Works fine on 360. Was able to turn the console on with the home button as well (worth noting as I’ve seen others complaining that some PCBs cannot do this).
I’m going to try installing the drivers from the included disc, and see if that rectifies my issue with POV hat input.
I wish they released this design five years ago. I spent way too much than I should on my Mayflash and then finally they release something like this? Sigh… I would buy two of these and not bother with the Horis (PS3 regular Pro or budget).
So I picked up a couple of these to test it out and see what was up for a great affordable ps360 stick. So far it’s been good, but I’ve run into a few issues while playing with it.
While plugged into my Xbox 360, about 10 minutes or so after playing it disconnected (asking me to plug a controller back into the console) while playing Darkstalkers. After about 2 to 3 seconds (not hitting anything) it eventually came back up on it’s own and everything resumed fine. I haven’t had it happen since, but I’m just checking it out having it sit in games just to see what’s up.
Street Fighter 2 Turbo HD Remix for the PS3 I can’t even seem to play. Putting the controls on X/Y and Xinput doesn’t allow you to control anything, but switching it Dpad and Dinput allow you to to go through the initial menus. Start seems to work, but when I try to hit the X button to just go to the next menu to get a game going, it doesn’t even register. None of the primary face buttons work. Hitting the Home button brings up the PS3 Home Menu, and the buttons work there, but for some reason they will not work in this game.
Other PS3 games work fine as well such as Darkstalkers (I have it on both PS3 and XBox 360 thanks to PS+), Street Fighter 3rd Strike and other games. But for some reason not Street Fighter 2 Turbo HD Remix.
Curious if you guys have run into any issues. I’m kind of going through other games.
Side note, I have an CPS-2 system for Darkstalkers 3, and noted above the PS3/Xbox 360 version. The arcade version seems way snappier and quicker than the home ports on Normal Speed play. Curious if anyone else noticed that.
And just an update. I downloaded the trial version of Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo HD Remix on the Xbox 360 and the controller worked fine there. Went back to the PS3 full version of Super Street Fighter 2 Turbo HD Remix and still couldn’t get past the menu when it asked me to push X to go to the next menu.
So i wonder if this is a deffective board or if the kinks havnt been worked out yet since its new? Is the POV switch damaged or got a bad connection from dust ? Do you have anyway to take hi res close up pics of the switch and its wireing up close?
Some pcbs just have issues with certain games this could just be one of those things. A good way to test this is if you have the psn ps2 port of capcom vs snk 2 it has the most issue working with the most pcbs. Maybe it could help establish a pattern? I know it is a stretch but it is a starting point.
Just saw your update as i finished so it would seem to be a game specific issue on ps3 that is odd but as i said it happens. Interesting enough though it would seem most issues are on the ps3 side. Do these issue seem to be more an more attributed to it being a rev 1 pcb.
I am trying to stay engaged in this but it would seem most of you are more technically inclined than i am but i do have my moments so i will keep at it with you an try to help.
Should’ve mentioned it before, but everything tested out electrically; all of the connections were correct up to the chip. I reflowed the solder joints on the switch for good measure, but still no dice.
Well that takes care of that. Time will tell but for now with both of you having issue with POV input it would seem this thing has a very i wont say bad just finicky pcb.
“Somewhat” common ground then? Sounds like the Paewang then. IIRC, the buttons and directionals were like this. The Turbo/Home/Select/Start all have independent grounds as well. While not a big deal per se (I’ve chained a ground wire on the Home and Turbo together for a Hori V3-SA pcb replacement), it did add an extra step. I’m wondering if it would be a similar process for this stick/pcb.
So as a budget PS360 joystick, I’m really actually coming around and loving this thing. Pretty awesome for such a cheap price (and if you’re not gonna build one from scratch).
With that said, I decided to take it apart myself and play around with the board a bit and see what else I could do with it (like everyone else). While apart, I scanned up the front panel for those of you who do have this stick and want to make a template file for yourself (and hopefully if someone creates a blank PSD you’ll share on here as well). This is unedited and uncropped 600 DPI scan. Just threw it on my Xerox and here you go. Have at it.
Received my JST-XH 5 conductor (4S) cables from China, and they do indeed work a charm for connecting your JLF without any modification.
This is the listing from which I purchased mine, but you can use any comparable listing with the same cable. Get one of at least 7" length to be safe (this one is 20cm).
Here is an image demonstrating that the length is appropriate. I confirmed that the directionals worked as expected and were orientated properly in software.
Put several more hours on this stick since my last post. Cleared Akai Katana about twenty times last night; no issues to report.
So, as a beginner with not many stick options due to living in Canada, would this be worth the 90-95 dollars to pick this up? Or should I look for something else?
Would the Japanese mounted crown fit in this without any issues? For 60 bucks and free shipping… Couldn’t pass it up especially since its the same price as a ps360+ lol and I have plenty of buttons lying around.