Thanks ^^!
This sounds solid. I also saw your 4-man stick in another thread and it looks pretty teriffic. Do you use snap-in or screw-in buttons? Does the diameter of the holes in the metal plate match that of the holes in the wood? How does it work if you put Lexan or something over the top? What thickness of wood do you usually use?
So essentially, I can’t build a Sanwa box without either experience in metalworking or a wood router?
Not totally true.
My stick with Sanwa parts was bottom mounted on the top panel. The only thing is that you have to make sure that with your top panel and plexi you will still have enough of the stick’s shaft above the controller.
For me I used 1/8" plexi and some sort of ply wood type material I had laying around which was about 5/16". Bottom mounting it like this left 24-25mm (which someone mentioned in the sanwa/seimitsu faq topic) of the shaft above the top.
The only thing is that when you screw into the wood piece of the top panel the screws will poke through the other side. So what I did was find the shortest screws that would fit and then cut the end poking though with a cutting disc and a dremel.
Also, even though there isnt much wood that you are screwing into, it still holds it very well. In fact I only have two screws in my sanwa and it holds it tight.
Anyone can help me out with the wiring. I have several PS1 DS’s ( the right ones too), and have the buttons ( sanwas) and a sanwa JLF.
I’m using QDs, so is there a FAQ available, or some high quality pics showing where evrything goes.
Still looking for a way to keep the PCB in place too.
I really need this since the case is done and the first layer of paint’s already drying.
Also, should the stick be wired to the D-Pad ( makes sense?) or somehow to the left analog?
Haha I like how this is becoming the “Ask an expert-type” thread…
I’m pretty sure there is a controller modding thread that will answer alot of your questions, Taskmaster.
In response to the debate whether any button or stick is better than any other, it’s just a matter of preference of feeling of each one. Yes, Happ parts can be found more cheaper and easier in the US, but there are a lot of good places that import it for you. No matter what you use, if you can easily hit Up, Down, Left, Right and any button you need to easily, then what does it matter what type you use?
Yeah, I’ll go through the padhacking thread.
You just dont understand hoiw lazy I am, that’s why I asked here.
In any case, I’m glad I have 3 DS1s, so if I fuck up I can start over.
I know I’m answering a really old post here, sorry. 
I was going to use snap-ins. In fact I bought 32 snap-ins, only to find 20AWG steel + 1/8" plexi was too thick, so I had to go back and buy 32 screw-ins. Done properly you can use snapins though. Double and triple check your math! I suggest getting 1 snap in, and test the depth of everything before buying in bulk.
Anyhoo, what I did was this - I drew my layout on 3/4" plywood, making sure I was happy with all dimensions. I went so far as to color in everything to be triple sure:
http://www.numbski.com/cab/Arcade%20Machine_files/AUT_6508.jpg
Then I placed the plates over the drawing to make sure it lined up, and traced the box. I went back and measured 1/2" in from all sides of the plate edge on the plywood and cut that out. Aftwards, I took a 1/2" router bit and routed out an inset. Since I didn’t actually own a router at the time, I couldn’t get everything level, so I went back and used bondo to bring the plates flush:
http://www.numbski.com/cab/Arcade%20Machine_files/AUT_6518.jpg
That prevents the plexi from flexing downwards. So far as the diameter of the holes - in my case, they do, but for all of the wrong reasons. DO NOT follow my example in this regard! The right way to do this is after you draw everything onto the plywood and BEFORE you cut the location for the button plates, go buy your plexi. Clamp the plexi to the plywood, then drill the holes that will be holding the plexi to the plywood. Screw the two together. Now, while screwed together, take a reasonably small drill bit (1/8" or smaller) and drill a pilot hole through the center of each button hole, and the center of each joystick. Seperate the two.
Now, you have two options to make sure your button holes are the right size. The first is to make sure you have the right sized metric hole saw AND metric forstner bit, which I believe is 20mm for the joystick hole, and 30mm for the buttons (check the essential thread for sure), and use the forstner to drill the holes SLOWLY in the plexi. Use the hole saw to drill the holes in the wood and metal. If you want to be super-clean, buy a metric sheet-metal hole punch for the metal plates.
The other way is to buy a flush-trim router bit. Use a larger drill bit, say 1/4" inch, and widen all of the holes in the plexi. Do the holes in the panel top first. Reattach the plexi, then use the flush-trim bit in each hole. It will bring all of the holes flush to the plates, guaranteeing that they match.
Long-winded, I know, but this does work. The way I did it turned out to be quite the hack job, and I’m going to have to re-do it as a result.
Also, since we’re talking about building sticks, I have to plug my ball-tops. I gotta unload some of these. I keep making them, but they aren’t selling. :\
I have to find a way to make all this text fit in my sig. ^ that is my life, in 3 sentences. :sad:
You and me both man, only I got the glass-drilling setup too. I suspect neither of us is selling enough to recoup our individual investments.
Could I get a repost of that blueprint?
That makes three of us. At least you two have sales under your belts. My wife is quietly seething at the money I am spending and still have nothing to show for it. Just a mater of time till she blows her top.
TTFN
Kaytrim
yeah could you reupload that?
Sent ya a PM, but posted here anyways in case someone else wanted it.
thanks for the blue print its giving me a better idea on what i wanna do…
I need some help on the wood to use for top panel for a sanwa stick. I was in Home Depot today and was looking at the pieces of wood and saw GIS Plywood and Hardboard as well, couldn’t find any employees for some advice. My question is what thickness is best especially since I’m gonna be using lexan or whatever (does Home depot cut that too?) too. Are those two types of wood any good or is there something better? (couldn’t find any mdf)
A Home Depot without MDF?!
I wouldn’t go less than 1/2" as a general rule of thumb. Not sure about the GIS Plywood…the Hardboard is probably too thin. I usually use hardboard for the back cover. Go back to the Home Depot and demand to know where they are hiding the MDF.
and yeah just got parts sat morning … so still in process of building my box… muahaha
muahahahah my box is going to be one ghetto thinger…
but hey i hope i am right with … its the parts+player haha
hm… was also wondering if … i could just use 1 screw as a ground? like daisy chain or whatever and they all end up on one screw… and a SCREW is fine as a ground right? or am i missing something i needa know
A screw is not fine as a ground. While you can daisy chain the grounds, you connect the ground from a ground on the gamepad to the grounds on the button/stick micro switches. Check the pad hacking thread for more detail.
um… a screw wont work for a ground. When the term ‘ground’ is used here its not quite the same as an electrical ground like on a plug or anything similar. The ground just means the other contact on the PCB. Each button on the PCB is made up of two contacts. On some controllers one of the two contacts is the same for every buttons. This contact is referd to as the ground.
So as long as you are using a controller that has a common contact, something like a PS1 controller, you can daisy chain the terminals on the arcade buttons, and then just run one wire from the common contact to the buttons.