Nice guide but you should smooth it before applying the clear.
You see in this pic:
You should keep sanding until there are no shiny spots and then apply another coat of base. Then sand the new coat with some 1000 grit. If it’s smooth there then shoot some clear on. After the clear has cured then use 1500 or 2000 and wet sand it. After that you can use a fine rubbing compound and then swirl remover. It’s just a more durable finish that way.
Yeah I said in the tutorial that it would be better if there we no spots left, but for the reasons I stated I decided to not try that. Also using 1000 grit or anything higher is only for finish sanding before buffing. There is no reason to use it before that if another coat of color or clear will be going on.
I’m not sure how well whatever product you have will work. I haven’t tried a lot of the polishing compounds out there. It might be fine with that, but then you still need a swirl remover.
I know this may sound suicidal but, should i dremel holes for Arcade parts before or AFTER the paint job? but then again, i should just mark off the areas im going to drop artwork on shouldnt i?
But if i just wanted a solid stick with no art work however, the question is… before or after?
I wonder if I can do this to my vinyl dye project on my SE. Does clearcoat have any ill problems with vinyl dye? Would be sick to have a shiny finish on the SE. 
from my experience rustoleum vinyl and fabric acts mostly just like any other paint, except better
By the way, would you hit rounded corners the same way with the spackler or spray it over like the rest of the MDF? or do it in seperate sessions? i do want to get the whoel peice looking the exact samr though. Just asking questions before i start with anything.
Ok so my primer is done and sanded… the only thing I’m unsure of is the primer seemed really dusty and when I sanded it sanded SO easily. In like 10 minutes it was totally smooth and it cut through on the edges a tiny bit… are these things normal? should I now move on to colour or do another coat of primer since it cut through to the wood a tiny bit?
What grit of sandpaper were you using?
If its totally smooth, you’re good to go. But I’d suggest another coat because you cut through to the wood. If it weren’t MDF, you MIGHT be ok, but I’d do the 2nd primer coat anyways.
Yes im doubling up on a questioned ask, because for one i am an idiot. yes, common sense i do lack. SO.
I know the guide shows how to, but i need details on how i should spray over the case.
My case has rounded off edges and alot of surface area to cover, It’s a HAPP case after all, and i need to know before hand if i should try to cover all the sides in one sweep or work the sides one by one or sets?
It’s pine not MDF. also I used 400
You have to seal any cut edges of MDF, including rounded corners. Not sure what you mean about doing the corners in seperate sessions.
There’s no reason to work in sets. Just spray the whole case. You need to wait a few minutes in between coats anyways. So by the time you get back to the first side you sprayed it will be ready for it’s next coat.
Primer is designed to be sanded very easily. Definitely put on another coat. Like Upas alluded to bare MDF and paint don’t get along well.
interesting maybe i dont have to buy expensive wood any more, nice finish! great job!
Excellent, i didnt want to start anything till i had everything cleared up, its hard being far away from any hobby shops/Home Depot (within walking distance) so its difficult to ask any technical questions. Thanks again.
EDIT: For color coat.
I know black is whats shown here but what are the possibilities and results of other colors polished to a mirror finish?
I know for White it makes imperfections show up like a sore thumb, but if possible id like to make a case in white. heh
On a second note, anyone know what gray/blue/or red mirror finish would look like or a generalization? Wood is different from plastic , so im asking those who might know…
Digital, great tutorial ^^
I just have one question though which I’ve been wondering. On the clear coat stage, would it be wise to apply the first clear coat, sand it down with 600, apply another clear coat, sand it down with 1000 grit?
Or would going your method; clear coat, sand 600, sand 1000, sand higher if you have them?
Would you know the difference on both method?
Btw, im not sure if you mentioned it, but how long do you wait before sanding the clear coat? When it cures or after a few days?
Great tutorial Digital717. I found this last week and now I’m repainting some of my boxes.
I made one box that had no artwork. I cut my holes out before I painted. But you could realistically cut out after as well as long as you are positive you can get a pretty clean cut. I wouldn’t want to risk having to start over after painting as that part takes the longest for me. The buttons will cover it up a little, but if you have a cutting mistake after you paint, you gotta cut out a new panel and repaint it again.
1000 isn’t for that type of sanding. 1000 is for scratch removal from previous sandings only.
I do it after a few days. The longer the better, but a few days is enough in my experience.
Yo great tutorial man!
I screwed up my first case painting job because I didnt’ sand enough on the spackle/primer levels. I have bumps in the shape of europe on my box now!
I’ll probably sell this one for real cheap and try another 
Moral: Sand A LOT at the beginning, because it’ll make it easier down the line.