I Want to Mod My Hitbox (Help Plz)

[LouieBH]

oh lol that pic is the adruino thing still dont fully understand what it does but it sounds useful lol. I kinda hope to make this the final project that is so good it never needs to be redone, anything you recommend i should read before i get started on this project? Also your projects sound awesome im interested to see what you come up with!

[GLORYBE26OD]

Everything you need to for reseach is here on SRK. Check out the hitbox thread, the SOCD thread, stickless thread, and there are others, there is so much. Bet you after you build one you will want to build another. At least for back up. After you build the first one you will see little things you will want to change so it will keep evolving. At least mine do. Button layout, button size, you’ll see.

[LouieBH]

ooh i own 2 hitboxes already, one custom i bought 2nd hand and an official so i get what you mean ill defo read em up now thanks for the help!

EDIT: cant seem to find the socd thread could you link it to me?

[Rufus]

1]Which device do you put this in, and how?
2]Does this give you Asynchronous last command entry for up and down?
-example: Holding U, tap and release D once gives you u, then down, then u
3]Does it also give you Left + Right = Neutral in all situations?

Assuming the questions are about the circuit I posted:

1. The circuit should work with any common ground device. It would be between the direction controls and the PCB (like the toodles SOCD cleaner).
2. Effectively. There’s two lines in, and two lines out, so you could use it for left and right or up and down, or if you’re feeling wierd, left and down…
3. It only handle two lines. L/R and U/D are handled independently.

[Deathfist]

Assuming the questions are about the circuit I posted:

1. The circuit should work with any common ground device. It would be between the direction controls and the PCB (like the toodles SOCD cleaner).
2. Effectively. There’s two lines in, and two lines out, so you could use it for left and right or up and down, or if you’re feeling wierd, left and down…
3. It only handle two lines. L/R and U/D are handled independently.

I was actually looking for both what you device you put the NAND circuit in, and what device you put these software lines in. Thank you for your half of the answers I was seeking.

[Rufus]

The code is for an arduino, which you’d put into a stick along with the usual PCBs. Code for other microcontrollers will vary.

[Plagman]

Hi guys,

If you have a HitBox or any Cthulhu-based custom fightstick, you can use these resources I put together to quickly and easily mod the SOCD behavior you’re after into them:

Video guide:
[media=youtube]IMHT50OgvOQ[/media]

Text guide, with links to resources:
http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/HOWTO.txt

Firmware:
http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/firmware_uno.c

Picture guide:

http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd.png

Hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks!

[liero116]

Hi guys,

If you have a HitBox or any Cthulhu-based custom fightstick, you can use these resources I put together to quickly and easily mod the SOCD behavior you’re after into them:

Video guide:
[media=youtube]IMHT50OgvOQ[/media]

Text guide, with links to resources:
http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/HOWTO.txt

Firmware:
http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/firmware_uno.c

Picture guide:

Hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks!

This is pretty amazing and almost exactly what im looking for. One quick question:

I have a PS360+ pcb instead of the cthulu one you mentioned. I imagine this would still work with my pcb correct?

[Plagman]

Glad it helps; the button interposition should be exactly the same, you just need to find the right pins on the PS360 for Left, Right, Select. You also need to find power and ground. Looking at this document you have VCC and GND pins available, but you might need to solder since they don’t seem to be available in the upper row of screws:

http://beckfolio.com/focusattack/akishop/docs/PS360HardwareOverview.pdf

Generally nothing I describe is dependent on the PCB used, so it should really work everywhere as long as you’re careful to grab a nice regulated 5V supply and hook up the grounds together.

[Plagman]

You might also be able to skip this entirely if you manage to contact Akishop and get the source code for their firmware; see this post for more details:

Hit Box - We so S Tier1!

Plagman, looking at the akishop site, it says “OSS (Open Source Software) for best possible community support (upgradable through USB). Date pending (more info soon).” I guess I’ll wait for them to release the info and just flash it with Async L+R SOCD

[liero116]

Good to know its still possible. I also just sent Akishop an email. Hopefully something comes from that to make things a bit easier.

I’m building another hitbox soon though that’ll use a cthulu board so I’m sure I’ll be taking advantage of your method. Thanks again!

[rumble1212]

I know this is 3 years old but any update if akishop did include it?

[Noryia]

Version 1.3 of the firmware adds SOCD.

[Darksakul]

Obligatory

Why don’t people use the Absolute Question and Answer Thread?

Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

Rebooting the thread since the last one was invaded by bots on the Unknown account. Obligatory link to the old thread. Please check this thread for a comprehensive list of quality posts. Intro by Trouble Brewing (with some additional edits by d3v). Welcome to the world of arcade sticks! Many fighting game fans, both casual and competitive, decide at some point to ditch the pad for an arcade stick. At one time, the options for American consumers were very limited, but following the release o…

[rumble1212]

Did anyone who installed the Arduino into their fightstick get any input lag after?

[Darksakul]

Did anyone who installed the Arduino into their fightstick get any input lag after?

It will depend on your coding

[Vicko]

no lag

also I would like to point out that this setup makes the inputs active high, so in a dual mod setup this will need to be inverted
@Gummo had to recode one on the fly at SCR.

[rumble1212]

no lag

also I would like to point out that this setup makes the inputs active high, so in a dual mod setup this will need to be inverted
@Gummo had to recode one on the fly at SCR.

Thank you for info!

[douglavras]

Hi all! I managed to make it work with my Arduino using this code:

Spoiler

I tried your NAND circuit, I found that it only worked up until a point (unless I put it together wrong). Namely; the second input would take priority over the second, but once I released the first it would neutral out (on hitbox ssf4ae 2012).

I also found that Nerrage’s arduino code (non-c style one) didn’t work on the nano that I bought. I slagged through it though and figured out how to make it work with interupts. Here is the snip:

 int left_input = 2;
int right_input = 3;
int right_output = 12;
int left_output = 11;
 
volatile boolean b = false;
 
void setup()
{
 
pinMode(left_input, INPUT);
pinMode(right_input, INPUT);
pinMode(left_output, OUTPUT);
pinMode(right_output, OUTPUT);
 
attachInterrupt(0, left, CHANGE);
attachInterrupt(1, right, CHANGE);
}
 
void left(){
b = true;
}
 
void right(){
b= true;
}
 
 
void loop()
{
 
digitalWrite(left_input, HIGH);
digitalWrite(right_input, HIGH);
digitalWrite(left_output, HIGH);
digitalWrite(right_output, HIGH);
b=false;
 
detachInterrupt(0);
while(digitalRead(left_input)==LOW && b==false)
{
digitalWrite(left_output, LOW);
}
attachInterrupt(0, left, CHANGE);
 
digitalWrite(left_input, HIGH);
digitalWrite(right_input, HIGH);
digitalWrite(left_output, HIGH);
digitalWrite(right_output, HIGH);
b=false;
 
detachInterrupt(1);
while(digitalRead(right_input)==LOW && b==false)
{
digitalWrite(right_output, LOW);
}
attachInterrupt(1, right, CHANGE);
 
}

Hope this helps other people out, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask

Plagman’s code from the post above didn’t work for me.

Spoiler

Hi guys,

If you have a HitBox or any Cthulhu-based custom fightstick, you can use these resources I put together to quickly and easily mod the SOCD behavior you’re after into them:

Video guide:
[media=youtube]IMHT50OgvOQ[/media]

Text guide, with links to resources:
http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/HOWTO.txt

Firmware:
http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/firmware_uno.c

Picture guide:

http://plagman.net/stuff/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd_mod/cthulhu_asynchronous_socd.png

Hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks!

I realized that the working code sends signal to both outputs (left and right) from the Arduino to the PCB even when you are not pressing anything. This means that on a “regular” SOCD, left+right would cancel each other resulting in neutral with this output from Arduino. Then, after a pushbutton press on the Arduino input, one of each would be negated and result in a asynchronous SOCD.

Thing is: my PCB does not have a horizontal SOCD cleaner. When I plug the output of arduino into the PCB, left always prevails. So this code would never work on a PCB that doesn’t have a “default” SOCD cleaner.

I know nothing about coding, but it might need just some tweaking to make it work. The arduino must not send any output, unless there’s a button press. If that tweaked code works, than we would have a arduino SOCD cleaner with asynchronous SOCD, no matter what PCB you use.

Can someone give it a try, please?

Thx in advance.

PS: Yes, I know there’s a guide here, but wouldn’t it be nice to make it work with only one simple component that requires no soldering and can be easily found anywhere in the world?

[glac81]

Thanks for the circuit schematics Rufus, but after I simulate this on Circuit Maker, the behaviour stated by ddosmonkey was reproduced. After studying it, i have got the problem: one latch must also be reseted when the other direction is pushed alone. So the set logic for A is A’ (not A) and the reset logic for A is (A’B)'. So, the modified circuit is like the image below:

But I still have some questions about wiring this to a PCB. Mine is a Hori FC4 common ground one. I have measured the tension of the open button and it is about 3.3V. The output of this SOCD circuit is somewhere between 4.5V to 5V. Is it safe to connect this output to my hori PCB? Do I need to use an opto coupler to isolate the circuits?

Thanks,

Glac.