actually in the middle of writing the companion to the vid… here is a snippet:
Fightstick painting
After years of painting I wanted to put together something for the fighting game community. More often than not, I see good sticks that could have been GREAT if a few extra steps were taken in the process. This guide and accompanying video will cover the basics, materials you will need, and some pointers and tips that are case painting specific.
The subject covered will be:
- Materials
- Prep and work area
- Primer
- Paint
- Clearcoat
- Polishing/finishing
When you see this symbol, pay particularly close attention as it will contain something very important and relevant to the step at hand.
**Materials: **
So you have a nice unfinished case from a custom builder, or perhaps you have made one of your own and you want to paint it. May you have a case that’s seen better days and want to refinish it. First thing you need to do is plan out how you want it to look. Before you just start grabbing random cans of paint off the shelves, there are a few things to consider.
Not all paints are the same and many may not be compatible. A general rule of thumb is to use the same manufacturer for your primer and paints. Your clearcoat doesn’t matter as much BUT do read the cans and make sure that there isn’t a particular type it won’t work with. My personal preference is to use Rustoleum brands. They may not have the colors you may be looking for so don’t rule out heading to your local automotive store for more color choices to include some specialty paints like Mirage Color changing paint.
Primer:
First things first though… you will want a primer. Generally there are 3 basic colors. Black, white, and gray. If you are painting dark colors, stick with black or gray, if you are doing lighter colors then use white. If you are using a combination of contrasting colors than use gray. Read the can and make sure that you can sand it. Generally 1-2 cans will cover a case well.
Color:
Once you have your primer color picked out, then get your colors. The cap color is a basic idea what it will look like but don’t expect it to be exact. At places like Loews they usually have a small testing area that you can shoot a small spot on and see how it looks. I will pick up at least 2 cans of color to ensure the case gets a good uniform coat.
Clearcoat:
For the clearcoat, I strictly use rustoleum Crystal Clear Gloss Enamel. After trial and error this is my go-to because it sprays well, is resistant to running, provides a great hard finish and looks amazing. If you are first starting out, get 3 cans in case you need to redo something. With experience 1-2 cans is all you would need.
At this point, you should have about 6-8 cans of spray and spent about $40. Painting is not cheap!
Sandpaper:
Sandpaper is KEY to a proper finish. You should pick up the following grits at least: 220 (for the bare wood, 320 (for LIGHT sanding in between coats if needed) and for the finish/clearcoat: 1000, 2000, and 3000 grits. You may not be able to find the high grits at a normal home improvement store. Any chain auto store should have them though.
Sanding Block:
I usually get a sanding sponge block (320) that I also use as my sanding block. If you do this make sure the low grit doesn’t get exposed when you are doing your finish or it WILL scratch and set you back. You can buy the rubber ones and not have to worry about this as well.
Meguiars Polishing Compound
After you are all done sanding you will need this to polish your clearcoat. This may be the last step and look good enough for you, if you see fine swirls in the clear then grab some Meguiars Ultimate Polish for a perfect finish.
Other Materials:
Soft microfiber towels, paper towels, facemask, rubber gloves (optional), painters masking tape.
