I wonder if the response on the buttons are more reactive with this mod?
The response depends on the microswitch that you use; see my info on Switches in the original post. You have to be careful not to use too light of a switch or the button will go down and not come up on its own.
I’d say it’s more about feel than responsiveness. Standard Sanwas are pretty responsive.
Yea I started the mod and tested the buttons an they feel amazing! I appreciate it RoboKrikit!
I approve the use of 20g Zippy microswitches, those are the same switches that came installed on the old Megadrive Arcade Power stick controllers (only the japanese version) those feel great on the joystick but I never tried them on buttons.
Do you believe we can use the same trick to remove the rivet that keeps the microswitch closed ? (Omron V10,V15 or Saia XG as examples…)
I’m going to be posting soon a version of this mod for PS-14-GN buttons. If you didn’t know, you can’t simply plug them in because Seimitsu decided to put in a completely different switch from the snap ins. Pricks!
I am really interested in this mod! I like the idea of having a Japanese styled button with an American feel.
Here are my biggest hurdles:
- Will these buttons fit in a Hori VLX? I currently use OBSN -30 RG buttons in my VLX so I think they will fit.
- I don’t like the .187 quick connect terminal size since Hori VLX uses .110 size.
- This mod could get pricey after experimenting with different microswitches and you may ultimately decide that this mod isn’t for you…

I am really interested in this mod! I like the idea of having a Japanese styled button with an American feel.
Here are my biggest hurdles:
- Will these buttons fit in a Hori VLX? I currently use OBSN -30 RG buttons in my VLX so I think they will fit.
- I don’t like the .187 quick connect terminal size since Hori VLX uses .110 size.
- This mod could get pricey after experimenting with different microswitches and you may ultimately decide that this mod isn’t for you…
1&3 - Yeppers, it is a very expensive mod and for the PS-14-GN ridiculously complicated more than it needs to be. I’m thinking about designing my own micro harness and kick starting it. The cost of molds for plastic isn’t cheap, so it’s not something I could do on my own. Only question is, would there be enough interest for such a thing?
One question though, why don’t you like .187 QD? They aren’t all that different, functionally.

One question though, why don’t you like .187 QD? They aren’t all that different, functionally.
Oh, nothing wrong with .187 QD’s. I was just thinking I would have to cut off the .110 QD’s on the stock wire harness of the VLX and crimp on .187 QD’s. I really don’t want to do that. I could always use a custom wire harness for this mod and preserve the stock harness…
You don’t necessarily need to do that… If you want to leave the original wiring intact you could rig up small jumper wires with Male .110 QDs on one side, and female .187 QDs on the other.
More work in my opinion but if you don’t want to cut the original qds it’d work…

You don’t necessarily need to do that… If you want to leave the original wiring intact you could rig up small jumper wires with Male .110 QDs on one side, and female .187 QDs on the other.
More work in my opinion but if you don’t want to cut the original qds it’d work…
Great idea! I may try that. Thanks PaperTigre
Actually, at one point I used .110 QD’s on the side like RoboKrikit did and it was fine. I played like that for about 4 months.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/GillResurrection2.png
So after some time, I finally got my parts in to do this mod. I’ll update with my impressions once I drill out the rivets.
I had Gummo wire me up a VLX wire harness with .187 quick connects. (Thanks Gummo!) Also got some D44X Cherry micros.
Looking at getting some KWJ cherries as well.

I actually liked the stock Omron V10 that’s in the harness. I had slightly weighted buttons though, about 5 grams.
I think that the stocks were nice for music games and STGs. Too heavy for FGs imo, but then again thats where the cherrys come in play.
It’s only a 25 gf difference. I actually prefer the faster snap back to neutral from the extra tension. I guess I just have strong fingers, all these not-sensitive-enough-wusses yo.
Finally finished the cherry switch mod. Removing the rivets in the stock switches wasn’t that tough and only took me about 25 minutes for a set of 8. If it weren’t for cost, I would recommend this mod to everyone who wants a different feeling OBSF-30 with a hint of clicky.
My cost were:
$30 VLX wire harness fitted with .187 quick connects
$40 for set of 8 OBM-S-1 microswitch assemblies (Including overseas shipping)
$16 for 8 cherry D44x microswitches
So, $86 for this mod and that doesn’t include the OBSF-30 button shells. But wow do these buttons feel nice! I am definitely keeping these in my main stick though I usually use Sanwa RG’s. I have tested these for about 5 hours now on fighters and shmup’s. They are just as responsive as stock OBSF-30’s but I feel that the button rebounds a bit quicker with the cherries. They are fun to use in shooters when you are repeatedly pressing the button. They still have a nice crisp snap to them when you input combos. I ended up keeping an Omron V-10-1A4 microswitch in the start button. The stock omrons feel nice as well but just a touch too much force required to active on the main play buttons for my taste. I hope others try this mod as well! I want to thank Gummo for helping me with the VLX .187 QD wire harness. And thank you to Robokrikit and everyone on this thread!


Yeah it’s an extremely cost prohibitive mod. They feel nice but the cost is too high.