Hmm, guess I’ll have to try both then
so this seemed like the most appropriate thread for this.
i have a jlw and i really like how it is stock, but i bought a bunch of microswitches and wanted to try them out.
the stock microswitches on my JLW don’t seem to say anything on them except “Sanwa”. Anyone know what the actuation force on these are?
I tried a few types Gersung (from m fanta), Omron v-152-1a5 (felt similar to stock), and d2rv-lg. Feels best stock so far, but i think I’d like the d2rv-lg’s with a heavier spring.
Going to try some of your mods this weekend.
edit: ever tried the Ultimarc modded JLW (cant remember the name off the top of my head). Any thoughts on that?
Never tried Ultimarc anything.
Stock Sanwa branded Zippy switches on a JLW should be close to 200 gf or 1.98 newtons. D2RV-LG I think are closer to 100 or 125 gf.
Wow. I’ve had a JLW-TM-8 for about a decade because I read they were supposed to install easier in an X-Arcade. Never bothered and it’s just been sitting in its bag. Now you’re saying I could get an LS-32, gut it, and actually use the JLW? Awesome.
And heck, if it doesn’t pan out, I’ll have an LS-32. Seems to get equal amounts of praise/hate just like the JLW itself, but I’ll be the judge of that…
so with d2rv-LGs on the jlw I’m running into something weird. 2 of the four cardinal directions get stopped by the gate before they engage. rotating it or trying to adjust it slightly only results in 2 other directions not engaging.
did I get a bad restrictor gate or…?
I mean I get that some switches might not be compatible, but you’d think either all of the direct ions would engage or none of them would.
No, actually that was one of the exact reasons I did the mod in the first place. I had the same exact problem, on 2 separate JLW levers. Both gates did the same exact thing. Methinks there is a manufacturing defect with the measurements of the gate. Even with stock switches, 2 directions activate at different distances than the other 2. It’s usually down/left vs up/right, or however you have the gate rotated.
Wow. I haven’t had this problem.
Should double check. Light touch switches are very noticeable since for example, Zippy and Omron reed switches engage a bit deeper than standard Omron switches or lack the tension to get that “oomph” to push down on. What you may want to do is look at where the actuator hits each switch and clicks and compare the distance of the actuator from the gate in each direction. It wouldn’t surprise me of 2 were near touching the gate and 2 were about a mm away from the gate. That’s how both my JLW levers were and seems to be the case for @skaloola as well.
Weird. This is really surprising tom me as this is Sanwas most mature lever. So I was thinking up of ways to workaround this (without turning it into a jlw-40)… and I figured I’d just use it without a restrictor gate at all.
In place of the restrictor gate, I screwed in some washers to keep the microswitches in place. I was playing Guilty Gear with it for 20 min or so. It actually feels pretty good, but still need to play some more.
I can post some pics if you still want me to, but I doubt there’s anything you’d be able to tell from them.
It’s pretty easy to not take notice of it stock. It isn’t until you start using switches that engage deeper that you do. Most people aren’t like us and don’t mod their levers all that much.
I’ve modded mine to a JLW-01 and I really can’t tell if there is any difference in the distance from actuator to gate in any direction. I’ll break out my caliper later tonight and see if I can get some measurements.
Try without the PCB. I think it could be a number of things, such as the switches resting loose on those protrusions on the base. Try Zippy 20 gram if you have them, or reed switches. Something that activates deep.
Copy that.
Thought I could share this here since this could be the only JLW talk on the internet,
My main gripe with the JLW was always it’s flimsy acrylic restrictor gates, but a few days ago while I was dismantling an old candy cab that I got, one thing called my attention, the sticks that came mounted looked very similar to JLW’s but these were awful and made in China, although the restrictor gate while looking like straight clone of the JLW round gate, they seem to be made of nylon, my first thought was to try it on an actual JLW and this is what I got:
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac8/chinitosoccer/100_1688_zps7vfdingl.jpg
http://i880.photobucket.com/albums/ac8/chinitosoccer/100_1690_zpsijqftriz.jpg
I installed it over the original square restrictor gate, it doesn’t change the actual “feel” of the stick but it adds to the robustness of the gate.
I agree, there should be better materials than acrylic on the JLW, the gate is the weakest point of the design. ABS, Nylon, Derlin, metal, ect…
I saw somewhere someone had an aluminum gate but I never found out where he got it.
The guy who made an aluminum gate for JLW is the korean tester Kuenste, he even posted vids some time ago of his (circle restrictor) prototype.
It’s only a proto since the restrictor doesn’t have any sort of coating that is usually necessary when you have dry sliding with aluminum.
To reduce/prevent crack propagation in the shitty stock JLW restrictors:
…use flat round nylon washers that match the screws and the cavities in which the screws rest. It will distribute the pressure . ( ultimarc’s “jstik” which really is a jlw in disguise, has such nylon washers see them here https://www.ultimarc.com/images/j-bot.jpg )
I’ve been talking about alternate jlw gates for a while. even if the chinese jlw clones are junk with laughable pivots , their gates are sometimes worth the while (talking about the opaque bright colored ones which generally are nylon made) .
–some do not have the same throw nor same engage as stock JLW restrictor though!–
Nylon jlw clone restrictors :
-The circle one Voldom bought has a diameter which matches the diagonal of the rounded square restrictor hole, so it’s just a clone of the circle JLW restrictor (GT-O), just made of nylon.
Go for it! The problem is the part isn’t available as a seperate unit, you have to buy that crappy clone stick to salvage the nylon restrictor.
-another example of nylon jlw restrictor on a chinese clone that has a body with similar screw locations. it illustrates the different throw and engage (different actuator also).
-ultimarc’s “ultrastik 360” has or rather had (saw the kit on ebay , but official site shows transparent ocot…) an octogonal nylon restrictor ( http://www.ultimarc.com/images/U360_restrictors.jpg ) that is compatible with a genuine JLW. It’s part of a 14USD restrictor kit that is officially compatible with JLW and derived clones. Note, only the octo seems made of a reddish nylon, the two others (round and square) are the usual JLW transparent items.
-a white square nylon restrictor for JLW is also made for ultimarc for his “servostik”.
It has a protruding part that connects with a motor, but that can be cut off easily. Alas the part is not for sale seperately , same for the U360 nylon octo restrictor that
-shapeways (3d printing website) has a white nylon octo gate for JLW , it is for sale for around 10euros. I talked about it on this thread:
Ultimarc’s jlw looking models are not clones but rebranded models (some are modded thouigh) coming from sanwa and happ( or IL).
Something worth noting:
-Industrias Lorenzo’s “Universal Joystick” has a black nylon restrictor and a lower body ( the part where the switches are installed) oddly similar to sanwa JLW.
See tech sheet: http://www.industrias-lorenzo.com/en/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=204
I suspect the gate is compatible with a JLW, it is EXTREMELY close in design, even the rotational design is implemented (8 to 4 way design , when turning counterclockwise!) . Ultimarc calls his version “e-stik” ( http://www.ultimarc.com/images/s-bott.jpg ).
It is really a nylon clone of the JLW square restrictor, but made of nylon. Worth checking out.
From a historical point of view, it would be interesting to know who designed that “JLW” housing and restrictor design first: IL/Happ or Sanwa…?
The JLW is Sanwa attempt to compete with-in the same market as Happ/IL parts. The JLW can mount in many of the same cabs the Happ/IL can with no or little modification.
I don’t know who came up with the gate first, but there ALOT of copy cats in the Arcade Parts business, sometimes different companies buy components all from the same sources or use standardize components rather than make everything in-house.
Also thanks for the tip about the washers. By the way would you know what size nylon washers are those?
It’s been a while since I had a JLW at hand.
Watch out for the washers on ultimarc’s various JLW style gates, some gates are flat without depressions to house the screw heads, thus ultimarc relies for some models only on friction (it’s ok if the gate is like the octo one from them, but not for the servostik gatewhich relies oinly on friction fastening to prevent slippage to random position between 8 and 4 way)
Choosing nylon washers is a child’s play. outer diam should match the diam of the circular depressions. Personally I’d go for anything betwwen 3/4 - 1.5mm thickness. Internal diameter should match the screw threading.
Alternatively you could opt for machine screws in nylon/reinforced nylon which are cheap in price and will not need additional washers. Opt for the largest thickest head that could match the depressions on the gate, length&threading of course the same as stock screws. Peek, pss,acetal, carbon comp etc screws are more expensive and unnecessary here, but feel free to try .
Nylon screws have properties that make them absorb impact and dampen the forces for those who “ride the gate” often, they are beyond comparison more forgiving to the material in the jlw gates than rigid and hard steel screws, and will dampen better than a simple nylon washer(a washer only distributes on the surface on which it is clamped, not in the hole in which the screw is fitted) . If nylon screws wear, they’re cheap to replace anyways.
This wouldn’t be an issue at all if years ago sanwa chose the right grade of plastic for their jlw gates or alternatively used nylon screws or made gates out of nylon like seimitsu.
The great thing about JLW for me is that it really needs not be modded. The JLW-01 mod is the only thing I ever do. That’s one gate removal. After that it stays fastened. If you don’t change it often you rarely have anything to worry about.