I can finally see light at the end of this tunnel, just wanted to post a preview pic of my custom Vewlix im currently making. I will post a “semi” detailed build log and post mortem once its completed by the end of the week. Kind of excited my first “Test” fitting went OK.
nsc
2
This is looking really good, wish I knew you IRL to get some games in on that 
Great job man!
d3v
3
Vewlix clone. Not Vewlix.
Sorry, Vewlix clone. Credit goes to Donovon Myers for providing an excellent guide, also heavily stole styling from Kraylix versions as well. Just got back from the shop where they cut the plexi and bezel pieces, aiming to be done everything (at least before future enhancements, led buttons/light guns/etc) by Friday.
Thanks nsc much appreciated!
d3v
5
How do you access the start and select buttons?
Not sure you can see it that well in the pic - but i’m going to be replacing the side panels to match the rest of the cab (one of them is above the control panel in the pic) - both left/right will have the 2 select start buttons that ill extend from the back of the TE sticks to the sides.
I never really cared for Arcade Cabs that have to utilize existing arcade sticks as the control panel.
The rest of the cab looks nice, but seeing two TE arcade sticks just sitting there ruins it for me
I already had a TE stick i bought back in 2009 sitting in my living room collecting dust, thought i would make use of it. In the future i may put a full cover plexi that spans both sticks, and cover the screws/xbox control panel button thing - should get even closer to a full vewlix control panel.
rcaido
9
Looks good, my only concern is the support of the arcade sticks…Looks a bit thin & might break if you put to much weight on it…
I see what you mean, just a thin wooden board isn’t going to cut it. Maybe if it had stronger supports, plywood or steel.
If you going to go that far, then leave the TE arcade sticks alone, purchase an actual Vewlix panel and populate the PCB with your own choice of joysticks and buttons.
If you want Xbox 360 support, you can always either pad hack or use PS360+ PCB.
Its 3/4" MDF - feels pretty solid, but i was thinking of putting some support - an extra piece thatll go along the middle of the panel. Ill see if i can fit one in may have to lower the coin door a bit. But i doubt ill need to to be honest.
I didnt know you can buy vewlix panels from akihabarashop.jp until after i picked up a second TE off the locals ($80). But I always intended on this cab doubling as a desk, wanted the control panel removable.
I prefer layering materials. But it does involves gluing sheets of plywood and/or MDF together and allowing to dry and cure.
I’m a woodworker, and I’ve used MDF for a number of things. Jigs, templates, tools, mock-ups, stuff like that. I would never use MDF for something I intended to keep nice and intact. It’s weaker than plywood, heavy, and falls apart if it ever gets wet(possibly from a spilled drink, in your case). It’s a great material if you need something that absolutely cannot warp, like a jig or template, but it’s crap most everything else.
That’s my take on using MDF for the final product.
I’m not a woodworker at all, but I used to work in a paintshop and I’m 100% sure that if the surface is well prepared with the correct types of primers, sealers, paints, clears and waxes, the humidity and liquids will do nothing to the MDF and it will preserved that shinny look for a long time.
The only downside to this is the time and money it requires… one great paint job will not be done quickly… and it will never be cheap… good paints are expensive and a professional painter will charge at least $400 for the job… unless you feel confident to do it yourself, hoping to get the best results out of it, which in most cases is not.
So if you are looking for something fast and cheap for the paint job better use other material for the build of the cab 'cause MDF will certainly not be the best option.
When B15 made his Vewlix (I forgot if it was for him or a client) he went and made a steel frame first that EVERYTHING ELSE bolts onto.
B15’s Vewlix was also HUGE - i wouldnt be surprised if he added more support than a normal vewlix. I followed Donovan Myers plans which calls for MDF only, I’m almost positive that Kraylix also uses mostly MDF.
My control panel + moves list section is about 17.5" deep while Kray confirmed his V4 to be 21.9" - so on my cab theres a bit less stress on the board. Also its supporting a 27"
LCD monitor and not a 32" HDTV.
The entire cab has been smoothered in wood filler, with 3 coats of primer, ~8 coats of paint and 3 coats of clear coat - and all connects are using metal brackets…i know its not a steel beam, but im not too worried that itll fall apart from normal desk and play use. But if im wrong, i guess ill have to rebuild. The entire project cost me about $400 so not a the biggest hole in my wallet.
Ill be posting final pics later on this week, Wednesday - got the marquee, bezel and prints done over the weekend. Should be a fun weekend
Yeah he used a 32 inch screen. But I still do not recommend just a single piece of MDF for a load bearing shelf.
Layered material is always stronger, I would have gone with Plywood not MDF, or a combination of MDF attached to Plywood.
Here an example what I am talking about this is a cross section of wood that is layered. This applies to all wood products, not just MDF or Plywood.
You say you have a single sheet of 3/4 MDF, I would of went with 3 sheets of 1/4 plywood laminated (glued) together or 2 sheets of plywood and 1 layer of MDF as a exterior piece.
Plywood is great as its layers have the grain going in different directions
The tall side panels are 2x3/4" MDF (glued and stapled together), and then the inside “desk” portion is just 1x3/4" MDF - but both side panel/desk is all screwed together making the bottom portion 2 1/4" thick.
I was actually thinking of gluing together 3/4" MDF with 1/4" Ply or something - it wouldve been lighter/stronger…and i asked on these forums but i believe users here suggested i just stick with straight MDF I wasnt sure if the 2 materials were balanced and if warping would be an issue. The cab will always be indoors but still…i actually also looked for “cross banded core blanks” which are I guess is 3/4" plywood with a 1/8" layer of veneer on top for finishing. Unfortunately i couldnt find any in town.
My monitor is actually not sitting on a shelf, itll still be on its rotatable/tiltable stand on top of the desk. Its hard to explain now but basically the cab is a glorified desk with the vewlix style tall side panels and a bezel as a face for the “arcade”
Once its complete ill post pics and stuff - hopefully itll be clear, in a lot of ways a bit simpler than donovans/krays designs.
I guess ill have to be extra careful with it, make sure no one sits on it or anything heh
b15sdm
19
1" mdf support shelf will do the trick especially if its just 2 TE sticks sitting on it. If it was a bespoke complete control panel then I would definitely look to beefing it up or adding additional supports.
On my first vewlix cabinet I built I actually used a single sheet of 3/4" mdf for the shelf panel but I increased its strength by adding lengtha of steel angles along the sides. This removed any flexing.
Also, the vewlix cab I built was exactly the same size as the original vewlix cabinet except for the overall width which I increased to 1100mm for extra elbow room.
I want to do one of these so bad!! I wish Kraylix’s stuff was cheaper, or that I had some access to some good power tools, because man do I love how the vewlix looks.
