What if I don’t want the fix?
You don’t have to have it. The fix is free.
hmmm… the rabbit hole just got deeper lol… time for lots of questons >_<… ok so for my situation (since im crazy and want the light show) i would need to get the MS V1 w/ the additional ISP pin headers so that it can connect to a USB ISP programmer that plugs into my computer to be flashed correct?.. any additional software needed for the flashing or will it be fine by itself? Since programming is definetely out of my league (i mean i barely got the gist of all that power consumption lingo from b4 rofl) all i would need to do is w8 for u (or anyone up to the challenge =D) to write up some kind of code correct? Along with that, can the code also give u different options (lets say I want all lights on or then light show or then off)? At the same time, hypothetically speaking, the light show isn’t gonna mess with the power consumption again is it (since we earlier discussed about what the arc-eyes would be already consuming)? Also another thing i wanted to ask since it just hit me (and after i sat down to study the MS board’s design), for users like me who already have the dual-mod setup (cthulhu+imp, chimp, etc that already automatically switches) all we would need to do is hook up the cthulhu, chimp, etc only onto the PS3 portion for connection right? and just for clarification, looking at that spot below the console connections w/ “+” & “-”, “+” means VCC and “-” means GND? and for Usb cable to console whats “|D”, is that the secondary GND? … whew that was alot of questions (i apologize) lol but the more i know the easier this will be for me to get and install 
Haha… yes you are right… you need some software to flash, but its easy to do and to get… i’ll post instructions in the future…
As for power consumption, i’ll need to review what we talked about… (my head is swimming with numbers and power consumption calculations from other people)
For your dual mod setup, you would only use masterstrike to control LEDs… you already have cthulu and imp, so you dont need masterstrike’s usb switching ability (its practically the same thing)… so if you look at “PCB” and “ACC” and “LED”, they’re all the same thing… each is a set of 2 vcc’s… for a total of 6 vcc’s… so the board can be programmed to turn any of them on and off depending on which S1-S8 has been connected to the ground (done by wiring it up to any of your buttons)…
So the program you need simply needs two channels… one to turn on even number leds, one to turn on odd number leds… then the program would switch back and forth in a cycle… that would give you the look of old vegas rotating lights… then comes programming for signals S1-S8 so you can customize a button press or whatever to turn that on and off…
I’m a programmer, but I dont know low level microchip stuffs… i can’t ask gummowned or bencao to do it because they’re up to their eyeballs in projects, so once the default firmware is written, i can look at the source and figure out how to do it… then i’ll try to help you out… I dont mind because its an excuse for me to learn AVR programming… I’ll need time though cause i have a lot on my plate too… lol
ok… so since the ChImp dual-mod can be left alone, would all i need to do is solder additional wires from the ChImp’s VCC (as well as button signals for S1-S8) and wire those to the MS (since all the MS is gonna do is operate the leds)? Where would that VCC line go to power MS (lol still kinda confused on that installation) since LED, ACC, and PCB are the power to outgoing devises?
Ok for you what you do is take VCC and ground from chimp… then you wire it to + and - on the usb connection (top left corner of masterstrike, marked USB).
Then on the back, there are two sets of three square pads. These are the jumper pads. You need to connect the three pads together (on both sets). Just drop some solder across the three pads.
lets number your buttons like this
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
So the goal for lighting up would be to get 1, 3, 6, 8 to alternate with 2, 4, 5, 7… that should give the illusion of rotating lights (i hope)…
So you can have alternating between on and off, or alternate between two colors… for example, 1,3,6,8 would be blue, 2,4,5,7 would be green… then they’d swap colors back and forth…
green wires the vcc for the first set of LEDS (1, 3, 6, 8) goes to LED 1
green wires the vcc for the second set of LEDS (1, 3, 6, 8) goes to LED 2
blue wires the vcc for the second set of LEDs (2, 4, 5, 7) goes to LED 2
blue wires the vcc for the forst set of LEDs (2, 4, 5, 7) goes to LED 1
ground wire from the LED can share the ground post of the button…
So the custom firmware will switch power between LED1 and LED2… that should make the lights alternate and hopefully give it the illusion that its rotating… you can wire it this way in advance…
I think my eyes just caughta cramp looking at that…I’ll reread tonight!
@spenzalii;
lol i think my eyes cramped a bit too…
@ purplearms:
cool ok now i see how things connect… and now i understand the button setups, but to make things easier all i want is the color blue to alternate, so can that be explained now as:
-vcc wires for blue, for the first set of LEDS (1, 3, 6, 8) goes to LED 1
-vcc wires for blue, for the second set of LEDS (2, 4, 5, 7) goes to LED 2
…is that correct?
Also since half of the leds are on LED1 and the other half is on LED2, are u allowed to have a code that has both LED 1 & 2 activated (for just a continual light effect)? I know u haven’t gotten around to the coding yet but im just curious about the theory… like for example the coding would sound something like this: option 1 = Vegas Effect, option 2 = Continual Light, option 3 = off?
Now with that said i started wondering about how the arc-eyes VCC is now connected to the MS… If this is on a common power setup for Arc-Eyes, doesn’t that now mean the option to also have button activation for another color is now gone? I know this is making things more complicated lol but is it possible to have all those options just talked about be in combination with button activation of another color like green? or is that just asking for too much lol XD
edit: i just thought about it and i don’t know why im so confused but if MS was set to the figurative option 2 (continuous light up) and Arc-Eye was common power, then button activation shud still be possible if the grounds for blue was set to some common ground and the ground for green is set to a button signal right? With that sud wut happens to button activation on figurative option 1 (Vegas effect) since the power alternates to evens and odds?
lol… lots of possibilities with this board! we’re only scratching the surface 
Correct… that is for blue only setup, alternating between off and on…
Yes that is possible… But until the code is written, wire it to LED1 and LED2 as described, with the addition of one more wire… from LED1 to LED2… that way, LED1 provides power to LED2 and all LEDs will be on together (until the code is written)… With the MS’ default code you can switch LED1 on and off… and because its connected to LED2, that will also go on and off at the same time… and in the end, if you end up not liking vegas lights, you can flash it back to original firmware…
Well, the final version of arc eye is marked for common ground by default… but you can make it common power… its up to you… technically if you have common ground, blue goes to LED1 or LED2, but you still have green and red anode, u must provide power to those to get them to light up… so in short, no its not quite compatible with button press light up… that requires the ground to share the signal post of the button… so if you did that in this case, masterstrike would be providing power to blue, but it wouldnt light up until you pressed the button (which completes the circuit and connects ground)…
masterstrike provides power… it doesn’t accept ground… sorry but you gotta choose one or the other! lol
Another possibility is this… you have up to 6 channels of control on masterstrike… the example below used only 2 channels (LED1 and LED2) so if we use 4 instead, we can get a slightly different effect…
so button numbers are:
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
LED1 can control 1, 8
LED2 can control 2, 7
ACC1 can control 3, 6
ACC2 can control 4, 5
So turning it on/off in that order should give you the illusion of two lights going around in circles, chasing each other…
O snap, i was totally on the fence about somehow keeping the button on activation setup but with what u just explained to me, i may just go ahead and fully utilize the MS now and scrap the idea of button activation lol… man i like ur thinking Purplearms XD … so just to clarify (after i looked at the way things are set now with 4 channels and as well “after” the code is written) we can now theoretically have these options?: option 1 = Continuous Lights (LED 1&2 & ACC 1&2 all on at the same time), option 2 = Vegas Effect (LED1 and ACC1 alternate w/ LED2 and ACC2 to get the same effect as in only using 2 channels), option 3 = 2 Lights Chase (with ur explanation above ^), and then option 4 = off … that sounds logical i hope? Now in the mean time though (since there is currently no custom code yet and MS is running on default logic) I just need to wire things up like wut u sud above but now for a 4 channel setup [(LED1= 1, 8), (LED2 = 2, 7), (ACC1 = 3, 6), (ACC2 = 4, 5)] and then i guess daisy chain a connection from LED1 to LED2 to ACC 1&2 for just a basic continual light up to keep me entertained until the code is written? I hope thats correct? and then “when” the code is written i can then desolder those extra wires from the daisy chain since then the MS will take over? wheew thats a lot of work but i like it lol =D …hmmm b4 i forget as well, i wanted to confirm if this is correct. Since i have now dropped an extra color on the leds and sticking to just blue, i can now run the Arc-Eyes back at 20ma? Re-crunching the energy consumption numbers has Arc-Eyes @: 8buttons x 20ma x 2 led x 1 color = 320ma which is good right?
Yup you got it! no need to solder. Masterstrike comes with screw terminals on the channels. Normally I use 30awg wire for leads on arc-eyes. So i would solder two wires together (per channel) and be a little generous with the solder … this is so theres something larger for the screw terminal to hold down…
the math seems about correct…
Just for giggles I wired the p360 I had for my friend’s stick straight to a old PS3 lipo battery. It actually worked with no glitches. So in theory I probably could have a wireless stick with a p360 without that step up converter. Just need a big battery. Of course, I’m not sure what the current draw is from that p360, which may nix the whole deal.
sounds like someone needs to get a multimeter XD
Thats how i basically power my 360 and PS3 PCBs with my LEO setup… The question is will 360 PCB recharge a 3.7v LiPO, since I believe play and charge is 2.4v (and there are multiple pins on a play and charge battery, not just + and -)… not a worry for me since i let PS3 PCB do the recharging…
Purp, I think you misuderstood a bit. the p360 I was talking about is a Happ optical joystick. It needs 5v to power the optic sensors, whih I was mildly surprised it worked off the 3.7v battery. Then again, people have used p360s with PS2 PCBs, which if I remember correctly don’t put out 5v but seems to work.
And yes Gum, I’ll need that multimeter, stat! Maybe I’ll buy one and take some readings before I let the stick go
Did a install of Arc-Eyes and the new Master Strike board into Maji-OMNI’s stick.
6 of the buttons light up blue and 2 light up white. They are all dimmed and light up brighter when pressed. On 360, when the rumble goes off, all the lights flash green.
The Master Strike board is setup to turn off the lights completely or turning on/off the dimming. This is done at runtime by holding the turbo button and pressing either up or down.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Finished%20Mods/th_2010-04-11231515.jpghttp://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Finished%20Mods/th_2010-04-11231439.jpghttp://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Finished%20Mods/th_2010-04-11231459.jpg
@Gummowned : Man, you`re the first who installed a master strike and programmed it !!! Kudos to you!!! Looks awesome. Proof of concept (Never expected something else :)) hstel…) !! Could you share your source?
This is really great. Could you give some tech details. There was 2 leds on each button, each led at 20mA, in 8 buttons? 320 mA? you used a pwm?
Hooray!!! I will add a firmware section so if you could send me a copy and let me know what each signal pin S1-S8 does, that would be fantastic!
Did you use the pseudo code or develop something custom?
Yeah, save that setup and program code. I think that sounds like just what I want on the upcoming custom (with one change - 6 PS3 LEDs to be blue, 6 LEDs for 360 to go green, other 2 LEDs white regardless of system). Fun times and a crapload of soldering are in the works!