I would like to see the PS4 PCB inside…to know if it’s the same of Hrap V4.
I actually like the headphone jack, since I don’t have to worry about unplugging/bending the jack with my legs.
But yeah, internally it leaves a lot to be desired. Once I get around to dual modding it I’ll be putting in a Rockcandy PCB and re-doing all the wiring. Going to put a stock JLF/Busa in there, as well. I was unlucky enough to come across one with a screwed up button layout too (ABXY being in a square shape between L/R buttons), but I can always fix that. It was less than $50 though, and it’s still an HRAP at the end of the day.
Okay here goes. Just ordered this today and it will arrived tomorrow. I will post the images and check if it’s common ground.
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j7/ihackps2/20150625_195546_11_zpsojlqthdn.jpghttp://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j7/ihackps2/20150625_195806_21_zpstk4gz73v.jpg
Okay this looks good. It has the Hori Kuro buttons as well. I will tackle this tomorrow to see if it is common ground.
all those extra jst slots must be usable for something, touch pad maybe? its probably the same V4/V pcb.
edit- also called it, wtf is with them and that old joystick mech, all that hayabusa r&d and they still end up using this.
Is this guaranteed to work on PC?
Depending on who you talk to, none of the current market sticks is guaranteed to work on PC.
All the PS3, PS4 and Xbox 360 sticks that happen to work on PC is more of the product of circumstances rather than manufacturers intent.
So far the pattern is all the Hori and mad Catz PS4 stick, sticks that are made for PS3 and PS4 just happen to work on Windows 7 and 8 as PnP HID class USB devices working off generic drivers.
So on paper NO
In practice ‘Should Be working’
Is this guaranteed to work on PC?
I bought it recently and I can safely say now that it does work on PC. 
It has a much looser lever and buttons compared to the Fighting Stick V3, which means lesser wrist strain. My only gripe is that the stick’s diagonal inputs are kind of inconsistent, if not crap. I’m wondering if this is a general flaw of all Blazblue sticks or mine is defective. 
What I can say so far that it’s more like hardware-related, as I don’t hear the click during the times the diagonal input won’t register.
Just a follow-up question. Due to the crap diagonals I’m planning to replace the lever. Will the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK lever fits in just fine without any additional effort like drilling and stuff, or should I look for other brands like Seimitsu or Hayabusa?
Everything is in the Hori Fighting Stick VX/V3 thread, and re-iterated in the last page of the thread:
I haven’t done so yet, but im pretty sure that at least a hayabusa will fit in with out any problems, but i only base that off the fact that there is a 5 pin header on the pcb for the hayabusa to plug into. Ive been in the process of moving so i havnt actually tried yet.
I did notice the PCB having slots for the Hayabusa so you might be right on that one.
In regards to the diagonal inputs being faulty I think it has something to do with the gate. I tried playing without the gate installed and the diagonals come out just fine. It just feel like the stick is falling apart without that thing. I suppose replacing the gate with a better one would be the cheaper fix for me.
Is replacing the gate as easy as getting a Sanwa GT-Y and then screwing it in, or extra work like drilling stuff is needed?
As i said before im really not sure, i bought the stick and had enough time to check the insides to see what was up and then boxed it back up to move. Worst case scenario you would have to drill 4 holes for the screws of the stock lever, which is honestly not that hard and wont do any permanent damage to the restrictor gate. (As in not being able to use it on a jlf anymore)
Those who purchased this stick including those that posted here like @nsdothack @“Shooting Star Rockman” and @CHPrez
Can you guys look over the following information and confirm/deny/correct any information I have on this stick please?
Hori BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend Arcade Stick
SRKTT thread-
Case-
=Hori budget stick case (Same as Fighting Stick V3)
=Width = 335mm, Depth = 230mm, Height (including lever) = 110mm
=Weight (1.5kg)
Metal Panels-
=Top metal panel (average)
-No bottom metal panel
Plexi/Art-
=Licensed artwork for BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend
=No default plexi
=Plexi options will not likely be available for this stick via 3rd party plexi providers
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Insufficient information
Joystick-
-Hori generic joystick listed on Japanese website as “Standard Lever”
-Joystick has individual microswitches not a PCB with 5pin connector
-Difficult to change lever out to Sanwa/Seimitsu without heavy modification detailed HERE on V3 stick with same base
=PCB may have pin connector for Hayabusa/Sanwa/Seimitsu 5 pin connector (unconfirmed)
Buttons-
=Hori Kuro Buttons
PCB-
=Insufficient information
=PCB may have pin connector for Hayabusa/Sanwa/Seimitsu 5 pin connector (unconfirmed)
=PCB may have pin connector for touchpad (unconfirmed)
Wiring-
=Quick disconnects for buttons and joystick directionals
-Below average wiring (Detailed below)
-No pin headers/connectors for any directionals or action buttons. Wires are soldered into thru hole and glued in place
USB Cable-
=Cable Length (3m)
Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
-PCB needs testing and comparison to existing Hori PCBs
It’s being used in the “Definitive PS4/PS3 Retail Arcade Sticks List with Info/Facts/Photos/Advantages/Disadvantages/Etc” topic for information reasons.