You can set the FGWidget LED Controller to Invert Mode.
That would fix it.
Laugh.
Kuya_Joe installed Old-style LED Buttons to FGWidget LED Controller on his ABC.
Except the directional LEDs aren’t hooked up to the FGWidget, only the Punch/Kick LEDs. 
Toodles told me to hook them up to the SOCD Cleaner, which I did. That’s what this is about.
Oh, I didn’t read your Post.
Kuya_Joe also added SOCD Cleaner of Toodles.
Though I don’t know what he did.
Or if the SOCD Cleaner is in the ABC of his that I am thinking of.
Depends on how you wired it.
For light-on activation, it should be (vcc)—(LED anode)(LED cathode)–(resistor)—(direction signal on ‘to pcb’ end)
[resistor and LED can swap places if needed, as long as the cathode leg of the LED is on SOCD cleaner side and anode leg is on VCC side.]
Because of the open drain chip, I am not seeing how you could do wire ti to behave that way. When not active, those signals on the ‘to pcb’ side of the SOCD cleaner shouldn’t be able to provide any power to the LED, although the pullup resistor of whatever the main pcb is could, but it’d have to be very faint.
That should work, although I think it’s better to have the buttons going to the SOCD cleaner and the outputs on the ‘to pcb’ side going to both Cthulhu and 360 pad so the U+D setting on the SOCD cleaner will trump all.
Gotcha. Well I already told him about the light-off activation, and he said he kind of likes that contrast with the light-on buttons. I’ll keep it as-is, but note that for the future. I’m assuming a 10k ohm resistor would work?
It’s actually very faint. It’s a subtle effect, though. Kind of nice.
Thanks, I’ll make sure to generally wire them like that in the future.
Well, it’d work, but it’d be way too faint for most people’s liking. 1k would be safer, and never less than 330ohm for red or green, and never less than 220ohm for white or blue. As always, less resistance = more current = brighter LED.
The 10K’s you’re used to seeing are for pulling up the voltage on a signal line. It’s that high so the current when a button is pressed is way low.
That seals it then. The power to the LEDs is coming from those pull ups on the Cthulhu (8-12k depending, usually 10k).
You most likely had them wired (GND)—(resistor)—(LED Cathode/LED Anode)—(signal)
When you add in the pull ups on the cthulhu and assume the signal isnt active, that makes it:
(GND)—(resistor)—(LED Cathode/LED Anode)—(10k pull up on Cthulhu)----(VCC)
So the power comes from vcc, through the pull up, through the LED, to ground, with a very light amount of current causing a very faint LED light.
Actually, how I have them wired is as follows:
(GND)—(LED Cathode/LED Anode)—(To PCB signal)
Any way I could up the brightness a little?
You could add another resistor in parallel to the pull up resistor, but you’d definitely be doing so at your own risk.
I think I’m just gonna let sleeping dogs lie. I’m learning this medicine I’m on for pain compromises my critical thinking, so I’d best not mess with it any longer.
question about the fgwidget, is there only that one point labelled ground? are there any other point on the board that i can solder to ground? (how about those top 6 points labelled blk-grn?)
im installing fgwidget to vlx kitty. i’m daisy chaining my grounds from knserts. if there arent any other points then i’ll just tap into kitty board. thanks
You should check it with a meter since I havent checked the schematic, but I think the two holes on the ‘blk’ side are connected to ground.
i’ll do that. thanks!
Do you think that a dual strike can handle the non inverter method? Also i have 6 green leds of 5mm and 100 ohm resistors, will they work or the seller did the wrong maths?
BTW, will those leds fit into these buttons?
Cool to ask this here?
I have a controller I use 90% of the time via USB. If it were 100% of the time, I could put LEDs that work off of 5V into it and be done with it. + would be wired to 5V on each LED and - would be wired to button signal so that pressing the buttons gives + a path to - and lets the LED light.
However, I use this controller with PSX/2 the other 10% of the time, which has a 3.3V rail instead of 5V, and this is worrying me a bit.
My question is:
Will these “5V LEDs” just not turn on when plugged into PS2, or will they try and suck in as much current as possible in order to light? The former is fine, the latter will blow some fuses…
http://www.affiliatebible.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/wise.jpg
From my understanding, you can’t just Suck more electricity. Electrical current does not work that way.
Ether your LEDS light up or they don’t. If they do light up they might be a bit dim. And its hard to say as many LEDs manufacturers so they all don’t have the same specs.
What you can do Look up the LEDs and check out on their data sheet what voltages the LED is rated for. What kind of LED you are using will also effect this, 3mm SMD ect…
Thanks for the insight, very pleased to hear that this should work like I want it to.
Hello everyone,
I am so happy I found this page. I am trying to do something very similar to this. However, instead of my LEDs lighting up on activation, I want to have a solenoid (a knocker) knock on a piece of metal to make noise. So each time I push on a button, I will have like a banging noise activated. So instead of LEDs, I’m want to use a solenoid.
The main problem is that 5v is too weak for a solenoid and 12v would be better. Is there Hex Invertor which would support 12v? And which uses the same inputs and outputs as on the 74HCT04 Hex Invertor? From what I understand, the 74HCT04 Hex Invertor has a maximum voltage of 7v right?
Thank you for your help!
Second time in the same thread
Get a relay and a second power source, a power source that supplies your 12 volts (12 volt battery pack?) that separate from 5 volt system.
You might be better off installing a small electronic device that plays a sound from a speaker rather than a solenoid
I don’t see the problem in necroing the thread, it’s pretty much the de-facto “activate something on button press” thread here.
It becomes a tradition and long running joke on tech talk