For now just to learn more about how to make a DIY fightstick and Super Guns. But to illustrate an example, a Super Gun to run ST, KOF 98 - both JAMMA - , UMK3, KI - non-JAMMA, I think - connected at the same time in four CRT TVs.
To me I just need a JAMMA harness and other non-JAMMA, USB without DB-15 adapter to fightsticks and CRT TVs connectors - maybe some modern connectors to current displays.
I going to ask if you already have these boards or not?
From my understanding Street Fighter, Mortal Kombat and Killer instinct is all Jamma Plus.
Jamma plus is pretty much you have a 2nd smaller harness called a kick harness, and its different for various systems.
I do ask what version of Street Fighter and What system is Street Fighter is on, Capcom made several arcade systems, the CPS, CPS2, CPS3 and capcon made games for the Naomi and and taito type x2.
Out of all those systems only the Naomi isn’t Jamma (it cam be made into Jamma with a Jamma I/O board)
Now KoF 98, that comes on a MVS game cartage, you have to get a SNK NEO GEO board for the cart, not all NEO GEO boards are Jamma.
They till use a Jamma connector but some of the pins are different, The addtion of a 4th button on the Jamma harness, select button on multi slot machines and the audio could be wired diffrent depending on the NEO GEO board.
If I am right this can all be done with 1 Jamma connector,
You can use a Fully Loaded JAMMA Harness on any JAMMA Board. Its fine. Button 4 and 5 won’t do anything on a JAMMA Board that requires a kick harness for the additional buttons (they take buttons 4,5,6 from the aux headers) and it wont affect it negatively. That means you can use a fully loaded harness and put a switch in it to shift between JAMMA and MVS. The main difference between JAMMA and MVS that will cause damage to something is the speaker outputs. MVS uses Pin L and 10 as speaker L and R and then ties the speaker to ground vice a negative lead on the harness like JAMMA. I use a 4PDT switch in my SuperGuns to shift between them as needed. Everything else on the JAMMA/MVS harness is perfectly lined up (except Service on MVS its in a non used part on JAMMA, again not a big deal if you hook it up to the same service button) so you can easily make a SG that works on both systems with ease.
Additionally, many JVS I/O boards use button 4 and 5 on the JAMMA Harness. Naomi is one of them. You can use the JAMMA Harness wired up properly in a SuperGun with a CAPCOM I/O and use it on a Naomi or X2 fine. I do it with my MK48 Mod 0 all the time.
Thank you for the additional Info.
By the way, @free_man Jasen Hicks is who I got my Super Gun from. He shipped the case and parts to me and I wired it up to my own specifications.
With the announcement of the old Capcom FG ported to Nesica, they will be ported like an emulator or will be PCBs with WAN features to connect with others cabs?
@free_man - It will be like a streaming/steam type setup. NESiCA x Live system runs on the Taito X2, X-Zero, X3 hardware which is a Windows XP embedded PC and it allows download direct from the Taito Servers. Essentially, they are emulating the old school hardware like some folks do with MAME… except in a official way 
Thanks, because I was going to ask an another occasion about the possibility of network play between PCB-based games, and this announcement reminded me that question.
Finally got my supergun put together for CPS3. I don’t have a CRT available until the weekend so I was wondering if there are video problems using an HDTV?
I"m using a JROK encoder with sync cleaner and my video comes out “jittery” and shaky when I have JoJo’s Venture running on an HDTV via composite. Is this shaking picture an indicator that something isn’t right or is this common when using a suprgun on HDTV? I plan on cleaning my contacts on the game cartridge and CPS3 with rubbing alcohol later today to see if that helps any.
Many HDTVs, though featuring a Composite Video jack, suck at handling non-HD signals. For an A/B comparison, hook up some other Composite Video device and see how the TV handles that. That should tell you something. Also, the sync frequency could be a bit off on the Capcom hardware (no fault of your setup) and the TV could be sensitive to this. I’ve tried running CPS2 with an upscaler that works fine with original Playstation but produces funky scrolling crap on CPS2.
-ud
I’ve hooked up my Supergun (JROK and sync cleaner) through component to my HDTV once.
Both CPS2 and MVS was jittery and flickery as hell. Interestingly (but not surprisingly) enough, I could get a pretty nice picture if I had my TV apply some post-processing image correction things, but then there would be enough lag between the controls and the display that the games were not really playable.
I think the jittery and flickery has to do with the very low resolution of 240p, and/or that the Analog to Digital Converter expecting a interlaced 480i image.
This has alot to do with how the TV was built and what input the TV is expecting.
I heard some of the newer HD TVs now will not display a 240p image at all, as it expecting at minimum a 480i image.
For older all analog CRT screens, this is not an issue For a CRT screen they treat a 240p image as a 480i image (just by displaying each line twice, once for each scan), but for HDTVs that are only expect signals from a particular range could be picky.
> Both CPS2 and MVS was jittery and flickery as hell.
I’ve had some issues in the past where the +5 line wasn’t quite high enough, and that caused problems. YMMV.
That’s good to know for reference.
In my case, however, both the CPS2 and MVS looked perfectly fine on a CRT, but not on the HDTV (except when TV-settings enabled additional image processing), so I just chalked it up to the semi-incompatibility with HDTVs.
The only Non-HD analog signals my HDTV does not butcher is the VGA input and Component video.
I run my MVS board though a XRGB 2 Plus and use a separate Scan line generator
The Scan Line Generator is hidden in my modified VGA KVM switch Box
Its actually a old style manual KVM switch that used Din 5 connectors for the older AT keyboards.
There no real electronics inside, just a huge rotating switch.
What I did was, I got some Din 5 plugs and wired some audio connectors to the Din 5 connector
So both VGA and Audio gets channeled and switches though.
Dude, I just use a stock Sony CRT and a Dreamcast. I need to get on you guy’s level of videophilia.
I’m in the process of making two superguns for myself, a consolized CPS2 and a standard supergun. Other than that, I own a hand full of cabinets and have experience with all kinds of solutions, hacks and work arounds for them.
The consolizations/superguns will be using a Sony CXA2075 encoder. Svid, composite and RGB, I know but honestly, if you’re playing on an HDTV, you’ll be using a scaled of some type. I’m prototyping it now, but I plan on designing a drop in PCB. Makes it easier for people to build their own.
The more important part is, what video format your using with that Sony CRT and Dreamcast.
Just to followup from my previous post, the flickering is definitely gone now that I moved from a flatscreen hdtv, to a sony crt made in 2002. There is some flickering when I use composite cables but, S-Video cable creates a great looking picture for my cps3 setup.
If you can help it avoid composite AV and RF as much as possible.
I’m purchasing a cab with a Chinese jamma. Anyone know how difficult it is to connect to a jpac? Is it just a case of snipping and connecting pins 26 and 27 to the jpac or will there be work altering the ground?
Many thanks.