NEW Hori Fighting Stick VX (360) & V3 (PS3) Thread

Repost from the questions thread, because I didn’t know about this one, heh…

Hey there,

I have a question for some of the more technical posters here concerning my current arcade stick, a Hori HRAP VX-SA. Recently I bought a wired gaming headset in the form of a Sennheiser X320, to get more used to tourney set-ups, but I’ve ran into a problem, when using the VX’s headphone jack for xbl chats etc, my voice is barely audible when shouting into the mic, and is full of static noise (I’ve tested this by recording short messages and playing them back), but the playback is fine though.

I have a feeling my headphone jack or some wiring may be busted, as the headset works fine with both default Xbox pad’s and 2 MadCatz sticks I have laying around.

Is there any way to replace the jack/wiring without placing an entirely new PCB in there?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!

@CorrezZio
Wrong thread, this is the thread about the Fighting Stick VX, not the HRAP VX.
I haven’t played with the PCB of the HRAP VX, but I believe it’s similar to the FS VX anyways, and the headset port is on its own mini-pcb. You might be able to find a replacement for that, but I wouldn’t be sure where to find one. Maybe the one for the PS360+ would work? You’ll have to look into that yourself.

Ah, my bad.

Thanks for your help so far though, I’ve gotten my hands on another HRAP in the meantime though, same problem, guess I’m gonna have to research further.

Thanks anyway.

Does anyone still have the .pdf template for this stick? I had it on my hard drive archived but its dead now :frowning:

Never mind, I re-did one. I’ll post the .psd soon

Thanks for the help guys, But i got a few questions more. I’ve found a diagram guide for color coding for the JLF-TP-8YT the one which has the 5 switch connector, the question is the sanwa harness wires doesn’t seems to match the color order in the diagram. The diagram also points out that the color changes whenever you changed the position of the switch connector? Does it means that the color of wires in the harness is interchangeable? It seems confusing hehehe.

One more question, in HORI’s stock joystick each microswitch have 2 wires with the same color, eg. 2 yellow, 2 reds, my question is can i treat any one of each wire of the same color the ground one? hope you guys understand my questions, thanks a lot!!!

The only available stick now in my area is Original Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick and according to Darksakul on start of these thread, this type of sanwa JLF isn’t suitable for the Vx/V3? any clarifications please… thankss!!!

I think the JLF-TP-8YT-SK is just the JLF-TP-8YT with a shaft cover, so you should be able to get that and just remove the cover. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong though!

Yes, SK just denotes the presence of a shaft cover.

That model of JLF is fine. If you mount it the way Laugh does, it will sit at 24mm, which is at the upper end of the standard mounting height specified on the slagcoin website. You can also mount it using the mounting plate and the corresponding screw holes in the case - this will mount it closer to the TE/HRAP standard of 22.5mm, but the shaft will most likely grind on the bottom of the case.

To reassure you, I have the SK model currently installed using the Laugh method, and it’s fine.

Regarding the joystick harness, you can always check with a multimeter, or by just looking at the traces on the pcb. The confusion that you’re reading about just relates to the fact that if you rotate the microswitch pcb, the pinouts for the directions will change (because, e.g., the microswitch that used to trigger the up direction would now have been moved to another direction).

In short, there’s nothing to worry about, and you won’t actually damage anything.

Re the hori joystick wires, I believe it does matter which you use for ground and which for signal, unlike the buttons. Again, you will not damage anything simply by experimenting, and I’m not ashamed to admit that I just swapped the wires around till everything worked.

Also here’s the art PSD for that stick as well. http://www.mediafire.com/?ds1ytds550wl84n

Ok thanks a lot for the help, I’ll certainly post after i mod my stick. KUDOS to the BEAST, best RYU i’ve seen. outstanding footsies, excellent Anti air and control of spacing against the best Akuma in the world GOD LIKE!!! hehehe

anybody have the wiring diagram for the turbo panel on the hori v3? (ps3)

edit: nvm, figured it out.

This is my first time posting so please excuse me if I ask something completely obvious

If I want to just mod the buttons with Sanwa, could I just desoldered the hori buttons from the PCB, replace them with the Sanwa and solder that to the PCB

e/ im dumb and uneducated, igore this

In theory, yes.
However, note that the stock Hori buttons have pin-like connectors, and Sanwas have 0.110" flat connectors. The Sanwa buttons won’t fit through the holes on the PCB that the stock Hori buttons go through.
The stock PCB that they’re soldered to is just an extension anyways; you’re better off snipping that all off and putting in new wires with quick disconnects instead.

Nope, that is incorrect. The Fighting Stick VX/V3 doesn’t have quick disconnects. The HRAP series do, but not the lower-end Fighting Stick series. The FS VX/V3 have the Hori buttons soldered to a PCB.

having problem with my fight stick v3 right now. starting this month, I found out that my arcade stick is having trouble registering pressing 2 buttons at the same time and is always doing (A then A+B) instead of (A+B) right away. the buttons do feel harder to press than before, and I am wondering if I should open it up to clean it or just buy new buttons from ebay.

been wondering whether I should mod this stick or buy a hori/madcatz stick that uses real sanwa parts. now that ps4 coming out I have less and less motivation to buy a brand new fight stick and isntead just want to mod it, but hori has plastic shell so the threading for the screws will loosen if I try modding it too many times. not to mention buying the parts separately will eventually stack up the cost quite a bit. considering the time spent I am wondering if buying a brand new stick will be the better choice.

is it even possible to get a TE or HRARP for 100 bucks?

just wondering, how do you guys change the artwork for arcade sticks? I don’t really need any artwork, I just need a replace the sticker piece because it’s too scratched up. what kind of plate do you buy and what kind of adhesives do you use?

Print your art on thick paper card stock and lani label it. The glue doesn’t really matter in my experience, I’ve always just used a glue stick.

I prefer an aerosol spray on glue.
Spray it on the panel and not the print.

The Art should stick down kinda like a Post-it note, but with a stronger hold that suitable for the thicker material.
Glue Stick is a horrible choice, I don’t even use a glue stick on construction paper.

Is the 8pin connector on the pcb for the joystick common ground? I saw in the stickies that the hori fighting stick v3 is common ground, but wasn’t sure if it applied to the joystick connections on the pcb