What about using power from the actual controller/USBs? Toodles we need to chat, hahaha.
I’ve been wanting to mod a Hori xbox 360 stick with a PSone Dual Shock for a while, and have been wondering, can the 4 leds on the top for the home button be powered by the analog light?
If so, do I just detach the light on the controller and just have wiring running to the LEDs or what?
Thanks for the help.
Err, it may be tricky. IIRC, the analog LED on dual shocks are bidirectional; it shows green when the current goes through one way, and red when going the other. So, you could make one led light up with its normally green, and nothing when red, easy enough. I don’t know if the LEDs around the home button share a common line. If they don’t, you could have one LED when normally green, and another when normally red.
As for powering all four, I have no idea what kind of power outputs the analog light have, so I can’t say for sure.
Get me a good picture of that little board with the LEDs on it from the DOA4 stick, and I could probably tell you more.
Oh, and send me the main PCB you rip out of the Hori stick 
Pretty please?
It seems to only work for PS2, although the LEDs seems to glow about half as bright as they usually do. I had up to 4 white LEDs powered by the PCB and it didn’t miss any inputs. However, you won’t be able to play on DC. It wasn’t reading any inputs whatsoever.
so is the LED draw voltage from both the battery and the PCB or only from the battery?
With the switch on and batteries in, the LEDs will be powered solely by the batteries. When the switch is off, a little bit of voltage is bleeding in from the buttons, causing the dim lighting TingBoy described.
Edited per TingBoys clarification
Oh no no no. The dim lighting doesn’t seem to do anything. It happens on both DC and PS2 and doesn’t seem to do anything. The problems with the DC adapter only happens when you power 2 or more LEDs through the 3.3v line in the PCB (I checked for pc1x1 since he asked a few posts earlier).
and what is that black wire coming directly from the PCB to the ground pin of the hex converter?
That would be an extra ground going to the ground of the hex inverter.
TingBoy: I emailed you some cleaner schematic that you might include on the tutorial but you don’t seem to have checked your mailbox yet (?).
There’s a PDF of it too
The URLs are only temporary so if you can move them to a more permament place, please do so.
EDIT: white background added, schematic tweaked a little, pic upscaled.
Haven’t checked my emails in awhile =P. I’ll add that diagram to my first post when I get home. The only difference between that and my wiring is that I put the switch on the positive end of the batteries (not that it matters…i think).
Edit: And I just noticed the ground for the button is supposed to come from the PCB. Mind as well use those grounds instead of having them dangle around.
Hey Toodles, I was just wondering if you could give further insight on an auto switch off version of this mod. I can’t find a good spot/don’t want to drill a hole in my HRAP2 case.
So, based on what you posted earlier and on what I’ve been reading, I’m guessing I’ll be needing an NPN transistor and 2 resistors (fill me in on the Ohm ratings =P) to make an RTL inverter. How is the transistor going to be hooked up? After looking at a few examples online, I’m guessing the 3.3v of the PCB be connected to the base, the collector to the positive end of the battery pack, then the emitter to the 74HCT04.
You have the right idea, or at least what I was thinking. I suck with analog circuits, so this is has a higher chance of me being off my rocker.
What I was thinking is to have a wire from the 3.3v line of the PSX cable going towards your setup. Have it go through a power diode of some sort (the black kind , not the clear glass with red kind. Just about any will do. The glass ones could work too, but aren’t really the best when dealing with power situations.) and connect it to the + wire coming from your battery. The diode will keep the battery power from powering the PSX PCB, and if there is no power from the battery, provide a proper power source for the inverter so it’ll work properly without having the bleed power from the inputs. The gray stripe that marks one end of the diode needs to be the end going to the battery +. The non-stripe end goes to the +3.3v line from the PSX cable. From how it has been acting from TingBoys description, there will still be a little light coming from the LEDs, but definitely not enough to strike fear into the hearts of all challengers. That was idea #1.
Idea #2 is very similar to what you suggested; an NPN transistor to switch the access to the battery on or off. Something like a 2N3904 (if you are dealing with 200mA or less) or a 2N2222 (if you are dealing with >200mA, but less than 800mA. If you want to be sure on the first one, get the 2n2222). I havent had a chance to clearly visualize it, so if you could draw another awesome picture TingBoy for me to look at before doing it, I’d appreciate it.
The idea is to have the battery + line going to power the inverter; no power switch like in the drawing. Yes, you can still connect the diode from #1 here.The trick is to connect the ground (pin 7) from the inverter and all of the ends of the LEDs together; these do NOT get connected to the ground from the PSX PCB! Instead, they get connected to the Collector pin of the transistor. The Emitter pin is connected to the PSX ground and the - wire of the battery.
The base pin is, like you said, going to go through a resistor to the 3.3v line from the PSX. The resistor values I state here are definitely going to be fuzzy, but for this one, I would want it to be something liek 5k ohm. This connection will basically be going directly to ground, so you want enough juice to keep the transistor kicked on, but as little as possible to keep from wasting power.
Now, between the resistor and the base pin, you’re gonna connect another resistor. It needs to be a good chunk higher resistance than the one on the base pin, something like 20k ohm or higher. This one is just to make sure the switch is off if there isn’t power on the pin. The other leg connects to ground or battery - or the Emitter pin of the transistor. (Realized this paragraph may be confusing, so I’ll word another way: The base pin of the transistor is connected to TWO resistors; the 5k ohm one going to the 3.3v PSX cable, and the other 20k ohm one going to the Emitter pin.)
So, if theres juice on the power pin, the juice through the 5k ohm resistor is much stronger than the little 20k connection to ground, so the switch turns on, and the power from the battery can flow all the way back to the other terminal of the battery. If there’s nothing on the power pin, the 20k ohm resistor makes sure the switch stays off, and no power can go anywhere; the + end of the battery is only connected to two things: The 3.3v PSX wire, which can’t affect anything since the diode prevents the battery from powering the PSX pad, and the inverter. The inverter can’t do squat because the power out goes straight to an off transistor. That’s the idea anyways.
Inevitable question: Why not put the transistor exactly where the drawing of the switch was in the first place? Transistors cause a voltage drop, just like LED’s and diodes. Putting it between the power sink and ground accomplishes the same thing, but doesn’t reduce the available voltage those items could use; More brightness.
Looks like I’m going shopping soon =). I think I understand most of it. I’ll see if I can make a drawing by tomorrow or Saturday =P
Sorry… can’t send the PCB for free. Heh. 
Nice try though.
I’ll try to have a pic up tonight or tomorrow… but I think i’ll just give a shot tonight anyways just for fun. I’m pretty sure PSone DS only light up red when activated. The green & red I think is for the original analogue without rumble?
Nor did I intend you to. How much should I Paypal you for it?
Hmm, i just realized, what wattage do the 5k and 20k resistors need to be? 1/8 watt or something higher like a 2 or 4 watt?
Figure 1/8th watt or higher will be plenty for any > 1k resistance. 1/4 w or more for any LEDs <1k. Watt = current*voltage. If you have four batteries, thats 6v. Smallest resistor I mentioned was 220 ohm for the LEDs. Current = V/R, 6v/220ohm= 0.027 Ampere. 0.027 Ampere * 6v = 0.163 W, which is greater than 1/8th of a watt, and well under 1/4 of a watt.
Chances are 1/4 W will be the most common you’ll find, and work just peachy for everything youll need.
Off to Fry’s Electronics then =). I have a sketch of Idea #2 on a post it note, so I’ll draw it on Paint and post it up =P
I’d want to have an eye on a proper schematic because the one I made as per Toodles instructions doesn’t seem to work (or I don’t understand it). It seems to me that the Emitter and Collector pins of the transistor are reversed to allow power to circulate from +3.3 V to PCB GND.
Also, I don’t understand what the 20k resistor is here for (yes i read many times the explanation but still I don’t understand why the switch could activate if there’s no power).
I have a feeling the circuit would be easier with a dc-dc step-up converter, would remove the necessity of internal batteries and be a little less wasteful (just an opinion, i haven’t checked).