Holy hell a haven for custom stix
EVEN INCLUDES INSTRUCTIONS FOR PEOPLE WITHOUT ROUTERS?!?!?!?
I love you, someone stick that into the Essential Joystick Thread
No kidding. A couple more additions such as Sanwa/Seimitsu FAQ’s, and it COULD be the Essential Joystick Thread. Once again, great stuff.
Only recommendation I would add, is on the separate wood types, add comments on how porous each wood type is. I despise Oak!!
MY GOD! thats a lot of info in one place.
Excellent work.
Only thing I can see missing is finishing the finish.
Rubbing compounds, Rottenstone etc.
wow nice.
WHY DID NO ONE BRING THIS TO MY ATTENTION?
this is cool. I’m reading through it.
The standard “Square” gate that came with my Sanwa JLF can be rotated 45 degrees to achieve 4-way nirvana. This comes in very handy when I play Tetris The Absolute The Grand Master 2 PLUS and an accidental diagonal movement can ruin your play.
Very nice guide. Thank you!
Ah yes. Laurie brought up a good point. I’ve been searching all day on how to put a nice finish on Cherry wood. (found the answer…finally)
Can’t go wrong with nitrocellulose lacquer when it comes to hardwoods. An instrument building supplier like Stewart MacDonald carries a really good one, both for spray and brushing. The only thing, is that it takes quite a bit of work to get right.
wow, excellent site. that is really really well done!!!
Nice job man, i can finally make a stick with all that info, thanks bro.
The thing about finishing is any kind of lacquer or varnish can look bad if not properly applied.
Wood needs to be cleaned sealed coated and re coated and finally rubbed or buffed to a proper shine. (If you are going for gloss of course)
You can apply just a few coats and have the grain showing without too much work.
You can use a mat effect finish. You can turn a gloss finish into a mat one and visa versa.
You can gradually dilute your finish and add thinner and thinner coats until its flat or use a compound to rub out the brush marks (or orange peal).
Perhaps I take finishing too seriously.
I got lost a bit there.
Love the site though 
Your new name is AWSOME!!!
I hope to put that info. to use my friend. Thank You
Recommendation about wood pores noted. I was gonna make a controller out of oak in the future. Is this a bad idea? And I thought I would try to cover FAQs about Japanese joysticks just in the description for each joystick. Do I need to add a FAQ?
Noted, and will look into these.
Looking back on my comments, they are pretty stupid. You have done an amazing job. When it comes down to it, anyone could nitpick about what is not included. Once you added the previously mentioned sections, someone (hell, even me) could come forward and say “you didn’t include how to <insert random topic here about how to cut wood, miter wood, paint wood, stain wood, work with certain metals, how to attain this or that, how to, how to, how to>”.
In other words, you have done an amazing job. Thank you for what you have put in to the site. It will help a TON of people.
the entire website is excellent, though you might want to mention which PCB you used, and possibly color code where you found the lives and grounds
nonetheless, this should be the first link in the essential thread, or should be mentioned in it
it’s top notch
Again, thanks for all the nice comments.
Yeah, I’m gonna make the devices and wiring in each example into a list like the materials. I need to retake a few pictures in the PCB section (some are a bit blurry). And doing a closeup with highlighting where I solder wires is a good idea. A small local store of mine sells PS1 controllers for $5, so I can do that part again.
Awesome site, great info. I wish this was around when I made my sticks. It would’ve made calculations that much easier as you’ve got everything measured out!
Thank you, this info will definately come in handy in the future :tup:
Es mi nueva biblia!!! Muchas gracias!!! Great work, keep it up!!
Oh wow, thanks a lot for this slagcoin. This is just what I (and some others I presume) need as a starting point and resource for making the customs I wanted to start doing for a long time.
Oak is a great wood to work with. It cuts very well as its so dense.
The open grain is only a problem if you want a totally flat finish.
Then you can just use whatever grain filling technique you prefer.
I tend to fill the grain with the lacquer and build the pores up to the surface.
It takes longer but I dont get much luck from grain fillers.