can you quantify why?
Probability because the new Alphaâs joystick a smoother, more precise operation compared to the brawlâs joystick.
So the old Mad Catz SE stick felt awful, the movement isnât smooth and the directions can be inaccurate. They arenât even worth trying to mod/fix, just swap them out for better Sanwa or Seimitsu joysticks
The tolerances are off during manufacturing so two joysticks from the same assembly line can be very different, and having any of the 4 switches off by a millimeter throws off the whole joystick for precision.
With the TvC and later Brawl joysticks, Mad Catz improved and refined their manufacturing methods and made the joysticks more accurate and more consistent with each other off the assembly line.
And there always marked improvement on every generation of manufacturing.
So when Gummo tells me he thinks the Alphaâs joystick is made better than the Brawlâs Joystick (with all his modding experience) I tend to listen.
Yeah, Gummo is OP.
There is more to a joystick than just the switches used in it. Other parts in a joystick effect the feel. The spring, gate, actuator cap, and pivot are all important parts.
In the SE and brawlstick the joystick pieces are more different than the jlf. The one in the alpha has a lot more of all those parts that get closer to that of a jlf.
The buttons are different than sanwas. Shell, plunger, and switch. I wouldnt be surprised if people want to swap those out because its not what people are used to. I think due to the case size limitation Madcatz had less options for the buttons. While regular size sanwas will fit they require the prongs being bent to fit quick disconnects. That wouldnât be ideal for a manufactured stick. I havenât looked into the realm of knock off buttons but I would imagine the options are slim for a low profile button that feels like a sanwa button. I know Seimitsu has the PS-15 which is low profile. Its possible that the alpha buttons are more similar to the PS-15 than anything else.
hmm⌠glad i rechecked this thread. think iâm gonna cancel my preorder. assumed itâd have qdâs and clearance enough to throw in the extra sanwa stuff i had lying around and would be my easiest way into a standard sanwa setup on ps4. not into the bent peg idea and/or having to deal with a bunch of soldering stuff. definitely not worth it for a game iâll just be half ass playing until t7 comes out
already have two ps3 sticks that shouldfunction just fine on ps4 but alas⌠gotta love that engineered obsolescence.
not too much faith in mczâs long game right now either: http://www.polygon.com/2016/2/8/10939752/mad-catz-executive-board-changes-rock-band-4-earnings
Idk what it will have for its final build. Even if it doesnt you donât have to solder the qds on anyway. You can crimp them instead.
What do you have against having to bend the prongs? Sure if you repeatedly bend them then they will break off, but why would you have to do that.
If you want easiest sanwa setup on ps4 there is the TE+ or TE2+. Theres also the brook converters too.
Based on an eyeball view, what do you think is the biggest stick that will fit in there? Is the jlf as tight a fit as i think it might be? Iâm just wondering what it would take to put an ls-32/40 in there.
I think OBS-MX reduces the below rim length. Those should work in this if Iâm correct.
Thanks for the insight Gummo. As soon as I saw the price for this thing I knew it would be better to mod a beater stick.
One thing that limits what joystick can go in is the mounting posts. Essentially these posts go through the six holes in the jlf mounting plate and a cap covers it to keep the jlf plate in place and a screw keeps the cap on the post.
can you at least swap out for a jlf w/o messing with solder?
might give it a try if so. see how bad the stock buttons are.
if i hate the form factor iâll return it before opening it i guess.
gonna reorder on the discover card though and hitâem with that price protection option select.
Yes. All you need is a screw driver. It has a jlf harness.
sick. nevermind: http://shoryuken.com/2016/02/09/report-street-fighter-v-day-one-update-adds-legacy-controller-support-alex-coming-in-march/
might get one for portability if price drops to ~$40
Guys, is this supposed to be at Fryâs right now?
http://s10.postimg.org/h3qlq00h1/image.jpg
The back of the box in case you were wondering.
http://s10.postimg.org/km2lme1d1/image.jpg
Tempted to buy just because itâs right here in front of my face now.
Fight pad pros are here as well.
I saw a couple posts on here about whether or not you can mod these with Sanwa parts, but I didnât see this posted:
Looks like you can.
I think the idea of a small fightstick is pretty cool, but $80 is a lot for these considering Mad Catz has had sales on their fightsticks (with Sanwa parts in them) for $80 to $100. Maybe if these get a heavy discount, or thereâs a âSanwa Editionâ they might be worth it, but not now.
Personally Iâm waiting on the next Mad Catz sale; looks like theyâve still got some âUltra SFIVâ sticks; Iâd imagine those will get cheaper once SFV comes out.
MCZ Sales are definitely when to jump. With NCR and Final Round next month, thereâs sure to be some discounts. Of course, their recent shakeups may prevent that from happening.
After a lot of thought (you can get an Exar Exaprize Sanwa edition for about the same price)⌠I decided to get this.
Iâve always been a fan of small hardware with full size features, plus itâs gonna fit perfectly in my overcrowded computer desk. Iâve wanted a âsmall as it getsâ stick for a while but never got one. In fact, I remember when I finally got a hitbox I was really disappointed in finding out they discontinued the small size and I would have to get the bigger size model. Iâve been looking at small size arcade stick options for a while but theyâre all either custom so theyâre very expensive, or ugly.
Anyways, since I have spare Sanwa parts from a hrap that got all rusted (love the stick, but had to gut it, plastic is the way to go for people like me who sweat a lot) I decided to get the stick and also did this little breadboard harness for when it comes in.
http://i.imgur.com/7nTFD7Q.jpg
Once itâs here I can just desolder/cut the button cables and put them in the little snap in holes. I linked the ground in the board so I donât have to daisy chain it.
Why not just solder the quick disconnects to the cables? Because based on the pics Iâve seen those cables are VERY short, and I donât want to solder directly to the PCB, plus that 7 pin harness that connects the buttons to the PCB seems hard to find for a decent price, and this way I get to use the cables and cool little 2 pin harnesses from the hrap.
Bonus: Pics of the donor stick proving the JLF and OBSF buttons:
Doesnât look too bad from the top, huh? (that moisture on the bottom of the x button is sweat from picking it up) [details=Spoiler]
http://i.imgur.com/G8ZiTrF.jpg
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But if you turn it around⌠[details=Spoiler]
http://i.imgur.com/AD6g4Lh.jpg
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The other side of the back plate [details=Spoiler]
http://i.imgur.com/eZ2lHTz.jpg
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Other side of the top/metal plate where the buttons snap in [details=Spoiler]
http://i.imgur.com/l0LRosW.jpg
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Finally, it was soooo rusted not even CLR could take out the rust IN THE PLASTIC HOUSING of the buttons so actually I ordered some new buttons (nobody sells the housing separately). [details=Spoiler]
http://i.imgur.com/6MtBxyj.jpg
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In the end Iâll just use the old microswitches and mix and match colors from the plungers of the old buttons with the housing of the new buttons. Iâll keep the new microswitches and whatâs left as spares.
Iâll post the finished stick once I get it and work on it.
Where? What Fryâs? Iâve seen the Pads at Sunnyvale CA Fryâs but not the Alpha stick.
So the Hayabusa stick wonât fit, but how about kuro buttons? Will those fit? I have a hrap with great hurt buttons for the 360 that I would love to put in the alpha stick if possible. Also, since itâs not quick connect and requires some sodering. How difficult is it to crimp the wires rather that soder?