Which reminds me, I need to call the local GS I pre-ordered it at to see if they’re doing a midnight launch. From what I remember, each store has to have a minimum of 50 to qualify for a midnight launch.
As soon as I heard him say “square gate” in the clip my heart just broke.
American style stick players get no love.
Just found out the GS I pre-ordered it at (largest store in Texas or the nation; forgot which one) is doing a midnight launch along with a tournament ($25 gift card as the grand prize), costume contest (my wife was laughing her ass off when I told her, haha!) & a local comic bookstore will be there selling stuff. FWIW, the employee told me on the phone that they only had 1 regular & 2 collectors edition strategy guides remaining for pre-order even though I didn’t ask him about the guides.
I hope someone opens up the case that night because I’ll just be staring at the retail box until sometime post pics & info on the internals. At this rate, it’s either going to be reps or Seimitsu & I highly doubt it’s the latter. Hopefully, I can put rolls of pennies in the corners if it’s too lightweight.
I always use strips of self-adhesive wheel balancing weights - a lot more convenient…
EDIT: Link no longer necessary. Kaihong is posting in this thread as well now.
Injustice Fight Stick
The build quality is amazing. The case itself is on par with Madcatz if not better. The side bezel is rubberized and feels like the surface of the first generation Deathadder mouse from Razer. The plexi is durable however any scratches or differences in the surface will glow from the LED lighting therefor dried sweat, scratches and bumps will glow on the surface including the edges of the plexi and the screw holes will glow. The overall weight of the stick very very light. It is half the weight of the Madcatz SE. You have a detachable cable. The bottom is rubberized.
http://i.imgur.com/bLmYRLJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CeooluQ.jpg
I changed the bat top to a spare ball top and washer. Both fit on the stock stick.
http://i.imgur.com/lRetj0q.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nKL78So.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/04zWibU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nlDwBj2.jpg
The buttons feel like Sanwa but they squeak sometimes when the side of plunger rubs against the rim of the button.
http://i.imgur.com/nGj1zS6.jpg
You cannot access the stick from the bottom panel, only the buttons can be accessed. The top panel requires a hex key for the screws.
http://i.imgur.com/VKuKhUf.jpg
The bottom panel has walls to keep cables organized and perhaps to keep dust out.
http://i.imgur.com/XwC0OYX.jpg
The stick is square gate and has is similar to that of the JLF in respect to its design, however, it is VERY loose. The throw and engage distance is almost twice that of the Sanwa JLF.
http://i.imgur.com/nyJ2F2Y.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mzskAsf.jpg
Buttons are individually lit and has a cable going to each one.
http://i.imgur.com/BmZ5OfA.jpg
So I took apart the stick.
The one that is green is stock from the Injustice fight stick. It looks just like one from my Sanwa JLF? Even says Omron on it. Same size and pin and everything… it’s just green.
http://i.imgur.com/NYfo3ZC.jpg
The mounts are nearly identical as well…
Below is Sanwa
http://i.imgur.com/ZofPzQT.jpg
Below is what’s in the Injustice fight stick
http://i.imgur.com/ZDYji2P.jpg
So I got curious…
Sanwa switches and gate were swapped into it. I booted up the game and it worked FLAWLESSLY.
http://i.imgur.com/DMMHWbu.jpg
Also, the injustice gate fit perfectly into the sanwa stick
http://i.imgur.com/uVXKDAc.jpg
HOWEVER, something didn’t feel quite right after I did that… So I took a pen and drew circles to confirm something
http://i.imgur.com/gVHDVbL.jpg
The entire case is plastic. In fact it is basically all rubberized outside. The sides/surroundings of case can be removed much like the TE stick. Perhaps those that wish to have wooden sides can mod it like so. To do so, I believe the screws are inside the case if accessed from the bottom and they would be along the side walls. The stock stick is very poor after playing all night. The spring is too loose and that gives the impression of a large distance (throw/engage). It felt less large when I dropped the battop for a ball top. When you press the stick downwards into the body of the case and then move the stick slowly, it makes a squeaking noise as it grinds itself away. My guess is that there is no lubrication at all as it feels exactly like a ball joint from Lego/K’nex. The buttons do a bit better in terms of quality. However, for quality, they are no better than those of Madcatz SE stock buttons as they stick to the bottom sometimes, stick to the sides sometimes. In general they press down well (somewhere between sanwa and seimitsu buttons in terms of feeling) but the problem lies in how the button comes back up.
Confirming that the art is printed under the plexi.
http://i.imgur.com/kyuqRRY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mi21Z7p.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ejtMLDJ.jpg
Pressing.
http://i.imgur.com/PO2XYPV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/q50yneA.jpg
Plunger.
http://i.imgur.com/cjtffhr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/esmYdeF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8sEA5Fg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6It3e2s.jpg
The LED boards are held down by two clips on bottom of the button. You can see the clear ticks/taps are north and south of the button rim just beside the holes on the wall. The portion of PCB that exist under these clips is very minimal therefore taking out these LED boards would be a delicate process. My attempts almost rendered this button broken. Also, in order to remove the microswitch you must remove the LED boards first. Since I couldn’t get the boards out by hand (no tools on me other than a screw driver) I was able to compare the microswitches to Sanwa ones. However I do suspect that the microswitches are interchangeable.
http://i.imgur.com/6L0p7fr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R9QjeZE.jpg
No compartments for storage at all. Detachable cord is the USB to USB mini B.
USB mini B goes into the stick.
http://www.usbcable.com/94-3996.jpg
The art is paper under the plexi. Removing the snap in buttons has resulted in accidentally damaging the art where the clips existed. I will open the top panel after I find a hex key of proper size. It is too small from my standard set of tools I will have to buy a micro set of hex keys probably used for RC car parts.
Pulse is not working for me at all. It functions the same as OFF at the moment.
Nice Kaihong! Probably, won’t have time to edit the first post until tonight. I’m disappointed components aren’t Sanwa/Seimitsu but sounds like the button microswitches can be switched to Sanwa’s.
No rush 
I’m going out now to grab some hex keys so I can confirm what size screws and also add pictures of top panel removal. I’m going to swap the stick out as well and include comments on the process. Maybe it has mounts for LS-32s?
You, sir, are the man.
I’m back. I have some bad news and some good news. Bad news is, someone almost broke into my car to steal my fight stick while I was out buying some tools. The good news is, I still have it.
So I went out and bought this.
And it was the third smallest one in that set. (5/64 size?)
The plexi glass screws. I would love to replace these so I could use a flat head instead.
http://i.imgur.com/zRcTCKz.jpg
Plexi is out. Artwork is matte high grade poster card-like.
http://i.imgur.com/UWjnNcO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/M1m3Qxt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VNgVYPJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TcrPp3V.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QN7bjUf.jpg
The stick mounting plate. Sorry guys I can’t get my LS-32-01 in there.
http://i.imgur.com/BmGhrlg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fVA4lwg.jpg
Inside of the case. No buttons/No stick
http://i.imgur.com/Gi629TL.jpg
So from here on I begin an experiment. My goal is to investigate the stock stick and mod it so it feels better.
Stock stick:
http://i.imgur.com/5UuVR9X.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zQYcKUH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eNhnEIB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GNlbIqU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9aa588b.jpg
The stick LEDs
The clip is significantly smaller than what is on the Sanwa JLF. You can’t fit anything into the hole to pry it out. I had to use pliers and yank it but that bent the C-clip and damaged it. Material is weaker than the C-clip on the JLF
http://i.imgur.com/AxSJc7k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qLRsbTP.jpg
There is lubrication. Yet it still feels like a lego ball joint.
http://i.imgur.com/tsZP7Eq.jpg
Comparison
http://i.imgur.com/gD29Qmo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/heKOzZM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UJAbYYd.jpg
Out of curiousity. Original Sanwa JLF plate DOES NOT fit.
http://i.imgur.com/3lI9yJE.jpg
It doesn’t really fit… Notice the holes do not line up.
The microswitches from stock injustice stick do not fit into sanwa stick. PCB is not right shape and gets in the way.
http://i.imgur.com/Paqhvqh.jpg
I’m going to make a frankenstein. Everything is Sawna… everything. Only thing that isn’t is the mounting plate and the black plastic directly under the plate (for the LEDs)
http://i.imgur.com/BoSMhI7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4FrySRr.jpg
Done!
so basically, this production was outsourced to qanba?
Basically.
I’m anxious to see how hard it will be to replace the buttons with OBSC-30’s. It would be a somewhat simple task to take a dremel to the bottom of an OBSC, but how would you get the LED PCB out of the stock button without damaging it?
Fishing it out with a toothpick maybe?
How odd. If that was the case, why use PDP as a middleman?
Kaihong, as far as the frankenstick is concerned, how does it feel/control? Would you recommend such a mod or are the results not worth the price of the parts? I hope they are cause it seems like it may be the only easy solution due to the need to preserve the LEDs’ PCB.
Also, any ideas on replacing those buttons or are those going to need the Frankentreatment as well? Hopefully they’ll be much better with just sanwa switches placed inside (if that’s as easy a switch as I hope it is).
Lastly, sorry some jerk tried to break into your car. Some people really really suck.
It is worth it. It feels exactly like my Sanwa stick and yet it keeps the fancy LEDs. If possible, I would recommend people buy the JLF without the metal mounting plate to save money.
I am trying to replace the button microswitches but for now my conclusion holds that there is no way to swap between sanwa and these qanba buttons. However, it may be possible to keep the button rim + LED inserts. Therefore the plunger and microswitch MUST be matching so I’ll try to swap sanwa’s into it (assuming I can somehow get the LED inserts removed without damaging)
Problem lies in the lack of flexibility the tabs have. They are keeping the inserts anchored in there. I’m taking a pair of pliers trying to bend them but I risk slipping and scratching the board.
UPDATE:
http://i.imgur.com/kHvJN0d.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZS4r3r5.jpg
I’m still struggling to remove the inserts.
UPDATE 2:
It is finally out. There is a trick to it. You need two set of hands and several pliers. One plier for each of the tabs keeping the inserts anchored.
http://i.imgur.com/6caY25N.jpg
However… This does not work
http://i.imgur.com/v1PXCFX.jpg
But the original plunger does work
http://i.imgur.com/jft5tbX.jpg
Proof:
Glad the Frankenbutton was a success. How’s it feel compared to an all-sanwa button? Does the better switch help with the stickiness you mentioned in the other thread?
Also, thanks for the helpful information. I’m getting the stick this Tuesday and am hoping to order parts so that I can get them by the end of next week. Having to pay for switches and a JLF isn’t too bad (i’m rationalizing) as long as the end result is something I can be happy with.
It’s too bad that this stick isn’t great stock, but it certainly looks uniquely cool enough to be worth a small mod.
How do we know Qanba was involved? Is the only thing that’s Qanba the buttons or am I missing something?
The Fake JLF-Clone Joystick is labeled as Qanba as well.
Thanks for the early Look kaihong, I going to end up Modding 2 of these, one for myself and one for a friend.
The difference is night and day. I’m going to use this as my main stick since now it feels like warm butter. The buttons feel just like Sanwa tho the added plunger weight (since it’s two parts) makes them feel only slightly heavier and chunkier on press. That being said it is more Sanwa now than seimitsu in terms of feeling. Even the sensitivity is on par with Sanwa, where the slightest press will activate it. The stick is amazing, something to do with the previous lube added to how smooth is is now. I would argue that I prefer this over stock Sawna JLF. Note that in the end, I opted out the Sanwa square gate for the qanba square gate just because the circle I drew with it was smaller and I like it tighter. I also have the LS 33 + JLF dual spring mod going on too, so even more tighter.
Complaints about the stick.
Weight: Too light. for traveling this will be amazing but since it’s half the weight of a Madcatz SE but the size of the TE it only throws me off. Something I’ll get use to.
Lap play only?: The bottom rubber/foam padding keeps this featherweight on my lap. Thought it doesn’t stick to wooden surfaces as well. This rubber/foam bottom padding clearly made for lap play.
Construction: Does not feel cheap at all. That being said, however, the stick sounds and feels hallow and empty. It is partly due to all synthetic materials. Think of it as, “the best plastic can do”. It is nothing like wood or all heavy acrylic.
BIGGEST PROBLEM: Excuse my language but the worst thing ever was the damn vertical walls they added onto the back panel. After I have taken out the cables and zipped tied them back into a bunch they STILL get in the way when placing this panel back on. It bulges upwards and it feels like I’m trying to shut a suitcase full of clothing for a vacation. If i can get a plexi replacement I would do it in a heartbeat. Hell even cutting these walls away would make the stick so much easier to mod… it simply restricts space.
Thanks for all your work.
Quick question to confirm what I’m understanding. To get this stick to feel like “warm butter” we simple just need to drop in a “SANWA JLF-TP-8Y-SK JOYSTICK” without a plate and were good to go? The buttons are decent enough?