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Googled and site-searched the best I could, but didn’t turn up anything of value to my problem, so I guess i’ll throw it out there for some help.

I’ve had my TE Round 2 stick for about 4 years now, dual-modded with a TEasy Strike from PhreakMods, and it’s worked perfectly up until about a week ago. Starting with AE on the PC, i noticed that i wasn’t able to jump at very important points, or even finish basic Balrog combos with headbutt. I just chalked it up to me being new to AE pc and expected the issues to continue, thinking my PC just wasn’t catching the inputs from my stick. However, the issue persisted, online and off (training), so i said screw PC and moved back to the Xbox. However, the exact same issue was happening.

Apparently my TE Round 2 stick is not recognizing up-left or up-right (7 or 9) inputs 10% of the time. It seems like it still has the “negative edge” effect, so that when i go up-left (7) after holding down-left (1), rog just walks backwards. If I continue to hold 7, he continues walking backwards, but when i let go and return to 5, he jumps back. It doesn’t happen all the time, and it happens more with 7 than 9, but it seems like it’s really a problem going from 1 to 7 (or 3 - 9), and not as often from neutral to 7. Any ideas for a quick fix, or do i just have to order a new JLF?

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could be the switches going bad or the actuator might be getting a bit shredded… have you popped off the PCB and checked with multimeter? inspected the parts of the JLF?

You can just get a new JLF or order the individual parts from Paradise arcade… but unless you pinpoint the problem you may be having an issue elsewhere.

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Thanks for the response ed. I tried disconnecting and re-connecting the wires to the stick and PCB (after removing some of the glue). It seemed to fix the problem going from 3-9, but 7 still isn’t being recognized roughly 1 out of 4 tries. I don’t see any exposed wires where there’d be a signal dropping, and I’m not really sure what i’d be looking for if i were to actually take the JLF apart. I don’t have a multimeter to test connections. This might be a dumb question, but is there a way to somehow switch the configuration to see if it’s the stick or the circuit, i.e. make the 7 position on the stick be the 1 position in the software/pcb? At least then i could figure out if it’s the hardware on the stick or the connection/circuit on the pcb.

EDIT: I also checked out the stick in the Windows 7 Game Controllers application. 7 is being recognized more often than in the game itself, but it’s still pretty spotty, and slightly delayed when going from 1 to 7.

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So you’re talking about “7” being the direction that is having trouble being registered, but as far as the joystick, the hardware, and the game goes, 7 is just a combination of the 4 and 8 switches being pressed at the same time.

To clarify - the joystick only contains 4 switches. L/R/U/D. Diagonals are just combinations of two switch inputs being active at the same time.

Questions
Do you have issues with your up movements? Or are you only seeing issues when performing the diagonal? When you say “doesn’t register” when trying to hit a 7, what is reported as registered on the POV monitor in the configuration window? 4, 8, or nothing?

Something to else inspect would be your actuator (the black plastic at the bottom of the shaft) and the gate (plastic retainer on the bottom of the stick). Do you notice any damage, or material that may be interfering with movement?

In the end, the best way to tell is just to hook up to the PC and watch the POV indicator while silently listening for the joystick to click. And don’t test for diagonals, test the cardinals so that you are accurately corresponding your testing to hardware components. If it is a switch issue you’ll notice the cardinal failing to register when you hear the click.

If the register issue only happens with diagonals, the biggest suspicion I’d have is that something strange has happened with your gate (maybe popped off the clips?) or actuator damage.