I might be retarded but Im having problems with the default layout. 1. I the HP & LP are swapped. and when I switch them in the configuration menu it doesnt save it. Anybody else have this problem? 2. What are the inputs for the xray and throw?
thanks a million if this is stupid but Im used to a SF 8 button layout. I love the cab though and love the layout. I actually grew up on this layout with at my local bowling alley and it feels like home. It took me a really long time to get used to SF so now I gotta get back to my tricks!
What does everyone else say about this? love the HAPP parts too! I like that between my two sticks (SF and MK) I know have a distinct feel between the two. Just feels a bit more authentic
The X-ray inputs should be the two trigger buttons. For 360 it would be RT and LT and for PS3 R2 and L2. As for your stick question, I wanted to ask. 1. Did you modify it in any way? Or is it all on stock parts with no fiddling.
1 -> You have to save in the options menu under a specific scheme number, and then select the same number during character select (I think it’s called" Controller" or “Preset”, something in that genre) in the pause screen.
If it doesn’t work like this, the last way would be opening up the stick and swap the quick disconnects. Also easy to do if it weren’t for all the damn screws you have to unscrew to get to the guts of the stick (don’t know if there are that many screws in the MK:AK version).
2-> X-Rays are done by pushing 3+4+BLOCK, Throws by 1+3, Tag by 2+4 and Stance switch by 3+4 or 1+2 (not really sure about the stance switch). Tag, Throw or Stance can be dedicated to one button. Throw mapped to the run button, while leaving the rest of the buttons like they are, seems the easiest.
The problem with (new) Happ is that their stuff tends to break easily, while the original IL- parts tend to be way more durable. You can still order the original IL products the day your Happ parts break and you’ll see/feel that there is some difference in quality. Also trying all the different brands in arcade gear is super fun/educative, so I would advise you to experiment with different brands.
I havent modified it yet. As far as opening it isnt as easy but doesnt seem hard. As far as saving the options ive tried this and for some reason it resets and swaps the punch inputs. Looks like ill have to open er up. Which I have no problem with, just though it was really strange.
thanks for the inputs too! I couldnt find anything on PDP’s site to how to do the xrays or special attacks so thank you. So far both sticks, TE &AK, feel about the same.
I have already modded my SFIVSE stick and caught the mod bug. I dont think with the MKAK im gonna swap out art since I like to wax nostalgic (only reason to buy it really) But I love how I can tell the major difference in parts. my SF stick is SOOOOO sensitive and really helped my game (i had never played SF before since as a kid I always played MK) and now absolutely love SF and its because I purchased a stick to mod. But if your a fan of american gaming and really love MK I love both MKTE and MKAK sticks so far.
How do you open the mk klassic stick. The port for the cord is loose and the cable comes out easily during game play. Is it a way to change the port from mini usb to micro usb? Or is the port attached directly to the board??
Yes but my question is: when i open the stick will the connector be replaceable or is it connected directly to the Pcb and I have to get a whole new stick? Both my MK Klassic sticks have loose connections. I wanna replace them but I’m un sure if I can. Has anyone opened this stick before?
Yes it’s a four wire cable. That being said idk if it has a header on the PCB where is can be unplugged or its directly soldered. Probably soldered. You should open yours up and check it out.
