Sorry, I don’t share my schematics and haven’t shared the pinouts for anything not pertinent to the basic function of the device. The arduino software is open source, but my hardware design is not nor is any of the details of the USB switching features.
WARNING, IF YOU ATTEMPT TO USE THE ISP HEADER TO FLASH ANYTHING TO EITHER CHIP ON THESE BOARDS YOU VOID THE WARRANTY. I DO NOT CONDONE DOING THIS, NOR WILL I HELP YOU GET IT BACK TO STOCK. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
JP2 and JP3 in the following order:
VCC, GND, RST, MOSI, SCK, MISO
JP3 is the Leonardo Chip I THINK I don’t have my original design file readily available at the time of this post.
@“Jasen Hicks” i quite realize this and am well familiar with the pins required for ICSP programming
i’m particularly interested in where you break out the pins for the 32u4, not the 328p. it seems that my friend who i installed it for has somehow managed to make it NOT show up as a COM port anymore (bricked arduino by serial overload)
this is relatively simple to fix by reloading the stock bootloader (or alternate bootloader) via programmer
unlike the 328p which shares MOSI, MISO and SCK with other ‘exposed’ pins, the 32u4 does not.
it’s all on PortB of the 32u4, yet the Khameleon does not expose these
[list]
[] SCK = PB1 (9/44)
[] MOSI = PB2 (10/44)
[] MISO = PB3 (11/44)
[] RST = RESET (13/44)
[/list]
thanks in advance, i’d like to get my friend up and running again.
I did tell you what the pin order was. I just forgot to mention its JP2 and JP3 on said board. I updated the post.
As far as giving me a lesson on where they are on the chip… was that was necessary? After all, I designed the board.
Again, to everyone reading this and getting curious:
WARNING, IF YOU ATTEMPT TO USE THE ISP HEADER TO FLASH ANYTHING TO EITHER CHIP ON THESE BOARDS YOU VOID THE WARRANTY. I DO NOT CONDONE DOING THIS, NOR WILL I HELP YOU GET IT BACK TO STOCK. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
If that button on the board is working to switch the LEDs between modes, then its not that chip that’s causing the issue. Plus, I’m not willing to put my software out in the world. Too many bad experiences with people taking advantage of things like that. Not saying you are one, just not worth the risk.
Just a quick Update on where my Joystick LED woes currently sit:
Had it all working, had to take it apart to actually install the joystick, stopped working. Left it as it was to go to my local tournament, and actually turns out that the hollow shaft I ordered from PAS isn’t the standard JLF length of shaft as I understood it to be, thus the spring has much more pressure on it and its so tight you can’t actually do diagonal inputs… I’m not sure if I can get a shorter spring here in the UK to compensate for this, or if I can get a longer hollow shaft. But until I can fix either of those I’m going to have to put in the original LEDless joystick configuration.
Regarding the LED setup, I originally had a terminal block strip, however the LED wires were far too fine for it to grip and apparently the electrical wholesalers near me don’t stock smaller terminal blocks and weren’t sure smaller existed. So suggested this single use permanent clips that “cut” into the wire (no idea what they’re called and can’t find them on their site). Which did the trick, but now I’ve installed them and its not working and I need to change the spring/shaft clearly single use isn’t going to work, so will need another non-permanent solution… Has anyone got any suggestions on another kind of pass through?
It would just be a compiled hex though wouldn’t it?
Kind of like sharing a static library with an api. you can’t really do anything to the source, but use it as intended.
Anyway, should you change your mind, it would be helpful and appreciated.
If not, can you at least provide the pinouts. probably something trivial in v-usb passthrough
here’s the deal
[list]
[] i like the product :love:
[] i’ve learnt to enjoy it :giggle:
[] the 32u4 is a fun chipset to play with :plus_one:
[] im looking to contribute but need your insight :glasses:
[] i totally know what you mean about people who steal designs, ideas, code, so crazy :amazed:
[] my github is 32teeth should you wish to add me as a contributor. :whistle:
[/list]
Kiniku, that doesn’t make a lot of sense on the shaft, like you may have received the wrong one, can you email a picture of the new shaft and the original JLF shaft next to each other to support@paradisearcadeshop.com so we can help resolve that.
It sound like you used scotchlocks? if you can post pics of your set up here or to support, @JRDIBBS and the rest of the PAS crew can help.
If I remember correctly the wires in the default RGB LED are a bit thinner than usual, another solution is to solder 22awg wire into the LED and then take advantage of the thicket gauge to connect to the terminal i think its barely enough to allow clearance through the joystick shaft. Another practical question is, re you REAAALLY going to remove your joystick that often? You can dissassemble the stick with the led threaded through even though its more work.
I’ll try and dismantle everything after work tonight and get pics posted. I’ve not checked the shafts against each other, but its the only reason I can think of for the sudden huge difference in stiffness in the joystick…
I googled Scotchlocks, they look somewhat similar, but not quite, shall get some pics of those too!
Once I get the spring/shaft/actuator etc sorted I doubt I’ll need to remove the joystick etc. But the problem while I’ve not got that sorted the next time I want to remove it all to fix it, I need to cut the wires out, if I do that too many more times I’ll not have long enough wires ;op
I was also thinking you could use screw in terminals like the ones that go into PCBs/breadboards. You could hot-glue them to the inside of the stick so its not floating around.
Hi, last time I posted the list of stuff I needed to put LEDs on my arcade stick. I’ve been kinda busy but with the help of a couple friends we tackled the project and now, almost done, we are stuck.
When I try to upload the stuff (code I suppose) from the Arduino 1.6.5 to the board it fails.
The error is “avrdude: butterfly_recv(): programmer is not responding”
From the very beginning we’ve followed every step from Fundando’s youtube channel tutorials and worked like a charm, all the LEDs works, they light up (stick and 8 buttons) and even do the “rainbow” idle “animation”. But we can’t configure them because of the error already mentioned.
All the stuff I used:
Hori Real Arcade Pro EX
PS360+ board
sanwa buttons
seimitsu LS-32 stick
Paradise Kaimana Mini LED Driver + 8 button kit
Neutrik NE8FDP RJ45 Panel Mount etherCon Connector
Rj45 to USB cable
If I’m missing something just let me know. We are pretty frustrated right now, we’d love some help and thanks in andvance