Need eighteen .110" Quick Disconnect for the Buttons.
Need eight .187" Quick Disconnect for the Joystick.
Both get from Lizard Lick.
Should I also get my wires from here? How many feet do I need? I think I’m getting the Seitmitsu stick. The site doesn’t say what size it is, so I assume it’s also .187 Like the Sanwas?
Not sure about wood. It is not my expertise. Probably cheapest if you make it yourself.
That’s about everything I can think of. If you want to go completely solder free, I’d look into 18 Quick disconnects, 2 for each button (under electrical section of Lizard Lick, 10¢ apiece). .110" lugs. But I’d double-check, they list the lug size with each button. .110" is pretty much the most common you’ll run into. These have places for wires to slip into, and then “plug in” to the lug of the controller. Makes wiring ground together a bit easier. Not necessary, you could just bend a wire onto the lug you’re hooking it to.
Tools; Wire cutter and strippers. They’ll make your life easier. For cutters, you probably have needle nose pliers laying around that can cut. Diagonal nose pliers are nicer for cutting, but really only necessary if you’re assembling a PCB (which I’m guessing you’re not).
As for wire, get 22 gauge AWG (American Wire Gauge) if you’re using Quick disconnects (Lizard lick sells this, but it’s 25¢ a foot. Bit pricey, in my opinion.). Maybe a higher gauge if you’re not going to use them. 22 AWG is pretty much the “standard” among builders. Higher gauges are a bit easier to work with, but also can be more difficult for being smaller. Heh, it’s a trade off of difficulty. But if you’re going solder free, definitely make sure it’s solid core. Braided wire is easier to damage while stripping, but is much easier to fix if you’re soldering. At radioshack, just find a roll of their “22 gauge hook up wire,” it will be good. Can probably also pick up strippers there for a few bucks. (EDIT:) After reading your post, I’d just get the smallest roll of Radioshack wire. Lizardlick wire will be exactly the same. Never counted how many feet I used, but it’s a better deal for amounts that you’ll have plenty. You’re gonna need a lot more wire with the JLW and Quick disconnects.
EDIT: Forgot you’re using the JLW. 8 Quick disconnects for that. .187"
Second edit: See jdm got you there. >_>. Curse you! Lulz.
Laugh.
Wait, so you not getting JLW?
If you getting any Joystick that has PCB (Sanwa JLF-TP or any Seimitsu with prefix -01), then you use Wire Harness.
If you getting any Joystick without PCB (Sanwa JLW or JLF-TM or any Seimitsu without prefix -01), then use Quick Disconnect.
What he said. Make sure it comes with a wiring harness if you get a Seimitsu LS-XX-01 or applicable sanwa models. Pretty sure it does, but since I haven’t bought every single stick from Lizardlick, I can’t be sure. Lol. Also, as far as USB cables, look for a USB A/B printer cable. It plugs straight into the Cthulhu (Which I have been spelling wrong for the longest time. I just got the stickers from Toodles and epic facepalmed when I saw that I’ve been misspelling it for the longest time. Curse Silent H’s. Lol). Lizardlick sells these, but if you have a spare printer cable, these are exactly the same thing.
make sure you have the right size drill bits, forstner bits are hard to come by in metric sizes. you may have to order them. Lowes and Home depot don’t have the right sizes…some people say you can find the right spade bit, or hole saw at ACE…but i couldn’t find anything that would work.
quick question: Does the ps3 madcatz SE stick have sanwa buttons in it?
Thanks guys! I’ll probably be ordering tonight. So step two is going to be the case then.
This is my Cart:
MC Cthulhu, Complete
SKU: mcCthulhu 34.95 34.95
Seimitsu LS-32 Joystick
SKU: ls32 Color: Red 19.95 19.95
Seimitsu PS-14-GN 30mm Pushbutton
SKU: PS14GN Color: Black/Red 2.95 17.70
Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm Pushbutton
SKU: PS14DN Color: Black 2.50 7.50
Solderless Quick Connect
SKU: qc Size: .110 0.10 1.80
Solderless Quick Connect
SKU: qc Size: .187 0.10 0.80
Is this correct?
Does not.
None of the Madcatz SEs have Sanwa buttons. Only the TEs.
I quite like this thread. I’ve really been considering making my own stick as well. I’ve never done so before, so I’m thinking of bookmarking this thread for reference. I kind of want to make this my summer project. 
Looks good to me. But, I DO want to mention, if you’re going to use the full functionality of the MC Cthulhu, you may want to get the RJ45 Neutrik adapter (and also be prepared to make your own cables, and the whole process will require soldering). You can, however, hold this off until later, as it will work just fine for PS3 standalone, and you can implement it later. Better to spend an extra $5 if you even THINK of using it for older systems instead of getting locked into a PS3 only board.
You’ll still need wire and a USB cable, preferably the A/B “printer cable”, but everything checks out with me. :tup:
Madcatz SE sticks do not have any Sanwa parts. Definitely worth replacing these. Very easy to do, just snap out the stock buttons using a screwdriver, apply new Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. The stick is replaceable, too, and you can replace it with a Sanwa JLF easily. Just unplug the wiring harness, unscrew the mounting plate and balltop, screw in your new JLF (balltop off, please), screw on the balltop, and you’re ready to go. No soldering needed.
Note: This will void your warranty. If you’ve had it for more than 90 days, your warranty’s already expired, and it can only get better from there.
EDIT: Glad to hear you like the thread. =D. It’s good to have a shopping list of parts, yeah?
Okay! Well USB cords are easy; I have a ton back home so I’d rather not buy a new one if I don’t have to. I’m gonna wait to make cords for my other systems, but I might throw in that Neutrik so I don’t have to pay shipping later.
Okay, just making sure you had that, since you wanted to go solderless, so, had to make sure all bases were covered ;). And the Neutrik jack is good to have for later. Just drill a 24mm hole in your case when you’re ready for it later, and you’ll be good for it. Good stuff, and good luck :tup:. I’ll of course be here when it comes to wiring.
Only the Neutrik NAUSB is 24mm hole.
Oh, shoot. Well, thankfully you’re not sawing. >_>
Jdm scoops up the correction!
Nice. I guess the final thing I can think of, is I emailed a local arcade (A large one called Fun Depot) and asked them if they know any local dealers, or perhaps have spare parts they’re willing to sell. I haven’t heard back form them and I doubt I will. Is it worth waiting till the morning though?
Bought!
Congratz! =D Happy building!
Nerrage, everybody, Thank you! Thank you so much!
I’m going to take a break, and later today or tomorrow, I’m going to start on the case! Let’s see what happens!