How to remove whatever the fuck this is off a TE casing

[ed1371]

then move on to sanding if needed… not coarse of course but high grit… 1500 at the lowest.
once down

Glad the eraser worked for you… another one of my secrets out in the wild.

Quoting MYSELF… that’s a first! OK once you have used the eraser… I would move on to lightly wet sanding. TBH I would probably use 2k and 3k and then use this other little secret of mine: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154

And folks doubted the powah of the erasah…

Its not like I just make this stuff up here… I am out there getting dirty (or at least paint and stuff).

[Pablo_the_Mex]

Uhh you could just buy a replacement panel. The other stuff can be saved. I am impressed a magic eraser did such a good job. I only use those to clean my shoes lol.

[FreedomGundam]

Did the magic eraser remove the tampographed “Start”, “Select” and “Headphone jack” markings as well?

Did the magic eraser remove the tampographed “Start”, “Select” and “Headphone jack” markings as well?

I haven’t tried, but that area is thankfully unscathed so I won’t need to attempt it. I’m willing to bet it would though, given the nature of what I’ve witnessed so far.

Edit: Actually, I’ll get back to you tonight on this. The headphone text is part of the trashed area, so I’ll find out.

Cool. I look forward to the results.
Mainly asking because I have an SE casing where I want to remove the Start/Select/Headphones markings, and I want to affect the underlying plastic finish as little as possible (obviously). Figured I’d see if you had to try first since there’s other gunk that needs to be cleaned off anyways.

[NENDO]

Man… You should never use acetone on abs. Guess you figured that out now. Really you’re lucky it isn’t worse.

[Darksakul]

Uhh you could just buy a replacement panel. The other stuff can be saved. I am impressed a magic eraser did such a good job. I only use those to clean my shoes lol.

Who still sells metal panels?

[FreedomGundam]

Uhh you could just buy a replacement panel. The other stuff can be saved. I am impressed a magic eraser did such a good job. I only use those to clean my shoes lol.

Who still sells metal panels?

I don’t think anyone sells custom metal panels for the TE anymore.
On the flipside, in theory, there should be plenty of people with an old stock TE panel that they’ve replaced with either a custom one (from B-Boy Tekken, blklighting21, or even Mad Catz’ own Noir or MK panels); maybe somewhere who did that would be willing to sell their old one?

As an alternative, there’s always Art’s replacement panels from Tek-Innovations.

[Darksakul]

Uhh you could just buy a replacement panel. The other stuff can be saved. I am impressed a magic eraser did such a good job. I only use those to clean my shoes lol.

Who still sells metal panels?

I don’t think anyone sells custom metal panels for the TE anymore.
On the flipside, in theory, there should be plenty of people with an old stock TE panel that they’ve replaced with either a custom one (from B-Boy Tekken, blklighting21, or even Mad Catz’ own Noir or MK panels); maybe somewhere who did that would be willing to sell their old one?

As an alternative, there’s always Art’s replacement panels from Tek-Innovations.

Thats great for the TE, but not every situation is going to have metal panels available.

[FreedomGundam]

Uhh you could just buy a replacement panel. The other stuff can be saved. I am impressed a magic eraser did such a good job. I only use those to clean my shoes lol.

Who still sells metal panels?

I don’t think anyone sells custom metal panels for the TE anymore.
On the flipside, in theory, there should be plenty of people with an old stock TE panel that they’ve replaced with either a custom one (from B-Boy Tekken, blklighting21, or even Mad Catz’ own Noir or MK panels); maybe somewhere who did that would be willing to sell their old one?

As an alternative, there’s always Art’s replacement panels from Tek-Innovations.

Thats great for the TE, but not every situation is going to have metal panels available.

Oh definitely, no arguments there.

But since this thread has RageousX cleaning up an old TE, I thought that was where this conversation was going?

[Darksakul]

Uhh you could just buy a replacement panel. The other stuff can be saved. I am impressed a magic eraser did such a good job. I only use those to clean my shoes lol.

Who still sells metal panels?

I don’t think anyone sells custom metal panels for the TE anymore.
On the flipside, in theory, there should be plenty of people with an old stock TE panel that they’ve replaced with either a custom one (from B-Boy Tekken, blklighting21, or even Mad Catz’ own Noir or MK panels); maybe somewhere who did that would be willing to sell their old one?

As an alternative, there’s always Art’s replacement panels from Tek-Innovations.

Thats great for the TE, but not every situation is going to have metal panels available.

Oh definitely, no arguments there.

But since this thread has RageousX cleaning up an old TE, I thought that was where this conversation was going?

Well it’s RageousX restoring a battered TE, but I sure that there people who going to stumble upon this thread for their own sticks and not have the luxury of replacement panels.
Like a old Namco or Agetec beatten to near death by another Lil Bobby Xbox.

[d3v]

Just sand that thing down as flat as you can then cover it up with full panel acrylic.

[Kempo]

Mainly asking because I have an SE casing where I want to remove the Start/Select/Headphones markings, and I want to affect the underlying plastic finish as little as possible (obviously). Figured I’d see if you had to try first since there’s other gunk that needs to be cleaned off anyways.

http://www.bigwipes.com

We have these at work. I grabbed some to clean up a grimy eBay NES and the 30 year old logo came off of the door like it was wet paint.

[aszyd]

For the metal panel, I would just soak it in acetone. It should eat through the paint very quickly and make it so you can just wipe it off. You could always put a coat of primer on, after cleaning, to prevent it from corrosion. Then, like the others have said, new plexi and some artwork.

[ed1371]

Please update @RageousX !

We get sidetracked easily if you can’t tell.

[Xvideos]

Holy shit, a TE for 6 bucks? What a crazy deal, does the PCB still work? I never find good shit like this at my thrift store. They always sell overpriced garbage.

[RageousX]

Holy shit, a TE for 6 bucks? What a crazy deal, does the PCB still work? I never find good shit like this at my thrift store. They always sell overpriced garbage.

Didn’t get a chance to test the PCB before I tore it out, but all signs point to it being functional. If it doesn’t work later, I’ll just throw a spare PS360+ into it. Really hoping it does though, because a TE Kitty would be a much more elegant solution.

I had to work late last night and didn’t get a chance to hit the project, so tonight it’s guaranteed more pics and updates. Basically the gameplan so far:

1. Order 2000/3000 grit sandpaper + @ed1371’s polishing compound off Amazon today. Get it Friday.
2. Wipe down the mid panel with Magic Eraser. Should be trivial.
3. Dismantle turbo panel from PCB and very carefully Magic Eraser that. Really hoping the turbo button comes out alright.
4. Try Magic Eraser on the top panel. If not, I’ll soak it in the strong stuff and scrape it off.

Like you guys discussed, I looked into the availability of TE panels and it’s really not what it used to be. At this point people are mostly gutting existing sticks for parts and not very many are being made (I think ArcadeForge.net is the only place that actually has metal panels in stock). Tek Innovations sells great plexi, but they don’t deal with metal panels. This was going to be problematic for me if my buddy ended up wanting a Noir panel (I genuinely expected that to be the case), but he compared the layouts and said he’d probably just prefer the Vewlix, so I’m much better off just cleaning up Bobby Xbox’s paint-riddled version than dropping unnecessary money on an unmolested panel. It doesn’t matter what the metal looks like when it’s done, only that it’s there for stability. This is most definitely getting art + plexi from Tek eventually (going with a full-panel TE-S style spread), so my concern is mostly just making sure the metal is clean and functional.

[ed1371]

1. Order 2000/3000 grit sandpaper + @ed1371’s polishing compound off Amazon today. Get it Friday.
2. Wipe down the mid panel with Magic Eraser. Should be trivial.
3. Dismantle turbo panel from PCB and very carefully Magic Eraser that. Really hoping the turbo button comes out alright.
4. Try Magic Eraser on the top panel. If not, I’ll soak it in the strong stuff and scrape it off.

Like you guys discussed, I looked into the availability of TE panels and it’s really not what it used to be. At this point people are mostly gutting existing sticks for parts and not very many are being made (I think ArcadeForge.net is the only place that actually has metal panels in stock). Tek Innovations sells great plexi, but they don’t deal with metal panels. This was going to be problematic for me if my buddy ended up wanting a Noir panel (I genuinely expected that to be the case), but he compared the layouts and said he’d probably just prefer the Vewlix, so I’m much better off just cleaning up Bobby Xbox’s paint-riddled version than dropping unnecessary money on an unmolested panel. It doesn’t matter what the metal looks like when it’s done, only that it’s there for stability. This is most definitely getting art + plexi from Tek eventually (going with a full-panel TE-S style spread), so my concern is mostly just making sure the metal is clean and functional.

If I were you, here is what I would do:

Once the bare metal is exposed you are in a race to stop it from rust, have some metal primer ready (its cheap)

Magic eraser it down to metal, then score/sand the metal with 320 grit (important… or it may not adhere properly!)
Wipe down with a degreaser/lint free cloth… 50/50 water/alcohol has worked fine for me

you will see its dry before your eyes.

Then prime it.

BTW that button will clean up with the eraser. they are just plastic. You might want to use polish after to get it nice and clear.

[RageousX]

Status update:

Took a loooooong time carefully scrubbing the top panel of the casing. We’ll start with this:

Did the magic eraser remove the tampographed “Start”, “Select” and “Headphone jack” markings as well?

Yes, but it’s very stubborn. Here’s what it looked like before I started:

http://i.imgur.com/70Hq7xf.jpg

Here’s after a couple minutes of Magic Eraser:

http://i.imgur.com/3BW3dz9.jpg

Clearly it’s on there enough that I was able to scrub off Bobby Xbox’s paint with the wording still intact. You can see it starting to smear a little though. Let’s keep going…

http://i.imgur.com/uBYmrCd.jpg

Almost there…

http://i.imgur.com/kxvHhnG.jpg

So yes, it works. Just be persistent.

Final shots of the two pieces from the main casing after scrubbing and rinsing:

http://i.imgur.com/9d3h43Q.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WU7Rv3m.jpg

I missed a couple light spots that were impossible to see from all the running water and smeared paint remains, so I may go back and hit this again… but most of it’s all disappearing under a full TE-S plexi so I’m gradually running out of fucks. The important thing is that most of the ridiculous crap is gone and it’s looking pretty fucking marvelous if I do say so myself.

Turbo panel next.

[RageousX]

Turbo panel cleaned up and drying off! Hey @Feargus001100, my princess better not be in another fucking castle.

http://i.imgur.com/vBf2ZX4.jpg

[FreedomGundam]

Thanks for the update, especially in regards to the tampo markings.
I tried very briefly on my SE casing (maybe 30-60 seconds?) and I didn’t see any indication of the “Headphone jack” marking coming off, so I just left it at that for now. Maybe I’ll go back to it later.

[Feargus001100]

Turbo panel cleaned up and drying off! Hey @Feargus001100, my princess better not be in another fucking castle.

http://i.imgur.com/vBf2ZX4.jpg

Original Eight Approved!