Sorry for OT but what app are you making these drawings in? They’re ridiculously clean looking.
Still intend to post pics of a completed board Heavy? Would be a great help to those of us who have zero experience building circuits.
If these questions are for me,
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I’ve never sold them and probably won’t anytime soon. Too busy with other stuff.
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Seimitsu PS-14-K, PS-14-KN, PS-14-GN (clear), or any other non-opaque buttons.
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I don’t sell them
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I’ve tried hooking up 3 white LEDs w/o a battery or resistors and it caused problems with my stick + dreamcast converter. On PS2 alone, it seemed ok. Don’t know about any other systems. However, Kaytrim used to sell kits that were powered off the stick and customers didn’t seem to have any problems.
Hey sorry it took so long for me to get back i’ve been busy with school.
First just to let you know I am not the OP I am just a guy that stumbled upon this thread in my expedition of the interwebs and found the information very useful and tried to add to it. TingBoy is the OP.
I have started a thread for the purpose of asking me questions about my project so that we don’t clutter up this thread and detract from it original purpose.
The link for it is http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=6146157#post6146157.
Here are the answers to the current questions
- As far as the pricing and purchasing of a board for any combination of buttons and LEDs; I can’t say yet because I am still working through the actual application of the circuitry. When I get this stuff figured out I will post in the new thread stating so and then arrangements can be made.
The buttons TingBoy mentioned are the best ones for the job.
I am also working on getting the board powered off of the stick itself for the XB360 in getting ready for SFIV. As for other systems I have not tried to figure it out but depending on the success of the project I may try to work something up for other systems as the need arises.
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The program I am using for my rough drawings is Adobe Fireworks CS3. Its a pretty good program for clean non pixelated lines.
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I still plan to post pics, I just have not gotten a working mock up done because using a perf board is just not sane for the way I want to do it. I could post a picture of the one I did try but it was a spectacular failure because, though it seemed to function correctly, there was a problem with the LEDs freaking out and I believe it to be a result of signal crossover. This being a result of the spider web of wires that arose.
So to fix this I have ordered some prototype PC Boards from a company and I am going to try them out to see if they fix the problem.
If anybody has any more questions regarding my project please post them in the new thread.
Finally I would like to say thanks to TingBoy, and everybody else who contributed, for all the help that this thread offered me and that without it I would have not been able to take my project anywhere.
Hey guys!!!
Hey ill pay somebody if the can make me a stick that lights up just let me kno the price and ill buy it asap!!! I really need a stick bad my cord is goin out and my buttons so if someone can make a stick that lights up on the buttons and the stick then ill buy it asap!!! If i need to buy the buttons and parts just let me kno ok. Send me a message
Thanks,
WolfGang
Would anybody be willing to sell me 1 or 2 74hct04 hex inverters and put them in an envelope for me? Every electronics store online has a $25 minimum or an outrageous shipping charge. The radioshack here doesn’t carry them and there are no other electronics parts stores in my town (San Luis Obispo, CA).
They wouldnt survive in an envelope; the letter sorting machines would tear the envelope and youd receive a torn envelope and no chips. In order for it not to get destroyed, first class lightest possible runs about $1.50, plus figure another $1 for the padded envelope. $2.50 and two weeks.
Instead, order from mouser and get the USPS Priority Mail shipping option. Shipping will be $4.95 for up to I think a pound of stuff. (I doubt they use flat rate boxes). You’ll have your stuff in 3-4 days for a grand total of $6-$7.
Newark is good too =). Got all of the parts for my Cmoy amplifier from them in very nice padded envelopes within a box =)
Ok, I put in an order from mouser for some 74hct04n ICs. What is the n for? Sorry I’m an electronics noob. I have a cthulu board, and the schematics in the thread are a little confusing (a bit different than the ones I’ve seen in physics 3 and electric circuit theory class, no practical experience :looney:). Could I just hook up a wire from the button to the hex inverter, and then the hex inverter to the cthulu board? This guide (http://padhacking.numbski.com/index.php/How_to_make_buttons_light_up_on-press.) says to strip the wire in the middle and then solder it a wire to it, then solder that to the input pin. From my understanding, it is all one node (button->IC->cthulu) so why would you need to do that instead of just having a wire from the button->IC and then a wire from IC->cthulu.
Edit: don’t know why I didn’t think of it before, all you do is crimp an extra wire into the quickdisconnect for the button and connect that to the hex inverter right?
Also I see people are using barrier strips to connect the grounds of the leds together. Again, I have no practical experience so I can’t see why you just don’t take all the grounds from the leds, wire for ground from IC, and a wire from the last daisy chained ground from the buttons and solder them together into a big soldered goop and then wrap electric tape around it. On second thought that sounds kind of messy. I still don’t understand how people are using barrier strips however, do you stick all the grounds from the leds into one side of the screw terminal, and then on the other side you have one from the ground from the pcb, small wires to daisy chain terminal to terminal, and then the ground from the last button to the end?
led led led led led (all grounds) <- barrier strip layout? it looks to me like a 1 to 1 top to bottom connection for each terminal
pcb U U U U button
Sorry for all the questions, like I said I’m an electronics noob :wasted:.
do you think i can do this with the TE stick?
Potential noob question
Hey guys, I found the following hex inverter and was wondering if it would work for this mod. It is a 74LS04 Hex Inverter for those not wanting to click the link. Thanks in advance!
http://www.atariage.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=208
Ok so I made an LED board but my buttons/cthulu board/joystick hasn’t come in/shipped from lizard lick yet. Is there any way to test if this works? I don’t have a multimeter but I guess I could buy one if need be.
Also, does the LED board look correct (see two pictures below)? Two wires are missing from IC-> screw terminal because I thought it was a good idea to use the legs from the resistors I cut off but then realized I threw all but two away. Forgive my crappy soldering, I’ve only soldered once before and it was a long time ago.
At this point, all I have to do is attach one wire from the button to the appropriate screw terminals, and then one wire from the LED (and then connect the grounds of the LED connector and connect that to the ground from the cthulu), right?
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/349/img0289.jpg
http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/964/img0290.jpg
Okay, I have a question going all the way back to the start of this post.
I do not quite understand how engaging the button switch causes the voltage on the input leg to drop. Does voltage flow away from the hex inverter, making the leg essentially have no voltage? This is something I’m a little stuck trying to understand.
You’re confusing current with voltage. Voltage doesn’t flow. Read through this, and let me know if you still have any questions afterwards
http://www.instructables.com/id/SE1H1MZFH9HU4TX/
I’m sure the answer is yes for all of these, but I’m going to ask anyway. I don’t want things exploding because I made a bad assumption :looney:
- Can you still daisy chain the grounds of your buttons?
- The red wire from a battery holder is +?
- The switch needs to be between the + and VCC, right? In one picture in the OP, the switch is between + and VCC, in the other it’s between - and ground
Yeah, I used the wrong term there. I was getting a bit frustrated thinking about it, until I started messing with a PCB, and got more comfortable with what was happening. That page pretty much reviewed what I already knew. This is like a thought stumble I had way back in physics where I was wondering why fully covered containers didn’t have a lower pressure inside.
I’m centering on rewriting most of my PCB and wiring page, and making many things more straight-forward and accurate, adding lots of pictures, because that is like where 95% of questions come about my site. I want to understand everything I can so I can avoid inaccuracies.
While I’m at it I might as well also ask this question, and hopefully a quick answer that does not take too much time will cover it: Why do modern PCBs use so many resistors and capacitors? Does it have to do with encoding the electronic frequencies for data? Is timing somehow involved?
On a lot of them, I just don’t know about all of them. The one in Hori PSX sticks is simple; theres one main capacitor and maybe a smaller capacitor, both to help smooth out the power so there is no sudden dips or spikes in voltage. Other than that, its just a single chip, so the pull up resistors are done inside the chip. On a lot of the USB based ones, there are additional components to regulate the power; USB provides +5v, but all of the logic on the two communication wires happen at 3.3v, so the voltage regulators drop the voltage before the chip.
A lot of the surface mount resistors you see have just a ‘0’ written on them. They’re just jumpers, made to hop over a trace on that side. They don’t provide any electrical change at all.
A good chunk of the resistors you see are pull up resistors, made to bring the button or direction signal line up to a high voltage when not pressed. As for the rest, I got no clue.
There are capacitors on the MadCatz fightstick pcb’s between the signal line of a button/direction and +voltage. When a physical switch gets pressed, there’s a lot of electrical noise for a couple of microseconds, when the voltages bounces all around. The capacitors on those lines help smooth things out so its a slower transistion from high to low, instead of the high noise highlowhighlowhighlow bouncing. So it’s called ‘debouncing’ a switch.
For a lot of the others, I just have no clue. I can point to reasons why some are there, but some just baffle me.
I would imagine if they were very small caps, in the .1uF range that these are bypass caps. Each IC should have at least one bypass cap, preferable two, one large and one small to take care of various frequencies to bypass.
One thing I think should be explained that I’ve yet to see is how a common ground pad works versus a non-common ground pad; bonus points if for describing pros and cons of each. I’ll leave it to you gamepad aficionados to explain this as I don’t want to give out misinformation by mistake.
Hey… kindof off-topic… but an LED question nonetheless.
I was planning on putting 15 LEDs (white and green) in my case (9 buttons and 6 for underglow), I was just wondering how many batteries would be recommended to power all this? I was plugging in some numbers in the resistor calculator and 3-4 AAs (do you just do 1.5V x how ever many AAs you have? That’s what I did) seemed to work fine. Would this be OK? I want it to be fairly bright.
At 3x AA batteries (4.5V)… it says I should have a resistor 68 Ohms and at 4x AA batteries (6V) jumps to 150 Ohms. So would I be fine just going with 3x AAs?
Thanks. Yeah, a lot of PCBs are pretty confusing in this.
Another off-topic question:
What IC did you use in those boards for making non-CG 360 PCBs work with joysticks better?
Edit: Nevermind, found the info; in fact I ordered some of these like almost a year ago and forgot about them.