LED lighting is NOT cheap unless you’re doing a simple on/off operation – which is what I have with the Agetec Dreamcast Arcade Stick VMU slot… but that’s not what most of you want.
You want complicated lighting patterns or at least 30mm button switching on/off when you hit those buttons. That’s never been cheap or particularly easy to implement. That’s at least $80, probably more like over $100 worth of parts you have to buy – not even including programming the PCB’s which I’m sure will take a while even with the simplest to set up PCB controllers on the market.
It’s a shame that the Injustice joystick has had its share of problems but I can’t recall that any non-Japanese origin joystick hasn’t had issues since the Mad Catz Round 1 TE joysticks hit in 2009. Those had basic PCB reliability issues that cursed the line until the revised PCB’s finally hit with the first round of TE-S joysticks about a year, year-and-a-half later. Even Hori has had build issues with the HRAP V3/VX line and its share of PCB problems with the Hori Fighting Edge (XBox 360 version at least; the 360 joystick models seem to get harder with PCB issues for both Hori and Mad Catz).
So… the IGAU joystick lighting effect only works for ONE fighting game??? Wow… Makes me feel better about my Hori PS2 Flight Stick 2, then. At least that works with the three Ace Combat games released for the PS2! (Actually, it can work with XP-based flight games, too. Somebody managed to hack the joystick bundle and developed a driver for Windows XP at least…)
The situation might be different on the ps3 side - i can’t understand why it would work with one rumble and not another though. Did they design lighting to only go off at a certain input level for the rumble (just browsing the xinput api, you give it a motor speed), and that happened to be higher than any other fighting game? That would make sense w/r/t the massage app, since that thing is probably going full tilt on the rumble at times. So stupid.
You can switch on/off by having the LED at the same voltage as the console, wiring its ground to the button signal, it will turn on whenever you press the button… not hard nor expensive just saying
Here’s something no one’s answered: Can you use it on the pc? was considering getting it but only if i could use it on emu’s, plus i’d rather just drop less than 100$ than spend 180+ on an eight arc
This info if great guys, keep going. I’m about to mod mine with sanwa JLF stick and buttons + art with the hope that I can keep the led’s as well. How hard is it to cut the buttons???
Depends if you using a Dremel or Hobby Knife, and how skilled you are. Key is taking your time.
Got a Dremel? Good. Got a small drill bit that fits? Awesome.
Drill holes in the corners of the area you want to cut first. Then make your cut from one hole to another.
Using a dremel with a drill but is your best option, cut wheel or grinder should be used only if you don’t have a drill bit.
You can clean up any burrs or small chunks with a file or a sharp knife.
Cutting the button with JUST a Hobby Knife, like a Xacto knife is used only if you can’t use a dremel, you need spare blade and alot of time and patience.
But a Hobby Knife is good at the finishing work around each cut.
Gamestop’s having a $10 off sale on all versions of Injustice (including the Battle Edition) from 5/8th - 5/14th. Use code, “SAVER” for free value shipping. Not sure about you guys/gals but there was only one location around me that had it in-stock as of today.
I need to get around to finishing my Injustice stick mod. All the major work is done. I just need to make some changes to keep the tournament lock then I can close the thing up.
Note if you going for a PCB replacement, you will need a dremel.
Just an FYI. If you use the injustice square gate and plan on using toodles sparkce you will need to dremel out the bottom right hand corner of the gate. See my blurry pics. You need to do this because the potentiometer is in the way and the gate wont click in. The easiest way I found to do this was find an edge of a counter or something and use the tool I show in the picture and hold your hand firm then just move the gate into the dremel. You need to put the tool right below the spot where the gate locks on the micro-switch cover and dremel slightly past where you see the imprint of the circle on the gate. (see pics)
And yes that’s a cast iron skillet in the back ground. I needed contrast so the stupid camera would focus.
First off, awesome compilation of modding work. I’ve been lurking this thread for the past two weeks and I’ve decided to try and do a sanwa conversion to my stick. Ditching the LEDs. Just want a stick that feels similar to a SF TE. So I’ve ordered 30mm buttons and next I’m buying a JLF. Any suggestions on which will be easiet to install?
installing it will be fairly simple. you’ll need to remove the bottom panel and hold the stick shaft with a Philips while you unscrew the bat top from the shaft.
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