k, i want to make sure before i start, is this can of “glidden gripper white primer/sealer” ok? how about these spray cans of “rust-oleum specialty lacquer” for black & clear coats?
The black lacquer and clearcoat are the EXACT thing I used on mine, so you’re good on that. My only worry on that primer is it looks like it needs to be brushed/rolled on. If you haven’t bought it yet, grab some rustoleum primer, which will be just fine. If you already bought the paint, I recommend using a foam roller and danding it down very well.
thanks! i’ve since returned the brush-on primer and got 2 cans of the rustoleum filler primer (tho autozone only had it in red). if i need more primer, i’ll probably go to another autozone so i can get it in grey.
One can should do the trick. Since you’re painting it black the red primer really shouldn’t matter
alright! 
so i applied the first layer of primer. i think i missed filling some edges w/wood filler, as it seems there’s some darkening around the rounded edges (which started out pretty rough no matter how much i sanded). i’ll post pics when i get to the camera (likely after work)
after i sand this first layer, it’s ok to apply wood filler on the edges that seem roughed up before putting second layer of primer, right?
also, since i’m working on two cases simultaneously (one happ, one sanwa, both DIY mdf cases ordered from qcfgaming) it turns out i NEED two cans of primer, as the first layer pretty much finished off an entire can on both cases. i have 4 cans of black and 2 cans of clear waiting for second primer layer to be applied & dried+sanded.
Definitely post the pics. Not too sure what that ‘darkening’ means. The biggest reason to seal the edges is so the paint doesn’t soak into the MDF like a sponge. You can add more if you need it, but make sure you sand it as smooth and level to the original surface as you can. If not, it WILL show once you hit it with the black, if it doesn’t show with the primer to begin with.
thank you for this guide!
took me a little over 3 weeks to do this due to a busy schedule and horrible weather but i am very pleased with the final outcome. heres a shot of the results.
now just waiting a month before i can wax it.
that white looks NICE. awesome job on that. i’m still on waiting for the second color coat to dry b4 wetsanding & clear coat.
Hey, thanks for this tutorial. Here’s my result, the redrum case 
:
it was fun, here’re some more pics
I’ve used wetsanding up to 2000er grit
bencao: Gorgeous finish, and the joints don’t show at all. Very well done !
Cross post from the QCFGaming thread, but this guide really helped out
New Happ/iL built using http://qcfgaming.com case, a lot of sanding, a lot of coats of high gloss paints and this guide
It still needs some more sanding & coats, but I can’t do any more painting until it warms up outside. Unfortunately I didn’t capture any pics after sealing with vinyl spackling or after priming.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4Bufb8FrID0/SyWIkcKuYFI/AAAAAAAAA8A/UWzuGaHWGL4/s800/DSC01829.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4Bufb8FrID0/SyWKVPGY0uI/AAAAAAAAA9w/UtvYDoiRS9I/s800/DSC01840.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4Bufb8FrID0/SyWKYOY0UNI/AAAAAAAAA-M/NFSqZNipGOc/s800/DSC01847.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4Bufb8FrID0/SyWKYwhklkI/AAAAAAAAA-U/IO74UDjbbjQ/s800/DSC01849.JPG
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alright! i’ve finally wetsanded the clear coat and applied rubbing compound & swirl remover to the happ box. since that took me so long today (i started at ~5:30p or so and ended at ~9:30p), i’ll do the sanwa box later this wk.
i promise i will have pics!
Really nice guide man, very informative. In my experience, nothing works as well as 3M perfect it. I would highly recommend it to everyone.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-perfect-it-3000-extra-cut-rubbing-compound-p-16565.aspx
Kinda expensive, but well worth it!
So do you use Turtlewax or Meguiar’s Nexgen wax to keep the shine? Haha, j/k. Godlike tutorial. Thanks.
I painted my stick with a few coats of primer and about 3 coats of color…
but how do i get it not to smell like paint?
Whenever I take it to tournaments it reaks of paint, lol
(cross-posted on the qcfgaming.com thread) finally posted my blog entry abt my mirror finish custom joystick cases!
Hey guys,
Need some advise…
The CP I’m knocking up in MDF will be routed underneath to make it thin enough to mount the buttons:-
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5153/explanation.jpg
(excuse the 30 second MS Paint drawing)
My problem is, I intend to paint the underneath and make the wiring pretty etc, but once the MDF is routed surely it’ll need something to stop it from being porus before I apply any paint.
Wood filler and the like aren’t really appropriate for an area this big.
I don’t need the underside of the CP to be ‘mirror finished’ like the outside of the box will be, so do you reckon a decent high solids primer and a plasticoat type of paint might do the trick without the wood swelling and absorbing it all??
I will do a tested on a scrap routed piece of MDF at some point anyway, but just thinking out loud while I’m on the forums and nowhere near the garage…
Cheers
hi could you send me a link to your controller worklog?
regards daniel.
sorry was directed at digital.
hey mate seal any mdf before painting with an appropriate mdf sealer (alternatively you can use a pva/water solution) this will help prevent the mdf from soaking the primer in too much.