Making the japanese stick a little bit stiffer?

[Perfect_Legend]

I’m assuming your arcade controller has a Sanwa JLF joystick in it. If you’re using a Hori knock-off (or a weaker imitation brand) then that’s probably your answer right there.

TheRealNeoGeo made a video tutorial for replacing the stock Sanwa JLF joystick’s spring with a spare one meant for a Seimitsu LS-33 joystick. It will make your JLF feel a little stiffer.
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]

Depending on your arcade controller, there’s a good chance you can just swap the whole Sanwa JLF out for a Seimitsu LS-32, which is considered to be very similar but the spring is a little harder and snappier, and the dead-zone is a little smaller.

Of course neither of those things will change the square-shaped movement limitations. To make it feel more circular (like the P360), you could swap out the square restrictor gate for an octagonal one (the Sanwa part name is GT-Y). Be aware that I’ve heard from some people that it’s not recommended. It apparently shortens the distance between the minimum engage and the gate’s stopping edge for the diagonals, and lengthens the same distance for up-down-left-right to an amount that is supposedly “unhealthy” for the microswitches; they may wear out more quickly. Plenty of people have done it and are happy, though.

If you’re feeling really ambitious, you can try and get an optical joystick. The only two I know of are the Sanwa Flash (they haven’t been made for a long time and you’ll never find one), and a verrrry excellent clone of it by the company ASCII (they’re pretty rare but you have a good shot at getting one if you post a WTB thread in the Trading Outlet subforum). This will feel very smooth and almost as round as the P360. Note that you’ll still want to put in a firmer spring.

How long have you been using the Japanese stick for? (DOA players usually just used pad, right? What had you been using for SF4 up until now?) If you’re still pretty new to it, I really recommend that you first give it more time and try to get used to it as-is. They’re really just beautiful little devices once you build up a level of comfort and familiarity with them. Many American OG’s happily made the transition.

No Japanese stick will ever be as tough as the P360… you can drag a whole cabinet around trying to do motions on that thing. Worst comes to worst, I’ll bet that Ohio has a builder who could make you a custom with a proper P360 in it. Heck, you could just use a Competition instead and that will feel a lot closer. This is a problem you can throw money at!

Well people charge hella money.

Also I been using stick since SC4 came out I have a TE and a HRAP3SA. I still play DOA on pad though. Games I play now are just SF and Tekken. P360 I had but sold it to someone I am thinking about buying it back but the stick was too stiff for me also the sticks I think the down-left angle was too inconsistent you had to hit it too hard for it to come out.

What I really want though is a korean stick (especially for tekken since I use mishimas) but I would have to buy a saulabi and a stick and then have it modded. I don’t want to spend that much more money on a stick though. So all I did with the sticks I have right now were doubling up on the springs and they are stiff now.

Also I think I feel a lot more comfortable on competition sticks than I have anything else but it will cost money again to have a stick built or something cause I know a competition stick won’t fit in a TE or a HRAP.

[Kyle]

If you want a Japanese stick like an American, Get a JLW with a bat top, and a round gate.

I’m not disagreeing with this, but doesn’t the JLW mount like a Happ stick? Will it fit in a SE/TE?

[rtdzign]

I’m not disagreeing with this, but doesn’t the JLW mount like a Happ stick? Will it fit in a SE/TE?

The JLW has a mounting plate that most closely resembles a Seimitsu RE flat plate that comes with an LS-32. If you where to mount it in a SE/TE I would put on a few washers since the shaft is longer. I think in a TE you might have to dremel that square hole for the microswitches, But I think it is only a cm or two deeper. I think you may have to dremel away some of the mounting plate since it might get in the way of the buttons.