That is correct, should I change it?
I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that @āJasen Hicksā prepared his code generator for a specific layout
If you can rewire it like so and test if works then we know what happened, remember to also regenerate the code for a valid test. I have a J2 code base but I need to revisit it to clean since Iāve only been working on animations.
Switched it up and reuploaded the file. Just trying to have the lights stay yellow and when pressed turn orange. What i get is the L kick orange, and the rest are yellow. When i press l punch, the l kick changes colors but none of the other buttons respond. Also I have silencers in my buttonsā¦ could that cause a problem? I was wondering around paradise arcade and notice they have some different ones for LEDS, i have these [Link. Assuming im going to need something like this? [Link
//BOOT AND IDLE SEQUENCE TIMING
#define BOOT_COLOR_DELAY 250
#define BOOT_COMPLETE_DELAY 500
#define MAIN_LOOP_DELAY 50
#define IDLE_TIMEOUT_SECONDS 10
#define IDLE_ANIMATION_DELAY 5
#define BRIGHTNESS 1
//LED INDEX
#define LED_P4 14
#define LED_P4_B 15
#define LED_P3 12
#define LED_P3_B 13
#define LED_P2 10
#define LED_P2_B 11
#define LED_P1 8
#define LED_P1_B 9
#define LED_JOY 0xFF
#define LED_K4 0
#define LED_K4_B 1
#define LED_K3 2
#define LED_K3_B 3
#define LED_K2 4
#define LED_K2_B 5
#define LED_K1 6
#define LED_K1_B 7
#define LED_SELECT 0xFF
#define LED_SELECT_B 0xFF
#define LED_HOME 0xFF
#define LED_HOME_B 0xFF
#define LED_START 0XFF
#define LED_START_B 0xFF
#define LED_COUNT 16
You want for all buttons to turn orange when any button is pressed?
Yes, i didnt realize you made a post. I updated my original post to give more details on whats going on. I think it might be a silencer issue?
Just to discard it can you remove the silencers and test? It could be that the light is bleeding to the other button but we wont know until you remove the silencer pads.
Will do!
Iām not sure silencer pads make a difference, Iām using the OBSC buttons with the silencers in and donāt have any issues with bleeding colours, all of my issues were caused my either wiring or coding problems.
While chiming in - quick question of my own:
Since I havenāt managed to find a slip ring type solution to my snapping balltop LED wires problem (I considered a 4 pole 2.5mm audio jack, but I donāt think there is any way Iād be able to hook that all up and fit it all inside the hollow JLF shaft with my meagre skills/tools)
So Iāve considered, instead, swapping out the Balltop LED, and hooking one of these in underneath the baseplate:
Can this be hooked up to the kaimana? Or do I need to go back to finding a solution to the Balltop LED problem?
(Other solutions are just buy a whole load of the RGB LEDs and just swap them out whenever they snap, or buy this and switch from JLF to JLW which I donāt really want to do - Iām told this shaft wont fit in a JLF)
The neopixel rings are too large for what you are attempting, plus they work as individual leds so a 12 pixel ring would be adding 12 leds to your setup. I use a 12 pixel ring to test animations!
Now that you put that ebay link I went through and searched for slipring, im not sure how expensive this would be for you but it looks like it would work:
Ah wasnāt sure if the neopixel ring would fit in the gap between the plate and the JLFā¦
Would that slip ring just āhangā underneath the hollow shaft? I figured Iād need something that would at least āplug inā to the bottom of the shaft? But its cheap enough that providing I can get hold of another RGB LED from paradise arcade without having to get a mortgage to pay for shipping to the UK it could be worth tryingā¦
sorry i havent progress at all because of work (what i did last: microswitcehs already daisy chained) , so what i understand is, it doesnt matter if the breakout has one gnd for kicks and one gnd for punches i can send all my grounds into a single one? ( yes i am in diapers with this)
edit (todays progress):
connect all gnd cables into a single one like this.
http://i.imgur.com/ACmSE1j.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/u3t4O7n.jpg
the end of the black cable should go into any of the gnd pins in the kaimana breakout.
was this the way to go?
Yes it would just sit beneath the shaft because you want the led to spin freely. As for LED it can be any rgb led granted you are willing to wire up the leads.
Yes this is the correct approach. Any GND spot in the Breakout wil do.
Hae anyone installed the kaimana breakout in the panzer 3? Iām looking to install one but not sure how it would interact with the ribbon. Is it possible to ribbon into the kaimana then use the screw terminals to connect to the ufb?
Hello, everyone!
I have a Kaimana Mini mounted via 20-pin onto a Universal Fighting Board and Iām having an issue where when I press and hold the 2K/MK button one of the two LEDs on that J2 lights up properly and the other will briefly flash. I used the Kaimana Khameleon Code generator website to make the code. Iāve been looking around and Iāve seen others have had the same issue but I canāt seem to find a concrete solution. Iām sorry if it has been addressed already.
Dont use the breakout. Just pop it down onto the UFB 20P header then connect the ribbon to the pass through pins on the Mini, assuming it still has the passthrough pins. Alternatively, use a Kaimana Khameleon.
Iāve yet to find anywhere else that sells RGB LEDs with actual wires coming out, the only ones I can find are the ones with pins coming out - which are probably too big for the need and beyond my non-existant soldering capabilities lol
Like this, you just make a happy kaimana/UFB sandwich and top it with the ribbon.
For the mx cherry switches, are their any clear plungers for artwork?
What the proper way to disconnect these connectors? The 3 pins isnāt the problem itās the 4 pin which seems like there is super glue after plugging it in. I canāt seem to unplug it.
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They are tough at times but you wiggle it a bit back and forth or pry the sides carefully with a flathead screwdriver. I sometimes just yank them out and the connector holds 