Which button LED’s do the Sparky PWM work best with?
If you throw it. Throw it my way. I’ll try my kung fu.
So, can the sparky do the same stuff the toodles can? Specifically the lights out type mode in this video [media=youtube]G-ADymPCP0I[/media] or can it not? I do plan on getting the sparky either way, but the lights out mode would be a major plus for me.
no the sparky jr does not have fancy effects like this (yet)
it is meant as an RGB controller. The FGWidget is for single led. Toodles is coming out with his own RGB controller soon which should have the fancy stuff you are looking for.
^^^ Thank you a lot 32Teeth. If that feature gets implemented later will i be able to update my sparky jr with it? Or will i need to get the newer board to run them on?
no need for updating hardware. software only
Ok so I have a paewang board and I installed the Sparky PWM SMD LED by following the install video. I’m only using 6 buttons, only the kicks will light up. When I plug the stick in they go red, then green, and stay green. The lights are always on, even when I disconnect the button. I’ve checked the wire connections, I actually re did them just to have the same thing happen. At this point I am lost and in need of help badly.
[INDENT=1]I also double checked to make sure I had the signal wires connected, since I know that can cause an always on if they are reversed.[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]I just tried connecting one of the punch power (black) wire, to one of the kick buttons power wire and the lights turned on. Could I just have a bad board where none of the punch power wires are working?[/INDENT]
I’m sorry I keep adding to this but I figure every detail can help. I just unplugged the button wire harness on the sparky board then re connected it, now only the first punch button is lit up - blue. So now I’m wondering if it is just a bad wire harness.
Ok, so I got it to work, I guess this is a good tip for anyone installing the lights. While trying to figure out the problem I kept the stick plugged in so I could see what worked and what didnt. So when I double checked the relays I never turned the lights off. As soon as I turned to power off then back on it all started working.
Just like the show the “IT” crowd, “Have you tried turning it off then back on again?”
Hey guys, I noticed that the tabs inside the button heads were getting stuck behind the LED boards, I trimmed the tabs on the button heads and this fixed the issue. Now you really can’t feel any difference.
Same here. I also dremilled as much as I could from the LED board to allow them to fit in snap in seimitsu’s.
Question, working on another stick. Have everything wired up well, but when sparky/stick are on it is registering back and jump and wot register any kicks. But if I hook it up to ftdi I can use the configurator and everything will register the different colors I choose.
I had cleared and re loaded sparky 3.0.
At one point I tested with only punchs connected and it all worked fine. When I disconnected and finished wiring it went back to the failed inputs and forward jump.
Is this a power issue? Or programming? Any help is appreciated
Having an issue after loading 3.0. Now the start up colors for kick buttons is blue, teal, green. Then all buttons are white. cant seem to change them… So i cleared the eeprom and loaded 2 again… now starts up red, yellow, green but again… just white buttons. what is causing this?
Yeah, I appear to be stuck on the same problem that RoDcHaN was. My buttons go from red, to yellow, but stay yellow. From reading the thread, this seems to mean that the sparky is in “off” mode. I tried “Press all 3 K” to try to get it out of that, but to no avail. I have everything seemingly wired correctly, but when I go to try to upload v3.0 through Arduino, I get the avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00.
I even went so far as to try to program the sparky with nothing hooked up to it except for the FTDI, but I still get the sync error.
I’m running Win7x64 and using the Sparkfun Basic FTDI breakout. Everything is wired up to a Paewang.
Please help! Thanks.
–jedi//.
Uploading
In the arduino IDE, under tools->board, make sure you choose “Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16 MHz) w/ ATmega328”
Warning
After a few conversations with stevedave
In the Sparky SVN, the Paradise Arcade (FocusAttack) Sparky has it’s own branch.
The RGB pin mapping is as follows
int rgb_pins[3] = {11,10,9};
In the Sparky SVN, if you are grabbing the latest 3.0 from here
https://sparky.svn.beanstalkapp.com/sparky/trunk/Arduino%20Files/Sparky%203.0/Sparky/
you will note that the RGB pin mapping has changed
line 81: int rgb_pins[3] = {9,10,11};
download the branch, change the pins, reupload
edit
I indeed have the board set to what you’ve specified, but it still refuses to upload the new code due to the same “not in sync” error.
Anything else I can try?
–jedi//.
Does the FTDI show up as a COM port under the tool->(serial) ports menu?
Have you installed the drivers? You can find the in the drivers folder of the Arduino program
Is it plugged in the right way around?
Those should be your first check. Not in sync is a first notice for hardware issue
The FTDI drivers are installed, they’re FTDI version 2.8.14.0.
The device is registering itself as a virtual com port on COM4 and COM4 is selected under Arduino.
As far as I can tell, it is indeed plugged the right way in.
I still get a time out when I do this.
//OUTPUT
[INDENT=1]Binary sketch size: 13604 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum)[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]C:\arduino-1.0\hardware/tools/avr/bin/avrdude -CC:\arduino-1.0\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf -v -v -v -v -patmega328p -carduino -P\.\COM4 -b57600 -D -Uflash:w:C:\Users\JOHNSR~1\AppData\Local\Temp\build8880106420835297331.tmp\Sparky.cpp.hex:i [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude: Version 5.11, compiled on Sep 2 2011 at 19:38:36[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] Copyright © 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] Copyright © 2007-2009 Joerg Wunsch[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] System wide configuration file is “C:\arduino-1.0\hardware/tools/avr/etc/avrdude.conf”[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] Using Port : \.\COM4[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] Using Programmer : arduino[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] Overriding Baud Rate : 57600[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude: Send: 0 [30] [20] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude: Send: 0 [30] [20] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude: Send: 0 [30] [20] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude: Recv: [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00[/INDENT]
[INDENT=1] [/INDENT]
[INDENT=1]avrdude done. Thank you.[/INDENT]
//END OUTPUT
Should I have the USB from the Paewang PCB plugged in as well?
I’m not sure what else could be going wrong, unless the Sparky Jr itself is somehow faulty. I even have 2 different FTDI cables, the breakout from Sparkfun as well as a 5v FTDI cable. Both give me the same issue.
Thanks for the help 32teeth. I know debugging this sort of stuff remotely is a pain.
–jedi//.
My remaining question is with the default 3.0 software on the download page at sparky.32teeth.org is… what is the color scheme that is defined for Punches 1 through 4 and Kicks 1 through 4?
Does this file not define colors? https://sparky.svn.beanstalkapp.com/sparky/trunk/Arduino%20Files/Sparky%203.0/Sparky/SparkyConfig.h
/
char pattern[18] = {
“0000FF”, // P1
"00FF00", // P2
"FF0000", // P3
"FFFFFF", // P4
"FFFF00", // K1
"FF00FF", // K2
"00FFFF", // K3
"FFFFFF", // K4
"FF0033", // 2x P
"FFCC00", // 3x P
"FFFFFF", // 4x P
"FF0033", // 2x K
"FFCC00", // 3x K
"FFFFFF", // 4x K
"FF0000",// P1 + K1 (throw SFIV & SSFIV)
“0000FF”,// P2 + K2 (focus SFIV & SSFIV)
“00FF00”,// P3 + K3 (taunt SFIV & SSFIV)
“00FFFF” // P4 + K4
};
If so, after the update to 3.0 (or even trying to load previous PA 2.0) on a Focus Attack Version of Sparky all lights display white until going into the Config GUI.
Hi all. First, thanks 32teeth for making this available and Nerrage for your excellent videos. I did my install tonight, and it went pretty well (except no one mentioned the goo inside the scotch locks, eww).
I am having one problem, similar to what’s been mentioned by others: when I plug the stick into my xbox and turn it on, all 3 kicks light up pinkish red, then turn yellow and stay yellow. No matter what button I press, those buttons stay yellow and no other button lights up.
All button inputs register normally and I’ve gone through and checked all connections & tightened all scotch locks.
From reading above, it sounds like maybe this means my Sparky is in off mode? Is there any manual way to turn it on (I don’t have an FTDI). Someone mentioned holding all 3 punches or kicks, I tried both but it didn’t help.
Any assistance appreciated!
EDIT:
Whoa! It’s fixed now, thanks to Jedi W.'s post below.
I am modding a MadCatz TE MLG edition (I liked the red/blue sides as they go great with the Yamato art theme). I installed everything according to Nerrage’s tutorial, including assuming that the barrier strip is set up the same as in the other TEs. But it’s not. I should have suspected something was amiss, because the PCB is in a different location in this TE than in the one in his video. (Also, I should’ve suspected this because my buttons stayed on, which sounds like mixing up ground & signal, whereas in the description of “off” mode, it sounds like the buttons go off.)
So - I switched the ground and signal wires at the barrier strip and everything works fine now.
I still have two minor problems to address - I think I must’ve damaged the blue LED on the Uila in the LT button, because no matter how I rewire it, that blue never comes on. I know I hit an LED on that button with a metal file as I was filing down tabs. Since that’s a rarely used button I’m not too worried for now, but will eventually replace the Uila next time I need to order from Focus Attack. The other issue is that one of the screws on the top no longer threads through its hole, but just spins in place. The top stays down just fine, so it’s a minor annoyance.