Official FA Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller Thread

@Trucifer - at the time, The Sparky’s we purchased were the same units as Paradise Arcade, as we arranged it with them. Those were supposed to have the initial code inserted into the main chip, with no programming necessary unless you wanted to change it. That said, we can send a replacement if you continue to have issues.

Yeah I’ve read that. I’m going to give this shiny new ftdi cable a try, then we’ll see. Thanks for the response!

Hi, finally registered to ask a couple questions.

First off, I have the exact same problem as tefightstands, and used almost the same methods as he did. All attempts to correctly use 32teeths files does not work as it should. If it matters I am on Windows 7 64bit flashing to Sparky 3.0 with Audrino IDE 1.0.2. Ordered the FTDI breakout board from Sparkfun. We need support to resolve this as I think that what links/sources we are directed to is not noob friendly. The SVN repositories are not available, requires password and login. We indefinably need correct files or links to make the products we purchase from Focus Attack working as intended.

And to Jaleel, since Lucas is MIA and I did contacted him this question, I will ask you this here. I recently purchased the Sparky PWM with some UILA flash from your store early February. All was installed fine and dandy except the scotch locks/connectors were oozing some type of goo. After watching Lucas’s TE install video and reading this whole forum (someone mention biting down the scotch locks with there teeth) it would seem that liquid dispensing from the connectors should not be happening. Would you have some insight as to why this is the case with me? It may have been that the connectors have melted plastic in the inside. This would not make sense as it was cold in California and also from where your at during the time purchased so no clue.

Thanks for listening have a good day.

Hi Karcus,

I cannot say for sure what is happening to the scotch locks. Unfortunately, I haven’t used them before in any project, so I cannot tell what may have cuased that to happen. The Scotch locks were mainly for those who do not know how to solder the connections, and wanted to try out a solderless method. Those were added in as an optional step, not mandatory. If you can solder the connections together, you can instead try that step and remove the scotch locks. They aren’t required to use the Sparky or Uilas.

Newer scotch locks are made with goo to help keep the wires from slipping out of the “sleeve” before you lock them down and in place. They didn’t used to be.

I just received a message explaining the exchange policy to get a new sparky. Hopefully FA can help you out.

Jaleel, yes I am capable of soldering. I was “testing” the Sparky, so I used the scotch locks. Need to whip up a new artwork before I finalize and tidy the wires to have a more professional look. Oh and let me give you props for catering to us with your store. I was reluctant to purchase arcade products until you arrived. Speedy services IMO.

Trucifer, thanks for the heads up. I feel more comfortable now knowing that it is not a mishap but a manufacturer change.

Anybody have luck or any links to get a working Sparky 3.0 firmware? Perhaps even a better firmware with more effects and support. I wish I never tried to update because the FA/PA firmware was working great with the Sparky 3.0 Configurator minus the capability of changing multi color and single button colors simultaneously. It does not save/upload to the Sparky (seem to only work with one or the other). I was able to flash the Sparky 2.0 firmware from 32teeths website and use the configurator to change the colors to my liking. The only drawback with this method…the button that you press would cause it to not light up, instead all other buttons express the colors you chose. Although it is a cool effect, I want to go back to the original FA Sparky firmware or the 3.0 version.

Meanwhile I will study the firmware to see what code/s I can change to manipulate functions pertaining to the way the buttons light up. Luckily there aren’t many lines to the Audrino files but I am no programmer/coder. Will post results if I find something interesting or helpful when using 32teeth’s normal 2.0 files and the 3.0 configurator.

yeah focus attack fb page said they have been have a few problems with the last sparkys that gone out. will i got the 3.0 configurator and my ftdi cable. when i open up the programmer and select the port my 1,2,3 kicks don’t light up for me to continue. any suggestions?

Guys,

I understand your frustration on things not working as they should. To be sure, we have sold about 200pcs and only a few were exhibiting problems as any manufactured PCB can, but we will do our best to accomodate any requests for defect returns.

Our support team is coming back online in early April. The team will consist of John Wade (aka DaRabidDuckie), and Matt Gummo (aka Gummowned) from Team Tech Talk. They should be able to help you with questions about the Sparky if 32Teeth is unable or does not have the time. Originally this thread was to crowdsource for support because I am personally not technically proficient to answer questions here.

If anyone has other questions about their purchases made within our 30 day return policy, please send them to service@focusattack.com. Thanks!

pretty sure im out of the 30 days but i would be willing to pay for shipping and cost to reprogram the sparky with the 3.0 as i am having no luck what so ever… lmk

well messing around i was able to get them all to light up white, that better than kicks 1, 2, and 3 lighting up red then green and staying on. But since i have colored rims it looks halfway decent and will work for now until we get some answers.

I am using windows 7 32bit and i have a sparky from focus attack with uila flash leds.

ill try to make this easy to follow as i can on what i did.

first off i went to http://sparky.32teeth.org/ click on downloads then click on arduino. download both 2.0(fa/pa) and the 3.0 files. and also the arduino ide if you have not already.

open up the sparky 3.0 and the sparky 2.0 (paradise arcade) folders and put them side by side.

In the sparky 2.0(paradise arcade) >sparky folder delete the file “sparkyclass.h”

now from the sparky 3.0> sparky highlight and drag the files “sparkyclass.h” , “sparkyclassEEPROM.h” , “sparkyclassevents.h” , “sparkyclassprogrammingmode.h” and “sparkyclassutility.h” and drop them in the sparky 2.0 (paradise arcade) > sparky folder.

open up arduino under tool select your port you are hooked up to. goto File>Open>Sparky2.0(paradise arcade)>sparky>sparky.pde and select that pde file.

once open click on the verify check-mark if no errors pop up then click the upload arrow next to it.

I was also having that “not in sync” problem and if i unplugged everything from the sparky board except the FTDI USB cable that sync problem went away. Once everything was plugged back into the sparky all my buttons lit up white, but i still cannot get the configuration 3.0 to do anything for me… as i would like them to light up certain colors when pressed…

Sorry for any improper grammar and whatnot. i was never very good in english classes…

My fight stick is a TE (mvc2 art) with full plexi with art work on it (from tek innovations) its not put back together in the picture, was just to show the lighting. buttons are the Seimitsu PS14, 8 smoke plungers with 4 smoke rims and 4 button match colored rims.

I2iCk_I2oSSi,

Thanks for your help in explaining what you did to get things functional. If what is happening here is a defect, then we’ll work to resolve that for you. The Sparky LED controller should have a default set of properties that light up upon certain button press combinations. That doesn’t appear to happen with your Sparky upon first installing it, which may indicate a defect. Up until recently, we had no reports of this issue. However, we can send a replacement and return label for the existing one you have, so you can try to use another. If you choose to, please create a defect return request using the instructions here http://www.focusattack.com/pages/Shipping-%26-Returns.html. I was hoping that the 3.0 files would assist with fixing any outstanding issues. Have you tried reverting back to 2.0?

Jaleel, there are no defects on the sparky. The problem unveils when trying to flash 32teeth’s 3.0 firmware. When updated the led doesnt work as it should. Unable to change colors being the main argument. Its a shame as I am pretty sure people who try to upgrade to 3.0 only do so to gain better compatibilty with the configurator. Only the author has seem to abandoned the FA/AP version of his sparky on his site. Ones that are able to flash to a better firmware are the ones who have acessed to an SVN repository. Reflashing to the FA sparky version is not working because the files on 32teeth’s are incomplete. What we been asking for is to either get our sparky to be 3.0 or be able to revert back to stock firmware.
Would anybody be able to give us in need, access to a working firmware?

That’s unfortunate. I don’t know why this had happened, or if there was some miscommunication at some point between 32teeth and Paradise Arcade to which the firmware’s been left for nought, or that he felt we were inconveniencing him. I hadn’t spoken to him in a while. I will try asking if 32Teeth can simply provide a copy of the downgraded firmware if he does not have the complete files to 3.0.

I received a note from 32Teeth explaining how to access and restore the 2.0 firmware:

*"http://sparky.32teeth.org/

click downlaods,

select arduino under ‘old stuff’

on the right hand side, there is a 2.0 (FA/PA)

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/236247/focusattack/misc/Screen%20Shot%202013-03-18%20at%2010.34.43%20AM.png


the FA/PA firmware was built before Arduino went 1.0

download the zip

change Sparky.pde to Sparky.ino

line 7 of SparkyClass.h

change #include “WProgram.h” to #include “Arduino.h”

compiles and works

note

  1. Keep the Sparky folder as is
  2. Do not move Sparky.pde/ino out on its own"*

We will work on compiling the original firmware so others can restore it quickly, but this should help for now. I’ve asked where we could get the 2.0 configurator. Awaiting a response.

yeah when i first installed it, once plugged in kicks 1 2 & 3 would light up red then goto solid green and no others would light up on push. as for the 3.0 upgrade i was never able to even get it to compile on arduino so i erased the eerpm or whatever its called and put 2.0 on there again and then punch 1 would light up solid blue with no others lighting up on push. i will fill out that form you talked about and also i tried that last thing you posted from 32teeth but it didn’t do anything to what i already had done and it still doesn’t respond to the configurator. thank you for your help.

Tried out the above. The code compiles and does upload to Sparky. Unfortunately the LEDs are lit white. After un/replugging the buttons do nothing when pressed. It just stays white. Configurator has no effect in changing the colors, nor is messing with manually changing the color codes in Arduino.
Thanks for helping.

Okay - sorry about the problems, folks. At this time, it’s possible that the Sparky units you received are defective, and should be replaced. I’ll honor those replacements through the return requests you place at the store.

Guys, I figured it out! How to get 3.0 firmware to work. It was so stupid but simple. Open Arduino with admin rights. Go to the sparky file for the 3.0 firmware and load it. Open the second tab “SparkyClass.cpp”. On line 39 add two “//” in front of “#define SparkyJrUSB” to comment it out. Now go two lines down and delete the “//” on “//#define SparkyJrv3”.
Or copy and paste over the following on line 39.

//#define SparkyJrUSB
//#define SparkyJrFTDI
//#define SparkyJrv2
#define SparkyJrv3
//#define SparkyJrShield

This should compile and work with Configurator 3.0.

Basically we had to set the board that we have…I feel so stupid that I overlooked this many times thinking that it was automatically detected.

P.S. I forget to mention that you will also need to change the the RGB code. If you don’t do the following, the Red Green and Blue LEDs will be reversed.

Also in the “SparkyClass.cpp” tab just a couple lines down. You will see the below code. Where it says int rgb_pins[3] =, make sure that the number is just like below (11,10,9). The file from 32teeth’s site will display 9,10,11 which is wrong. He did mention this on a previous post 1 page back, over a year ago. The code to change is on line 81.

// Sparky Jr v3
//----------------------------------------------------
#ifdef SparkyJrv3
int output_pins[8] = {18,17,16,15,14,13,12,8};
int rgb_pins[3] = {11,10,9};
int input_pins[8] = {0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7};
#endif

Karcus - that’s great! Thanks for working through to find the issue at hand. We’ll work to update our documentation so this is mentioned, plus give credit to you. Thanks!

Glad to help.